Anybody melt an M6 lexan lens?

[Snow]

I recently acquired an M6 Magnumlight with the older flat bezel and lexan lens. I ordered a FM 3x17670 holder and a WA1185 to run in it, along with the LF HO-M6R. I am a bit worried about melting the lens with the high powered bulbs. Does anybody have insight on this?

 

[Illum]

gee...the older ones were lexan?!
I'm currenting running the exact setup, M6 Magnumlight serial:004110 running on 17670s and a 1185 lamp...for many cycles now with no specific issues...:)

I think I'm going to careful with mine from now on:thumbsup:
I can't seem to tell the difference between lexan, polycarbonate, and pyrex...and I don't know of any onsite identification. I'm guessing you can tell by density or how fast it shatters but that requires a little bit of disassembly

 

[Snow]

I think you can tell just by tapping on it with your fingertip whether it is pyrex or lexan. Lexan has a bit of give to it and pyrex feels solid like glass.

 

[Superdave]

Would Surefire replace the head if the lexan window melted?

I have a Z3 with the old style head as well, i never run it very long because i've heard the window will melt. lol

 

[Timothybil]

Not an M6, but I have bubbled the Lexan on a G2 when it got turned on in my holster and I didn't realize it. Surefire replaced it the first time. By the time it happened again I knew about FlashlightLens and just got a UCL lens to replace it. I've got a pre-2005 G2, so the bexel retaining ring just screwed out nice and easy.

 

[Illum]

Would Surefire replace the head if the lexan window melted?

I have a Z3 with the old style head as well, i never run it very long because i've heard the window will melt. lol

Although surefire would not guarantee their warranty if a foreign lamp detonated in the bezel I don't think they will do the same with the glass, especially considering there are lexan melting incidents in the past using their own lamps, primarily the G or the P series

 

[hamheart]

my dad melted his M4's lens :shakehead it just bulged out though, at least it still works perfectly. :party::D

P.S. no mods were done to it but i am pretty sure it had fresh batteries when it was first turned on, and the batteries were dead when he found it. :rolleyes::mad::devil:

 

[gallagho]

Hi Snow,

I have that exact setup, an old M6 with FM 3x17670 holder and a WA1185

I have had no problems, however I must say I have not run it from full battery charge to an observed drop in brightness.

Becuase this setup is not very battery freindly I tend to use it in short burst anyway. Having said that I did have one 'burst' of ~5min with no ill effects.

If your intended use is for extended duration maybe a WA1111 setup might be more useful?

Owen

 

[Illum]

well, at 3.3 amps the 1185 will draw about 2C from 17670s assuming yours are AW protected 1600mah cells. which is about the peak designed draw before tripping the circuit.

I believe AW said something about newer versions having the capability of discharging at 2.5C but I have no way to testing this.

Generally its brutal on the 17670s, but I have ran it until there is an observed brightness decrease and so far the cells have lasted me.

the LF-HO-M6R draws about 2.1 amps, if your care about battery longevity I'd say stick with the HO-M6R. it has a more rounder beamshape but unlike the WA1185 or the surefire MN lamps, it will start accumulating tungsten on the envelope within a relatively short time. :ohgeez: