CaNo
Flashlight Enthusiast
Upper right hand side...
The Quark lights thread! (Part 5)
- Thread starter Badbeams3
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
- Status
Perfect! Just the finish on the titaniums is exactly what I was hoping for!
As far as the "new surface treatment" on the EZ-AAA, looks like a heavy bead blast??? I think I will prefer more aggressive knurling.
Last edited:
Marduke
Flashaholic
They are talking about the 4Sevens AAA light, NOT an EZ-AAA (which does not exist yet).
My bad, you're absolutely right. I forgot where my EZ's came from for a moment! (I bought them from 4-7's, but he didn't build them.}
'Been a long day, and I've got to roast a batch of coffee tonight before I call it a day!
Last edited:
pobox1475
Enlightened
What tint is the warm versions? 5A, 5B, WH, etc...
Marduke
Flashaholic
Have you read the specs on the product page??
So, back to the Quarks... They are fast becoming my all around favorite EDC.
All of the Quarks I have use the neutral tint Q3 emitter, except for one. The CRI of the Q3-5A is so much better to my eye, that even though the XPE-R2 is slightly brighter, resolution with the Q3-5A is better and the beam profile is near ideal. I hope the QT's on order, are even better!:thumbsup:
All of the Quarks I have use the neutral tint Q3 emitter, except for one. The CRI of the Q3-5A is so much better to my eye, that even though the XPE-R2 is slightly brighter, resolution with the Q3-5A is better and the beam profile is near ideal. I hope the QT's on order, are even better!:thumbsup:
DHart
Flashlight Enthusiast
Totally agree on the Q3 5A. A slightly marginal hit on absolute brightness = much better color rendition and more beautiful, natural appearance. Make mine a 123x2, Q3 5A emitter, regular UI head, 17670 cell, and tactical tailpiece. Or for carry a AA size version with the same selected options, except 14500 in place of the 17670.
pobox1475
Enlightened
Yes. Missed the 5A part. Now I know ty?
DHart
Flashlight Enthusiast
The head with permaclip might go on the AA body. I'm not sure. My 123 body is the non-clip tube, which I prefer.
Honestly, I much prefer no clips on all of my Quarks. Just have no need for clips myself.
If you buy the AA instead and add-on a 123 body and a tactical tailcap, you can use the clip on the AA, or not, as you wish, or put the AA head on the 123 body without clip for smallest, drop it in the pocket, form factor. The AA light has the most utility anyway for powering options. You can drive it with a 14500 li-ion rechargeable, NiMH rechargeable, L91 lithium primary, or plain old alkaline if that's all you've got.
Use the regular tailcap for tailstanding or use the tactical tailcap when you want momentary function. And no need to buy the tactical head if you just want the tactical tailcap... buy the tactical tailcap as an add-on part to a non-tactical Quark if you want immediate access to all the levels and modes. The downside to the Tactical head is you only have access to two levels without re-programming, which I find to be bothersome. Having both, I prefer the regular head to the tactical head. But I do like the tactical tailcap. Of course, YMMV.
Last edited:
Yes, it will work. I tried it out of curiosity myself.
Right...the head is not "wobbly"...the o-rings make it feel nice and tight.
But...the electrical contact of the threads is variable. Isn't that just how machine threads work? They need some clearance so they can turn.
To see for yourself, try these two simple tests:
Test 1: Unscrew the head 1/4 turn. Turn the light on and click to High mode. Grab the head and tail, and gently pull them apart or push them together. Does the light flicker? If not, unscrew the head a tiny bit more and try again. It's luck of the draw, but I bet it only takes 1 or 2 tries before you see it flicker on High.
Test 2: Unscrew the head just past the o-ring. Or if you prefer, remove the oring and screw the head back on most of the way. Push/pull on the head. With the o-ring out of the way, can you feel the tiny movement of the threads?
FYI, I have two new Quark heads, nice and clean. The tactical one has a light application of triflow on the threads and o-ring, because I expected to rotate it a bunch of times to program it. The regular one was cleaned with a cotton swab but not yet lubed...it has only been loosened and tighted about a dozen times so far. :thumbsup:
Am I off base here? Does anyone see this flicker when they push/pull on the head?
It's not a big deal...I plan to just use the bezel-tightened modes...but I am curious if others see the same issue with this design.
-Jeff
I have it as well. If I hold it like a mechanical pencil to click out some more lead and push down on the head of the Quark lightly it will change modes and it takes very little pressure to do it. I cleaned the threads and same issue. I wonder if replacing the tube would fix it hoping for larger threads on it or if it is the head threads?!? If you find anything out let us know please.
Cheers
I am looking for some Quark owners and I think this thread is the right one lovecpf
I want to order a Quark. But I have still some unsolved questions:
I want to order a Quark. But I have still some unsolved questions:
- What is the difference between a tactical and a non tactical (normal) version?
- I want the AA model. It looks really nice and is very small with a lot of power as EDC. There are any reasons to choose an other Quark? (I hope not)
- Is there still a chance to order a Ti version? I love that...really...
- Where is the best shop to order a Quark? There are any special conditions for CPF members?
- I want to use the AA with 14500. Protected or not protected version?
- Is there a special replacement ring that a 14500 will fit into QAA?
PeaceOfMind
Enlightened
Normal version lets you cycle through all light levels using a "soft click". The tactical version allows you to program in a light level for when the head is tightened and a light level for when the head is loosened (two selectable modes). The product details page explains these UI details well. Tactical version has a forward clicky and does not tailstand. Regular version has a reverse clicky and does tailstand.
I love my AA, but this is all a matter of battery preference and size preference. The Quarks are all fine choices.
I think all of the AA Ti versions are gone by now. One might show up on the marketplace when they're delivered if you keep your eyes out...
Get it straight from 4sevens.com. Use CPF8 discount code.
Protected, no question. Get a quality cell. AW.
Yes, 4Sevens has mentioned one that is now available. Newer Quarks would have this by default I would think. I have one on the way to me right now courtesy of 4Sevens. I'll let you know how it works when I get it. Even without this ring I can get an AW 14500 to fit, but its a bit too tight. Some 14500 cells are shorter and will have no issue regardless.
- What is the difference between a tactical and a non tactical (normal) version?
- I want the AA model. It looks really nice and is very small with a lot of power as EDC. There are any reasons to choose an other Quark? (I hope not)
you can lego the quark for 1aa,2aa, 1 cr123 the head can work for those configurations , BUT the 2xCR123 can not this head is separate from the other
- Is there still a chance to order a Ti version? I love that...really...
- Where is the best shop to order a Quark? There are any special conditions for CPF members?
- I want to use the AA with 14500. Protected or not protected version?
- Is there a special replacement ring that a 14500 will fit into QAA?
Last edited:
Thx a lot for the information. :thumbsup:
Now I know the tactical programming. But how can I switch to other modes with the normal version? I have to press several time the power button to reach the wanted mode? And if I switch off the flashlight, then the actual mode is saved? :thinking:
Now I know the tactical programming. But how can I switch to other modes with the normal version? I have to press several time the power button to reach the wanted mode? And if I switch off the flashlight, then the actual mode is saved? :thinking:
regular version is click on and it starts out on low low..then you just soft tap/press ..NOT a full click ...to go to next level, once you have it in hand you will understand easily and how well it works...it works exactly like a fenix so you might wanna search some reviews on youtube for quarks or fenix lights L1D,L2D P2D and some may show how it operates......quark does not have a memory it always starts on low low in general mode "head loose" or max output in turbo mode "head tight"
only memory it has is short term ..example, i turn on the light and select medium output then i tighten the head for max turbo ..when i loosen head back to general mode it will go back to medium which was the one i selected , but once i turn off the light it starts over to low low
only memory it has is short term ..example, i turn on the light and select medium output then i tighten the head for max turbo ..when i loosen head back to general mode it will go back to medium which was the one i selected , but once i turn off the light it starts over to low low
Last edited:
uplite
Enlightened
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2009
- Messages
- 307
FYI, the light has to be turned off for about 2 seconds before it will "reset" to the default mode (moon or max) when turned on.
If you turn it off and on quickly, it still "remembers" the last mode, and will just switch to the next mode in the sequence.
It doesn't matter whether you use a momentary press, or full-off/full-on clicking. Either way, you are turning the light off momentarily. Do it fast to switch modes, or slowly to reset to default.
-Jeff
If you turn it off and on quickly, it still "remembers" the last mode, and will just switch to the next mode in the sequence.
It doesn't matter whether you use a momentary press, or full-off/full-on clicking. Either way, you are turning the light off momentarily. Do it fast to switch modes, or slowly to reset to default.
-Jeff
My experience is that you have to wait at least 4 seconds to prevent it from advancing to the next mode on power-up.
Is my QAAw not typical?
--flatline
- Status
