The Quark lights thread! (Part 5)

[Twinkle-Plank]

Can a quark AA use a 14500?

 

[Norm]

Can a quark AA use a 14500?

Yes

 

[HKJ]

Can a quark AA use a 14500?

Yes, and it will have the same brightness as a Quark CR123.

 

[DHart]

Can a quark AA use a 14500?

Not only can it, but I think li-ions are the very best way to power the Quarks. Keep in mind that with a li-ion, you can start every day with a fully charged cell that also provides maximum output. You can (and should) top the cell off anywhere below full charge when you get a chance to do so.

With primaries (of any chemistry), you start with a fully charged cell only once and from then on you're running with a partially depleted cell every time... and when that cell dies, you have to toss (recycle) it and buy yet another one. Can you imagine how many batteries are discarded in the world every day? It's got to be an unbelievable number. Primaries have their place, but for me their place is as back-up/emergency/long-term storage type of thing.

NiMH is a decent option, because they are rechargeable. But you don't get the output you get with li-ions.

All of my Quarks are loaded with li-ions. 16340 in the 123, 14500 in the AA's, and 17670 in the 123x2s. And I couldn't be happier with the performance! Just be sure to learn and follow the do's and don'ts of charging and using li-ions and you'll be thrilled with the performance.

 

[uplite]

I would use 14500 cells in my QAA, if only the sequence of modes was programmable.

Right now I use nimh and lithium primaries in the QAA, so Max mode is throttled down to 350mA...runtime is much longer than a 14500...and the light does not get hot. :thumbsup:

I know, High mode is similar to this. But High mode only works in the jittery bezel-loosened position, and you have to click through 3 other modes to get to it.

Does anyone else find it funny that the Quark brochure/packaging shows an alkaline coppertop in the cutaway picture? :duh2: :laughing:

-Jeff

 

[Owen]

Does anyone else find it funny that the Quark brochure/packaging shows an alkaline coppertop in the cutaway picture? :duh2: :laughing:

Since they come with Duracell alkalines, not really.

 

[DHart]

But High mode only works in the jittery bezel-loosened position, and you have to click through 3 other modes to get to it.

Yeah... it sucks having to do all that clicking every time you want to get to high which is, arguably, a better general purpose level (nearly as bright as turbo but with much better runtime). And the tactical model is no solution as if you program the two settings to high and moon, you can't get to turbo. :scowl:

 

[uplite]

Yeah... it sucks having to do all that clicking every time you want to get to high which is, arguably, a better general purpose level (nearly as bright as turbo but with much better runtime). And the tactical model is no solution as if you program the two settings to high and moon, you can't get to turbo. :scowl:

Exactly. Neither head is ideal. That's why we need a head that lets us program the entire sequence of modes.

Actually, the clicking doesn't bother me so much. The bigger issue is the loose bezel. When I loosen the bezel to run in High or Max, it works about 2/3 of the time. The other times, I have to fiddle with it to get a solid contact between the threads. My tactical head has even gone into programming mode just from loosening the bezel. This is with new, clean threads. I figure the "bezel loosened" position is a bit of a gimmick to give us more modes to play with, but not practical for everyday use on High.

I'm not complaining, btw. I think the original quarks are a great first version, and pretty good value. These are just the parts that I think could be improved.

-Jeff

 

[adnj]

For the tactical, set it to turbo and low (or medium). You can always cover the lense to reduce output for a few moments. And programming only takes about 8 seconds.

I keep a tiny AAA light for reading and keyhole navigation.

 

[uplite]

Since they come with Duracell alkalines, not really.

OMG, they do, don't they? I tossed that cell into my alkalines bin so fast that I forgot it came with the light! :duh2:

It'd be swell if 4sevens could negotiate with energizer or whomever to include a lithium AA in the box. That makes more sense for these lights. And it would be great advertising for the batteries!

-Jeff

 

[bcwang]

The bigger issue is the loose bezel. When I loosen the bezel to run in High or Max, it works about 2/3 of the time. The other times, I have to fiddle with it to get a solid contact between the threads.

I think you need to clean and re-lube your threads and head contacts. I've always had 100% positive contact when switching between turbo and lower modes. I can switch it back and forth all day long and it will just simply work.

 

[bcwang]

It'd be swell if 4sevens could negotiate with energizer or whomever to include a lithium AA in the box. That makes more sense for these lights. And it would be great advertising for the batteries!

I don't think lithium AA's would be a good idea for this light. Previous discussion about them shows their poor suitability for high drain (>2.0 amp). My own testing shows in AA and AA-2 turbo at the voltage of lithium, the head pulls over 2 amp and would result in the protection circuit kicking in, not to mention the high temps the battery would generate.

Alkaline's aren't great either, but at least they are cheap to include.

 

[DHart]

For the tactical, set it to turbo and low (or medium). You can always cover the lense to reduce output for a few moments. And programming only takes about 8 seconds.

I keep a tiny AAA light for reading and keyhole navigation.

My tactical is set to turbo and low (not moon). And I use other lights for "moon" applications.

On regular models, "high" really should be quicker to access because it's arguably the best level for a bright light with good runtime. And if you turn the light on and off with any frequency (which I do) having to click up from moon every time does get to be a little tedious... so I just tend to use turbo and skip trying for long runtime.

The loose head issue mentioned is not common... I'd suggest cleaning and re-lubing and if that doesn't do it, ask 4Sevens for a replacement.

 

[wapkil]

I don't think lithium AA's would be a good idea for this light. Previous discussion about them shows their poor suitability for high drain (>2.0 amp). My own testing shows in AA and AA-2 turbo at the voltage of lithium, the head pulls over 2 amp and would result in the protection circuit kicking in, not to mention the high temps the battery would generate.

I haven't heard about a lithium battery with a protection circuit inside - there is usually only a PTC resistor. An L91 should work without problems around 2A, its voltage would drop to a NiMH level so there would be also no difference here. I don't know how much heat the Quark generates on Turbo - if too much, it could be the cause of the battery overheating.

I think that there may be no important gain in capacity when comparing at 2A an L91 and a high capacity (non-LSD) NiMH. There would be a difference in lower levels though.

 

[kwkarth]

Exactly. Neither head is ideal. That's why we need a head that lets us program the entire sequence of modes.

Actually, the clicking doesn't bother me so much. The bigger issue is the loose bezel. When I loosen the bezel to run in High or Max, it works about 2/3 of the time. The other times, I have to fiddle with it to get a solid contact between the threads. My tactical head has even gone into programming mode just from loosening the bezel. This is with new, clean threads. I figure the "bezel loosened" position is a bit of a gimmick to give us more modes to play with, but not practical for everyday use on High.

I'm not complaining, btw. I think the original quarks are a great first version, and pretty good value. These are just the parts that I think could be improved.

-Jeff

Jeff,
Is your O ring missing or damaged? I haven't tried removing any of my O rings to see how loose the threads are but with the O Rings in place there is no sense of loosness on either end of any of the 4 Quarks I have.

 

[Toohotruk]

Mine neither...with the head loosened, it's not wobbly in the least bit. :thinking:

 

[uplite]

Right...the head is not "wobbly"...the o-rings make it feel nice and tight.

But...the electrical contact of the threads is variable. Isn't that just how machine threads work? They need some clearance so they can turn.

To see for yourself, try these two simple tests:

Test 1: Unscrew the head 1/4 turn. Turn the light on and click to High mode. Grab the head and tail, and gently pull them apart or push them together. Does the light flicker? If not, unscrew the head a tiny bit more and try again. It's luck of the draw, but I bet it only takes 1 or 2 tries before you see it flicker on High.

Test 2: Unscrew the head just past the o-ring. Or if you prefer, remove the oring and screw the head back on most of the way. Push/pull on the head. With the o-ring out of the way, can you feel the tiny movement of the threads?

FYI, I have two new Quark heads, nice and clean. The tactical one has a light application of triflow on the threads and o-ring, because I expected to rotate it a bunch of times to program it. The regular one was cleaned with a cotton swab but not yet lubed...it has only been loosened and tighted about a dozen times so far. :thumbsup:

Am I off base here? Does anyone see this flicker when they push/pull on the head?

It's not a big deal...I plan to just use the bezel-tightened modes...but I am curious if others see the same issue with this design.

-Jeff

 

[tankahn]

I am using AW 17650 li-ion batteries for my !23x2 Quark. They are too snug making it difficult to engage dual modes. I have unprotected DLG 17650 li-ions which fits better but they would not turn on. The batteries work works on every other lights I have. Any possible reasons for that? I know unprotected li-ons are *bad* but have been careful in using them for a long time.

 

[tankahn]

I am using AW 17650 li-ion batteries for my !23x2 Quark. They are too snug making it difficult to engage dual modes. I have unprotected DLG 17650 li-ions which fits better but they would not turn on. The batteries work on every other lights I have. Any possible reasons for that? I know unprotected li-ons are *bad* but have been careful in using them for a long time.

 

[DHart]

Try backing off the tailcap just a bit... that might make just enough room for your 17670s t work.

I have two 123x2 lights, both running with AW black protected 17670s... fit is snug all the way around, but works perfectly.