KiwiMark
Flashlight Enthusiast
A while ago I picked up a 2nd hand Mag 3D for a good price, but didn't have an immediate use for it. I have 4 ROPs in 2D bodies and 1 ROP in a 6D as well as a 4D hotwire (64458 & 5 x IMR 26500) and an Elephant II.
But now my Alan B Programmable Regulated Drivers have arrived and I have put one in my 3D Maglite.
My build:
Starting point - Maglite 3D torch.
Modifications:
Removed plastic lens and replaced it with a Borafloat lens
Removed plastic lens and replaced it with an Aluminium OP reflector
Removed Maglite switch and replaced it with an Alan B Programmable Regulated Driver.
Installed an Osram 64430 bulb.
Inserted 3 x Kaidomain 32600 unprotected Li-ion cells.
Swapped the tailcap spring for a Kaidomain golden shorty spring.
Details:
The driver is computer programmable and is currently set to provide a maximum of 10V to the bulb. The driver will power off when the battery voltage drops below 9.8V at which time the batteries will not have much power left, but they will not be dangerously low in their voltage. This means that the bulb will briefly be direct driven at the end, but not for long and I would doubt that is would be noticeable. The medium output would be at 6.5V and the basic mode output at 5V, the minimum is set to 3V.
If I lockout the light (5 clicks) it can still be used in basic mode (click to turn on, click to turn off) - I only have it set to 5V so it is a little underdriven making it a bit yellow/orange but fairly safe for someone else to use.
If I hold the button down from off the torch comes on at minimum output which is 3V - this can be used to see, but is very orange. I wouldn't bother programming the minimum to any lower than this.
If I click 3 times it goes to medium (halfway between min and max) which is 6.5V - at this level the colour isn't bad and it is quite bright. This would be running at about 40 Watts. This isn't a bad level to use and would allow a reasonable run time.
If I double click it goes to maximum which is 10V - at this level the light is fairly white and VERY bright. Shining it at a white wall at close range makes it a bit hard on the eyes looking at the hotspot. Lux's measured amps at 10V with one of these bulbs is 7.7A which means this 35W bulb is running at 77 Watts.
Run time:
I estimate the batteries to hold about 55 Watt hours of power when fully charged. This means that on maximum output the run time would be somewhere close to 40 minutes, over 30 minutes at least. On the medium output it should run for more than an hour (80 minutes theoretically). Overall this seems pretty good considering the output I am getting.
Performance:
According to Lux's Destructive Incan Bulb Tests - the WA1111 outputs 96 Lux at 1M on 8 Volts (any more than 8V risks :poof:) and the WA1185 generates 117 Lux at 1M from 11.6V (Over 12V risks :poof:). The Osram 64430 that I am using produces 223 Lux at 1M when run at 10V and doesn't :poof: till 11V. So compared to a Mag11 or Mag85 I am getting a lot more light output with over double the Lux of a Mag11 and almost double that of the Mag85. I could use the torch at medium output and in theory the bulb would last for over 1000 hours, obviously running at maximum (10V) will severely shorten the life of the bulb and I might expect around 8 hours of bulb life at that level. I have 1 bulb in the torch and 6 spares - so I don't need to put another order through to svetila in any great hurry.
Negatives:
The KD reflector isn't all that great - the focus for this big bulb is not exactly pin-point. Obviously this torch would throw much better with a 2.5" or 3" throw master head from fivemega - but they aren't cheap and would make the torch look different. Currently the torch looks like any other Mag 3D unless you look into the head at the bulb. I might get a modamag MOP reflector with a .5" ream for a better beam and less gap around the bulb.
The other negative is the price - most of the build doesn't cost all that much, but the driver is a bit pricey at $107 with Kiu socket - unfortunately without that driver this torch would be hard to power from Li-ion cells - 2 cells is not that impressive and 3 cells is :poof: The only way to do it cheaper and have it still good would be to use the JimmyM regulated driver instead - more work but less cost.
Overall:
This torch is more a flooder than a thrower, but at maximum there are so many Lumens coming out the front it can throw its floody beam for a decent distance and light up an area like you wouldn't believe. The UI on Alan B's driver is really nice to use - from off you can click to either maximum or memory (depending on options chosen when programming) or hold for minimum or triple click for medium. From 'on' you can double click for max, triple click for medium or hold to ramp (release & hold again to ramp the other way). With low voltage cut off programmed in it is fairly safe to use unprotected Li-ions which is good for the KD cells because their protected cells struggle at 3.5A and immediately cut off above that (I can't use their protected D cells with the 3854-H bulb), also the unprotected cells are cheaper.
But now my Alan B Programmable Regulated Drivers have arrived and I have put one in my 3D Maglite.
My build:
Starting point - Maglite 3D torch.
Modifications:
Removed plastic lens and replaced it with a Borafloat lens
Removed plastic lens and replaced it with an Aluminium OP reflector
Removed Maglite switch and replaced it with an Alan B Programmable Regulated Driver.
Installed an Osram 64430 bulb.
Inserted 3 x Kaidomain 32600 unprotected Li-ion cells.
Swapped the tailcap spring for a Kaidomain golden shorty spring.
Details:
The driver is computer programmable and is currently set to provide a maximum of 10V to the bulb. The driver will power off when the battery voltage drops below 9.8V at which time the batteries will not have much power left, but they will not be dangerously low in their voltage. This means that the bulb will briefly be direct driven at the end, but not for long and I would doubt that is would be noticeable. The medium output would be at 6.5V and the basic mode output at 5V, the minimum is set to 3V.
If I lockout the light (5 clicks) it can still be used in basic mode (click to turn on, click to turn off) - I only have it set to 5V so it is a little underdriven making it a bit yellow/orange but fairly safe for someone else to use.
If I hold the button down from off the torch comes on at minimum output which is 3V - this can be used to see, but is very orange. I wouldn't bother programming the minimum to any lower than this.
If I click 3 times it goes to medium (halfway between min and max) which is 6.5V - at this level the colour isn't bad and it is quite bright. This would be running at about 40 Watts. This isn't a bad level to use and would allow a reasonable run time.
If I double click it goes to maximum which is 10V - at this level the light is fairly white and VERY bright. Shining it at a white wall at close range makes it a bit hard on the eyes looking at the hotspot. Lux's measured amps at 10V with one of these bulbs is 7.7A which means this 35W bulb is running at 77 Watts.
Run time:
I estimate the batteries to hold about 55 Watt hours of power when fully charged. This means that on maximum output the run time would be somewhere close to 40 minutes, over 30 minutes at least. On the medium output it should run for more than an hour (80 minutes theoretically). Overall this seems pretty good considering the output I am getting.
Performance:
According to Lux's Destructive Incan Bulb Tests - the WA1111 outputs 96 Lux at 1M on 8 Volts (any more than 8V risks :poof:) and the WA1185 generates 117 Lux at 1M from 11.6V (Over 12V risks :poof:). The Osram 64430 that I am using produces 223 Lux at 1M when run at 10V and doesn't :poof: till 11V. So compared to a Mag11 or Mag85 I am getting a lot more light output with over double the Lux of a Mag11 and almost double that of the Mag85. I could use the torch at medium output and in theory the bulb would last for over 1000 hours, obviously running at maximum (10V) will severely shorten the life of the bulb and I might expect around 8 hours of bulb life at that level. I have 1 bulb in the torch and 6 spares - so I don't need to put another order through to svetila in any great hurry.
Negatives:
The KD reflector isn't all that great - the focus for this big bulb is not exactly pin-point. Obviously this torch would throw much better with a 2.5" or 3" throw master head from fivemega - but they aren't cheap and would make the torch look different. Currently the torch looks like any other Mag 3D unless you look into the head at the bulb. I might get a modamag MOP reflector with a .5" ream for a better beam and less gap around the bulb.
The other negative is the price - most of the build doesn't cost all that much, but the driver is a bit pricey at $107 with Kiu socket - unfortunately without that driver this torch would be hard to power from Li-ion cells - 2 cells is not that impressive and 3 cells is :poof: The only way to do it cheaper and have it still good would be to use the JimmyM regulated driver instead - more work but less cost.
Overall:
This torch is more a flooder than a thrower, but at maximum there are so many Lumens coming out the front it can throw its floody beam for a decent distance and light up an area like you wouldn't believe. The UI on Alan B's driver is really nice to use - from off you can click to either maximum or memory (depending on options chosen when programming) or hold for minimum or triple click for medium. From 'on' you can double click for max, triple click for medium or hold to ramp (release & hold again to ramp the other way). With low voltage cut off programmed in it is fairly safe to use unprotected Li-ions which is good for the KD cells because their protected cells struggle at 3.5A and immediately cut off above that (I can't use their protected D cells with the 3854-H bulb), also the unprotected cells are cheaper.
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