Ra Clicky Part 9
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The bezel down clip is back in stock at Unique Titanium, for anyone interested. Shipping is a reasonable $3.50. Don't forget your CPF discount.
ninemm
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hey RA owners! Does anyone that has a Mac's EDC SST-50 and an RA Clicky care to compare the two lights for me? Is it apples to oranges? I'm thinking of picking up one of Mac's lights, but I want to know if it will be as useful as the RA.
zwerky
Newly Enlightened
i actually asked something similar in my post:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/270515
unfortunately, not a lot of responses.
i ended up going with the al mac sst-50 edc and i haven't picked up an ra light yet. but it's on my list. i would venture to say that mac's light isn't as rugged, lots of shiny smooth surfaces -- however, it is an extremely bright light. i have the 6500k, 2.8 one and on high, it's very impressive. if i were to go camping or do outdoorsy stuff, i would take the ra light (if i had one)...but for now i'll have to stick with my surefire ed2l or my e2e with the malkoff m60 dropin for my more strenuous activities. also, the run time on the mac light is going to be shorter, as well, i think.
personally, i love my mac light and will be getting a brass one, as well - so the ra light will have to wait a bit longer.
get both!
ninemm
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hey zwerky! Thanks for your reply. I love my RA and don't think anything could replace it. But something about the look of Mac's light and the way everyone seems to love it is definitely intriguing.
I'm currently saving for a Ra.
I have a huge dilemna, actually, two...
The first, my parents really don't want me to purchase any more lights. They've actually kind of forbid it, but I may be able to weedle it at my next birthday. We'll see, won't we.
The second is, I can't figure out which to purchase... The 170n, or the high CRI. I'm thinking of swapping the LED in my HDS for a high CRI P4, and getting the 170n, but still like the tint of the HDS currently.
I can't figure out what to do... Help!:shrug::mecry:
I have a huge dilemna, actually, two...
The first, my parents really don't want me to purchase any more lights. They've actually kind of forbid it, but I may be able to weedle it at my next birthday. We'll see, won't we.
The second is, I can't figure out which to purchase... The 170n, or the high CRI. I'm thinking of swapping the LED in my HDS for a high CRI P4, and getting the 170n, but still like the tint of the HDS currently.
I can't figure out what to do... Help!:shrug::mecry:
ninemm
Flashlight Enthusiast
Well, I don't own a 170. But I find the level of light from my High CRI more than adequate for everyday use. It doesn't throw for miles or anything, but certainly enough to see a good distance in the dark.
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
John Galt, sell off some of your lights, and maybe your parents will respect that and let you purchase another light soon.
Bill
Bill
I noticed this yellowish corona too with my 170, and I was at first worried something might be "wrong" with the LED, but I'm sure it's just a characteristic of the LED used. Like you, no complaints after using for a while.
What model output, and do you have any beamshots? Did you happen to test for what current the emitter was being driven at, and did you have to shim the XP-G up?
JWRitchie76
Flashlight Enthusiast
No you just have to have been lucky enough to catch the ONE that was sold on the web site that day! :naughty:
crizyal
Enlightened
I have a Ra 140CN and a Mac EDC AL. They are completely different lights. The Ra is throwy and feels like it could take anything I could through at it. The Mac EDC is very floody and SUPER bright. On high it has a 12 minute runtime for the 2.8A version. I love both lights for different reasons. If I had to pick only one, the Ra wins. :twothumbs
it's an EDC model (originally with SSC LED) as I intended on swapping the emitter from the beginning - thus spending extra money on a better emitter would have been a waste.
I plan on doing beamshots, right now I'm not at home. The beam is more SSC like, less throwy than GDP (i put in a warm white GDP before). Luxmeter readings taken in consideration i would guess it's somewhere in the 170-230lm range - although this is no scientific data as luxmeter readings are not 100% reliable (tint, calibration etc)
The emitter does not have to be shimmed if it's on a board. I bought the cutter 10mm board and reduced it to about 6mm diameter. To get a perfect focus you need to take some material off the board to make it thinner. If you start with an GDP based model the measurements will differ!
Current to the emitter should be higher now, as the XP-G is low Vf and Power consumption should stay the same according to Henry (power regulated)
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
Are you doing indirect lux reading, such as bounce off ceiling? Comparing to other lights that you own, using same station for readings? My lux reading area using Henry's Ra's are pretty close, ie Ra Clicky 100 Hi CRI) = 10.22, Ra Clicky 120 (Narrow)= 12.45. These I just did lux reading on, bounce. You can see how I get approximate lumen readings, ie 12.45 = 124 lumens, approximate.
Bill
yes, ceiling bounce. I do not have an integrating sphere and i am not aware of another test for total output.
When I test several lights I do all tests in a sequence putting the bezels always in the same spot. I do not think that this is super accurate but it's proven useful to compare outputs.
After some consideration i think it's more 170-200lm than above 200.
I am aware that results will vary with the clicky you started with due to the original programming which depends on the emitter HDS installed and calibrated.
Still, I am very satisfied. The 170cn clicky is great, but i am too sensitive to tint. Tried the lottery once, but i was not satisfied and thus decided to just go the modding way.
When I test several lights I do all tests in a sequence putting the bezels always in the same spot. I do not think that this is super accurate but it's proven useful to compare outputs.
After some consideration i think it's more 170-200lm than above 200.
I am aware that results will vary with the clicky you started with due to the original programming which depends on the emitter HDS installed and calibrated.
Still, I am very satisfied. The 170cn clicky is great, but i am too sensitive to tint. Tried the lottery once, but i was not satisfied and thus decided to just go the modding way.
iocheretyanny
Enlightened
What is the weight difference between steel, titanium and aluminum bezels?
Hello!
Would like to up-grade the led in an HDS clicky,
but I'm too green to know what is best model to look for
if all I want is four light levels. The strobe,beacon,sos,etc
can stay hidden or not be there at all. Prefer
white light and about 200-225 lumens,wider beam.
Any suggestions??
Regards, Chuck :candle:
Would like to up-grade the led in an HDS clicky,
but I'm too green to know what is best model to look for
if all I want is four light levels. The strobe,beacon,sos,etc
can stay hidden or not be there at all. Prefer
white light and about 200-225 lumens,wider beam.
Any suggestions??
Regards, Chuck :candle:
Best aluminum. Next titanium. Last steel.
But in a well designerd flashlight, the bezel is not relied on to carry any appreciable heat.
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