V11r issues

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Yohann

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Jun 28, 2011
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Hello, just got to play with my new Swm V11r and the output is the same on
RCR123's as on AA's. Isn't this thing supposed to give off 500 lumens with a tenergy battery at 4.2v?
My three year old P3d is brighter...
I love the fact it's smaller than my IFE2 but it's really nothing in comparison unless I can get this baby showing its full potential.

Anything I can do?

Thanks,
Yohann
 
Tenergy RCR123 are not 4.2v batteries.
They are 3v batteries.

That is the reason.
You need to get Lithium-Ion batteries, and not the LiFePo4 batteries like you have now.
 
Yep. Send a link or show us these 3.6/3.7V Tenergy RCR123 as a start.



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.
 
Wow, I feel like a dud now... My batts say 3.0v on them but are at 4.21v on my DMM I was under the impression that they were running at 4.2volts...They do say Li-Ion on them too. 900mah 3.0 volts and they come off at 4.2v. I guess ill have to reorder on HIDcanada, I just ordered last week too... darn eh?
So my batts are just not strong enough then.
Are these batteries compatible with say my Nitecore Ife2 and Ex11.2 as well? If so i guess ill change everything altogether. Also will my Trustfire multibay charger work charging these other Lithium-ions you speak of? and what d you suggest Ualnosaj?
thanks again

Yohann
 
just seen what it says about when on load these cells are at 3.0v :banghead:
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
You need to buy hi quality batteries like these, from these webpages:
1) AW RCR chemistry 16340 size 3.7 volts 750 mAH with protection circuitry:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?144427-NEW-Hi-current-Protected-R123s

2) AW IMR chemistry 16340 size 3.7 volts 550 mAH with no protection circuitry:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...18650-IMR26500-*Part-2*&p=2272984#post2272984

These high quality batteries have low internal resistance to deliver a faster discharge rate, hence more current, for greater brightness.
The RCR chemistry can discharge at up to 1.5 amps, and will deliver your V11R's 500 lumens.
RCR chemistry has a higher capacity, and protection circuitry to prevent overdischarge.

The IMR chemistry can discharge at up to 4 amps!
Used in a Jetbeam RRT-01 or a Niteye equivalent, the Niteye in particular can deliver 650 lumens using IMR chemistry.
However, IMR chemistry lacks the mAH capacity, and cannot have a protection circuit.
So, if using IMR chemistry, once the light steps down or cuts off, we must stop and recharge almost immediately; in this situation further use of the flashlight may permanently damage the IMR chemistry battery.
Furthermore, if an IMR chemistry battery becomes flat, and you store it for 1 month, you may find that 1 month later, it will not recharge.
IMR chemistry battery has no over-discharge protection circuitry, so it requires careful use and maintenance, but it can discharge at up to 4 amps for tons of lumens.


Btw, the low quality battery with high internal resistance, and a slower discharge rate, can be used on flashlights with XP-G emitters, because their maximum current is ususally only 1.5 amps.
Cree XM-L emitters can be driven to 3 amps.
Luminus SST-50 emitters can be driven to 5 amps
While SST-90 can be driven to 9 amps.
Of course, all these emitters can be "over-driven" beyond the manufacturer's max recommended specifications, but the life span will shorten.

A Trustfire charger is satisfactory.
An Ultrafire charger is better.
The best is either a Pila charger, or a Jetbeam or Nitecore i4 Version 2 Intellicharger with 4 bays and multi-battery type ability.
The i4 Intellicharger is versatile, a bargain, and great value for money...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow thanks PeterHarvey73 for all that info, Ive been lurking around and seeing all these nice lights and dont have all the time I want to play with them and experiment. But I guess I should upgrade my gear to power my Lights. My GF already thinks im nuts for having all these lights and cells and such all organized on my workbench.
Now ill need to tell her I dont have enough haha :)


Yohann
 
The Tenergy are actually about 3.1-3.2 volts. A single battery will run at 3v under load. Use 2 of them and you will be slightly over 6v. For instance, 2 Tenergies are too much for my Nailbender 6v max module. It will only run on low and medium with them.
 
Grab some AW RCR123 at the very least. I thought those 3V liion Tenergy needed to be charged with their own charger...



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.
 
Yes those Tenergy 900mah 3v cells need to be charged with their own charger, not the usual 3.7v chargers. They could go poof if you do!
 
Hello, just got to play with my new Swm V11r and the output is the same on
RCR123's as on AA's. Isn't this thing supposed to give off 500 lumens with a tenergy battery at 4.2v?
My three year old P3d is brighter...
I love the fact it's smaller than my IFE2 but it's really nothing in comparison unless I can get this baby showing its full potential.

Anything I can do?

Thanks,
Yohann

I have the SWM V10R Ti and it definitely runs very bright on one RCR123 compared to running a single AA with the extender ring.

I don't think there is much difference betwen the two models but I would get it checked out by contacting the service Dept of Sunwayman.

My V10R Ti had a problem when I first got it with there being hardly any evenly spaced magnetic ring control.

All the control was near the lower end and hardly any after about a quarter of the magnetic control rings turning capacity.

I sent an email to the Sales and Service Depts of SWM and they arranged for a local dealer here in Australia to send me a brand new one with a pre-paid satchel to send the faulty one back.

I had the new one in a couple of days and was also sent the newer metal Klarus XT11 tactical ring as well by the same dealer.

The V10R Ti is worth about $170AUD and I could not keep it with that fault after paying so much for it.


Cheers
 
>
You need to buy hi quality batteries like these, from these webpages:
1) AW RCR chemistry 16340 size 3.7 volts 750 mAH with protection circuitry:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...rotected-R123s
>

It is somewhat distressing that the linked post is from 2006... and does not at all mention the type "16340" but only says "R123."

And what charger models are suitable for that cell? Need a turnkey solution!

The SUNWAYMAN V10A XM-L T6 LED Flashlight is quite similar in lumens but uses AA's or a 14500. But I have not been able to search out a 14500 which is stated to be protected.

Or do Sunwayman lights have circuitry that will shut down before over-discharging unprotected cells? Have not been able to search out a thread explaining if flashlights can have such circuitry; I don't see any lights advertised as saying so.

Battery & light tech has made a lot of the posts on CPF obsolete and confusing. I am considering ignoring anything more than 2 years old...
 
AW 14500's come in both protected and not. The AW IMR's don't really need protection as long as you stop using them when the output appears to diminish.

I use IMR's all the time in my Zebra SC80c. When the high output gets to look like the medium, it's time to change batteries.
 
Also, if you end up with LiFePO4 (3.0V) cells, do not charge them to 4.2V, like the OP did/does... :poof:
 
Please don't forget to mention Cottonpickers chargers/volt meters to include in the list of quality battery maintenance components. They are excellent and crucial for checking cell health/status. Battery health can make a huge difference in lumens numbers, so keep em charged and healthy!
 
WRT unprotected batteries -- am I correct in understanding that nothing bad happens if you keep running it down in the light too far, but a battery having been overdischarged in that way might go kaboom when you put it in the charger?
 
WRT unprotected batteries -- am I correct in understanding that nothing bad happens if you keep running it down in the light too far, but a battery having been overdischarged in that way might go kaboom when you put it in the charger?

At a certain low voltage point, like below 2.5v, the cell may not be able to recover, and won't be able to be recharged.
I try to use 3v as my lowest discharge level. My normal practice is that if I use the light any significant amount that day, I recharge it when I get home. There is no real penalty for shallower discharging and more often recharging with these batteries. I think it's best to top off unprotected batteries fairly regularly, so that you have full run-time, and don't risk the deep discharge issue.
 
Right now I'm using some UltraFire 16340s in my V11R...just until I can get some AWs, but my Revolution starts flashing when they get down to around 3.1 volts and the flashing slows down to a blinking as the voltage drops. I decided to stop testing at 3.01 volts. Will it shut the light off? I don't know...but at least you will get plenty of warning if you choose to use IMRs.
 
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