#4 FOURSEVENS Quark Smart QSL !

[Blades]

I popped in to find out about the android app. Seems we are still waiting.

 

[4sevens]

Sorry for the late response. We've been quite busy with shows, staff changes, etc. I'm the only one qualified to respond here so I have to stretch the intervals between my time here and other responsibilities.

Why not just release the IOS source code and let us take care of it at this point?

That's not going to happen. The implications are huge. ie. lights can self destruct with wrong firmware. Also ios source will not help anyone at all with android.

As mentioned above Android is a bit more difficult to develop apps for. The sheer number of variations in devices and different versions they're running on, lack of developer tools, etc make it much harder to successfully build a stable app. Especially with a company that has fewer resources or experience with coding for this platform. It makes sense that the iOS app would be easier to build since Apple does provide more resources and you don't have hundreds of different devices running different hardware or software versions. Keep working at it, this definitely has the potential to really change how people use and customize their flashlights!

Thanks for understanding. There is ZERO support, API's and libraries for BT LE in android. Big companies who are using BTLE are developing their own with significant resources. And they're not sharing and that's understandable. Android is complete mess. Open systems and flexibility makes it a nightmare for developers especially those who are on the bleeding edge. Open sounds good but those who have not developed software have no idea.

As of right now android development has been put on hold until we can find another android developer who is qualified and is experienced with BT LE. We've hit several road blocks and I've put a pause on this and focus on development on refining the firmware and ios app as well as new BTLE products. Yes some of you will complain some more but you asked and here is my answer - just know that complaining will not help the situation. We are looking for qualified android developers.

What is the latest firmware?
When was it released?
Is there a place that those of us who do not have an app can see what the latest firmware is so that we can know when to try and update our lights?
For Android users, could you please post a list of the 'tap codes' so we can use the advanced features of the light until the Android app is ready?

Latest fw comes with the latest app. when you connect to the light each time it checks for fw versions. If a popup doesn't come up suggesting an update then you have the latest.
We do not have a published tap codes list as that may change with fw updates.

Just wanted to give a shoutout to CS and thank them for sending out tailcap guts so quickly for me, that was tops. Good work guys!
However, these ones still aren't quite right, unfortunately. Now the light works just fine with primaries, which is nice, but I still can't depress the tailcap button using AW 16340s, which is my preferred cell. So it seems the sizing is still weird, I have no idea. I've never had a light where this happened before. At any rate, after swapping various parts around half a dozen times, it seems like the old guts are magically working properly. So I guess I am ok right now. But there might need to be some adjustments made so that the light can be used fully with both primaries and li-ions.

The smart lights were designed with mass produced primary cr123a's in mind. They have standard dimensions with tight tolerances. Now RCR123a's greatly vary in size. I've see as much as 3mm difference (+/- 1.5mm) which is HUGE. I've even seen them as much as 4mm taller than the standard cr123a. So the new plunger gives the tailcap more reach and stroke. For shorter rcr123a the more reach helps. But for rcr123a that are too long the only solution right now is to back off the tailcap a bit and it fixes the tailcap action.

Well now the tail button has stopped working again. It's gone back to where it is stuck in place and cannot be depressed. I'll have to take it apart again and see if I can remedy it. I really wish those new plungers worked. There's definitely some issues with this tailcap design.

Also, sometimes the light will freak out and when I click the side button to turn it on it will turn on in strobe and I will have to remove the battery for a while to reset it, after which the settings on the app are reset by themselves too.

- when you replaced the plunger did you move e two orings from the old plunger? and the orings need to be adequately lubricated.

- the strobe will come on to indicate that the battery is low. next fw will reduce the low v threshold and possible remove the strobe all together and rely on the side led to indicate low v.

- we're looking into lost settings. the settings should be safe between battery changes. are you able to consistently and repeatedly cause it to do that? If so pm me the details so I can try to repeat it. The only condition i can see it losing settings is as it's writing the settings the power is pulled or it hits low voltage. But writing takes only a fraction of time so it's highly improbably though not impossible. We're also looking into possibly storing all the settings in the app so that it can be reloaded or copied from device to device.

With the help of the customer service the problem was fixed. But now I can't control the light with the app anymore. That's somewhat annoying.

If this happens go to the app and disconnect and forget the device by swiping to the right. Then go to settings, bluetooth and tap on the flashlight and forget it. Then go back to the app and pair it again and it should work again. BTLE has a function where it can broadcast it's state while not connected to the phone. So you may be able to see the status of the light and even watch it turn on and off in the app when playing the light yet you would not be able to control the light with the app. Following these instructions will clear it up.

Furthermore, you are also correct in that there seems to be a very significant parasitic drain on this light when not in use. I have now had two RCR123s drain to nothing with very little use. And when I say nothing, I mean like 3.2-3.3v. So it appears that the light is able to drain the cell even to unsafe low levels while idle. This is concerning too me as well.

As I really don't want to wreck perfectly good AW cells I am probably going to shelve this flashlight.

I don't think parasitic drain is your problem. I have several QSL's on the shelf loaded with rcr123a's and they have sat for months and they all report 90%+

It may be that you have notify me when disconnected on. I've had come back to a few drained lights after leaving them for a few days only to find out that it was strobing when I left with my phone. Turn that off option off unless you carry your phone and flashlight together all the time. New fw should have an auto off after a few minutes.

Also since bt is shared with wifi (2.4ghz). sometimes where there is a lot of wifi traffic i.e. streaming video at home the flashlight may think it's disconnected every now an then and that could also suck some power.

One more thing to note rcr123a are constantly powering a protection circuit - naturally they will have much less shelf life than cr123a. but I have come across some rcr123a's that have very high self discharge - so be sure to check that and make sure you get good rcr123a's and not generic stuff.

Hi Chance,
As I have stated on other threads, I own almost every parasitic drain light that has been complained about from the EC-1 to the EC-11 and every brand and model in between...I don't know if I am just lucky, but Parasitic drain has not been a problem. With the Smart, if I were to take the voltage on the app, it would appear so, but when I take the cell out and do a voltage test with my DMM and a load test with my ZTS, it is negligible...I should buy a lottery ticket...

No lottery ticket needed. We designed it with very very low self discharge in mind - we're talking microamps. It should be less than the self discharge of the battery. The navi with a cr2032 cell which only has 180mah should run over a year.

Hi,
i have a question about the app. Does anyone know what the 24h cycle-slider in the power settings does?

That is how long it will keep the side led lit after the light is turned off. handy if you drop the light in the dark - it's easier to find. also you can quickly glance and check your battery level without having the main led on.

I purchased a 4Sevens Quark QSL, and I'm excited about its potential. If it worked properly, it would be a great light! Disappointingly, mine doesn't. :sigh:

I haven't been able to pinpoint what causes the issue, but if I have it in tactical mode, and I press and release the tailcap repeatedly, flashing the light, eventually the light "locks up." The red side LED comes on steady and the light stops responding to button presses. Removing the battery and resetting the light gets it back to normal. Is this some kind of lock-out feature I'm not aware of? Has anyone else experienced this issue?

That's not normal. What battery type are you using and what is the battery level?

Yes, that seems to be the case. I looked at the 4-Sevens facebook page and saw no information except ads for their lights. I posted a comment about there not being a readable, complete set of instructions for the Quark Smart light. No reply from them. It is unconscionable to not prepare these instructions.

We can send you a pdf of the manual if you're having trouble reading the included manual. Email [email protected] to request.

 

[piper]

Latest fw comes with the latest app. when you connect to the light each time it checks for fw versions. If a popup doesn't come up suggesting an update then you have the latest.
We do not have a published tap codes list as that may change with fw updates.

This question was/is for Android users. How can we know if you've updated the firmware? With no app in the near future why can't we have a heads up so that we can go in search of a friendly IOS owner to update our lights.

Why not publish the TAP codes and update them when new FW is released?

You have a group of customers who bought this light in good faith. OK it's trouble coding Android. 4Sevens has within its power to at least try and help those customers until a final resolution is achieved. 4Sevens is known for its customer service, why stop with this light?

 

[4sevens]

This question was/is for Android users. How can we know if you've updated the firmware? With no app in the near future why can't we have a heads up so that we can go in search of a friendly IOS owner to update our lights.
Why not publish the TAP codes and update them when new FW is released?

We will post here when there is an app/fw update.

The problem with posting tap code here or anywhere - people will quote the posts and old information will go out and cannot be edited/updated and it creates more of a problem.
What would you like to achieve with tap codes? Which ones do you use now and what are you trying to do?


Ok I'll post here (and edit and update here - note all subject to change)
But just watch - someone will quote this post and outdated information will get out into the wild.

click = push button and release in less than 250ms
press = push button and hold for at least 250ms


tactical ui (default)
rear click/press = turns on light. release to turn off
side click = turn on and stays on. side click again to turn off
side double click when off = strobe
side double click when on = jump to the next mode.
side triple click while on = set this mode for the rear tactical mode (default is strobe)
side press and hold from off or on = it will start from moon and ramp up to max and repeat. release when it is the level desired
side click then press and hold from off or on = it will start from max and ramp down to moon and repeat. release when it is the level desired


pro ui
rear/side click from off = turns on light. click again to turn off
rear press and hold = turns on max. release button to turn off or if returns to original level if already on
rear double click from off = strobe
rear double click from on = select next mode
side double click from on = select next mode
side press and hold from off or on = it will start from moon and ramp up to max and repeat. release when it is the level desired
side click then press and hold from off or on = it will start from max and ramp down to moon and repeat. release when it is the level desired


all ui's from off
side 7 clicks and press and hold on 8th for 10 seconds = reset to default
side 3 clicks and hold on 4th for a few seconds from off = page app
side 10 clicks = shutdown rf per military requirements. 10 clicks again to turn on.
side 99 clicks hold on 100th for 386 seconds. release before 396 seconds = initiate self destruct. stand back 50ft. kids please don't try this at home.

 

[piper]

Thank You!

Tap codes allow me/android users to have many of the functions that are in the app. With these tap codes we are somewhat in the game.

As for the fracturing of the list I also have codes for 'Programming Mode' (from up thread somewhere) and this allows me/android folk to have access to the user interfaces. Without the app these codes make this light much more useful.

That last one's right out of Get Smart!

 

[4sevens]

Thank You!

Tap codes allow me/android users to have many of the functions that are in the app. With these tap codes we are somewhat in the game.

As for the fracturing of the list I also have codes for 'Programming Mode' (from up thread somewhere) and this allows me/android folk to have access to the user interfaces. Without the app these codes make this light much more useful.

That last one's right out of Get Smart!

Technically 99% of these codes are mutually exclusive to what the app offers

app offers
- checking battery level
- setting battery level threshold and enabling low battery notification
- setting ui
- turning off specific modes
- turning light on/off and directly setting modes
- setting auto off time
- checking temperature
- setting battery level method
- setting nightlight (side led duration after off)
- setting the name and contact info for the light
- setting the group activation mode
- paging the flashlight
- remember the last gps location
- enabling notification when out of range
- flashing the hardware
- resetting to default

the only tap code that is shared with app is reset to default.
tap codes are additional (and auxilary). and purposefully not officially documented.

 

[piper]

Technically 99% of these codes are mutually exclusive to what the app offers....


...the only tap code that is shared with app is reset to default.
tap codes are additional (and auxilary). and purposefully not officially documented.

Yes of course. This is all in aid of Android users. When there is an app it will be used and the light will be better for it. Until then this is something more than a really bad out of box experience.

This light was released Jan 2016, it's late August. No Android user thought it would be back to the drawing board 9 months after release.

Remember, this light is the app.

 

[nbp]

Sorry for the late response. We've been quite busy with shows, staff changes, etc. I'm the only one qualified to respond here so I have to stretch the intervals between my time here and other responsibilities.

The smart lights were designed with mass produced primary cr123a's in mind. They have standard dimensions with tight tolerances. Now RCR123a's greatly vary in size. I've see as much as 3mm difference (+/- 1.5mm) which is HUGE. I've even seen them as much as 4mm taller than the standard cr123a. So the new plunger gives the tailcap more reach and stroke. For shorter rcr123a the more reach helps. But for rcr123a that are too long the only solution right now is to back off the tailcap a bit and it fixes the tailcap action.


- when you replaced the plunger did you move e two orings from the old plunger? and the orings need to be adequately lubricated.

- the strobe will come on to indicate that the battery is low. next fw will reduce the low v threshold and possible remove the strobe all together and rely on the side led to indicate low v.

- we're looking into lost settings. the settings should be safe between battery changes. are you able to consistently and repeatedly cause it to do that? If so pm me the details so I can try to repeat it. The only condition i can see it losing settings is as it's writing the settings the power is pulled or it hits low voltage. But writing takes only a fraction of time so it's highly improbably though not impossible. We're also looking into possibly storing all the settings in the app so that it can be reloaded or copied from device to device.


I don't think parasitic drain is your problem. I have several QSL's on the shelf loaded with rcr123a's and they have sat for months and they all report 90%+

It may be that you have notify me when disconnected on. I've had come back to a few drained lights after leaving them for a few days only to find out that it was strobing when I left with my phone. Turn that off option off unless you carry your phone and flashlight together all the time. New fw should have an auto off after a few minutes.

Also since bt is shared with wifi (2.4ghz). sometimes where there is a lot of wifi traffic i.e. streaming video at home the flashlight may think it's disconnected every now an then and that could also suck some power.

One more thing to note rcr123a are constantly powering a protection circuit - naturally they will have much less shelf life than cr123a. but I have come across some rcr123a's that have very high self discharge - so be sure to check that and make sure you get good rcr123a's and not generic stuff.

Hey David, thanks for your response. I apologize for being obnoxious earlier in the thread. I really do want this light to succeed, it has great potential and is offering cool features basically no one else is working with.

I did swap over the little o-rings and they seem slippery enough. I have had very sporadic results with the various guts and batteries and am struggling to nail down exactly what works with what. Sometimes the tailcap seems to work fine with one cell only to not work right later on. I am using AW RCR123s and Battery Station CR123s, which I consider to be very popular brands and very well respected here on the forums. I have never had an issue with fitment issues with either of these cells before in other lights. I will keep swapping things to try to figure out exactly what doesn't work. Right now the original guts are in, and It seems with the BS 123s the tailcap button will move but will not engage and activate the light, but the RCRs are functioning fine in regards to the tail button. That's a little different than what I had experienced before. I will go back to the new guts and see what I can make work again.

The strobe seemed to happen when the voltage of the cell was very low and this is when the settings were lost as well. Generally with a battery change it is not an issue that I have seen.

I use these RCR cells in other lights without issues, and the cells were drained in a few days in the QSL, so I do not believe that it is the protection circuit or any natural self discharge that was draining it. Also, I do not have the notify me toggled on. I only connected the light to my phone to adjust settings and then disconnect; my BT on my phone is off almost all the time. I did however have on the side button night light feature; I set it to stay on for 7 hours so it would glow all night next to the bed if I used the light before I went to sleep. Is the night light function very energy consuming? That is the only other thing I can think of if the light isn't it draining the battery.

Thanks.

 

[Blades]

Will there be new lights coming from 4Sevens or is all the concentration on the android app?

Self destruct? Now that would be cool.

 

[wpnsmith]

I'm just trying to resurrect my Quark Smart QSL-X light, and have a question about revisions:

What's the latest hardware revision?

What's the lastest firmware revision?

And are there any release notes?

Thanks!

 

[wpnsmith]

Hi Chance,
As I have stated on other threads, I own almost every parasitic drain light that has been complained about from the EC-1 to the EC-11 and every brand and model in between...I don't know if I am just lucky, but Parasitic drain has not been a problem. With the Smart, if I were to take the voltage on the app, it would appear so, but when I take the cell out and do a voltage test with my DMM and a load test with my ZTS, it is negligible...I should buy a lottery ticket...

One thing that might be confusing this issue is that some batteries drop off really quickly. Some batteries will slowly decay in output over a minute or two, some will go from essentially full brightness to completely dead within a few seconds. If so, the ADC in the flashlight might think it's at 90% one moment and 0% the next.

Just a thought....

 

[wpnsmith]

There was mention of upgrading the emitter to something with a better color, and that that would be the purview of aftermarket upgraders.

I've been using my light for a few days, and I really need to get away fromt eh green and into white, maybe trending towards blue (personal preference).

Anyone know of an aftermarket upgrader that'll do that for me?

Thanks!

 

[Blades]

There was mention of upgrading the emitter to something with a better color, and that that would be the purview of aftermarket upgraders.

I've been using my light for a few days, and I really need to get away fromt eh green and into white, maybe trending towards blue (personal preference).

Anyone know of an aftermarket upgrader that'll do that for me?

Thanks!

PM sent.



My wife downloaded the app for me on her iPhone. It makes the light a lot easier to use. Instead of selling it I may keep it now that I can change modes from Tactical/Pro/Infinity.



EDIT:
The more I play with the app and get the light setup the more I like it. I NEED THE ANDROID APP! My wife doesn't want to loan me her phone all the time.

 

[Blades]

With the latest app you can set what modes you want/don't want, but not the sequence. The light does have the ability to use a custom mode table, but the interface to set this is not yet implemented in the app. There is a way to do it, but I need to test it first.

--Ferdi

Any word on the "custom mode"? Did you finish the test?

 

[Blades]

How do I turn the blinking green side switch off? Not the nightlight, that is off. I think I read this has something to do with the bluetooth. I tried to turn off the bluetooth and ended up changing my side switch settings. Whoops.

 

[Blades]

New concerns: Every now and then my tail cap switch locks on with a primary battery installed? I tried backing off the tail cap and tightening it but when rapidly pressing the tail cap switch it will latch on sometimes. I can duplicate it.
I have my side switch set to strobe. All other settings are off in the app except high and strobe. Yesterday I tested my side switch and it was on high. I was able to set it back to strobe but don't know why it changed to high. I haven't been able to duplicate it.

I am enjoying the light and looking forward to the android app. My wife is also looking forward to the android app so I will leave her iPhone alone. I have Google Play money waiting on in-app purchases.

 

[Blades]

I was showing my light to a friend and the side switch was "high", not "strobe". How do I lock the side switch to "strobe"? I think since I carry IWB the side switch is being bumped on/off and memory makes it saty on "high". Still testing...

 

[nbp]

The side switch has mode memory. It should come back on in whatever mode it was when you shut it off.

However if you want strobe a double press of the side switch while the light is off will shortcut to strobe.

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

I just read this on foursevens.com:

Please note: We have made some changes to the Quark Smart interface that have not yet been updated in the manual:
SIDE SWITCH OPERATION:

There are two basic ways to interact with the side switch:

• Tap - A very quick press and release of the side switch
• Hold - An extended press of the side switch. Do not release immediately

Side Switch Shortcuts, when the light is currently off:

• 1 Tap = The Quark Smart will activate in Moonlight mode
• 1 Hold = The Quark Smart will activate in Moonlight mode and continue to ramp up in brightness until you release the side switch
• 1 Tap then 1 Hold = The Quark Smart will activate in Maximum output mode. You can release the side switch once the light activates. If you continue to hold the side switch, the light will ramp down in brightness until you release the side switch
• 2 Taps = The Quark Smart will activate in Strobe mode

SETTING THE TAILCAP MODE (TACTICAL INTERFACE ONLY):

When the light is set to the Tactical Interface, you can choose which output mode you want to activate when you press the tailcap switch. To do so, simply toggle to your desired mode so that it is currently selected and the light is on. Then, triple click the side switch and turn the light off via the tailcap switch. Whenever you activate the light with the tailcap switch it will come on in the mode you selected.

 

[oldpal]

I just read this on foursevens.com:

Please note: We have made some changes to the Quark Smart interface that have not yet been updated in the manual:
SIDE SWITCH OPERATION:

There are two basic ways to interact with the side switch:

• Tap - A very quick press and release of the side switch
• Hold - An extended press of the side switch. Do not release immediately

Side Switch Shortcuts, when the light is currently off:

• 1 Tap = The Quark Smart will activate in Moonlight mode
• 1 Hold = The Quark Smart will activate in Moonlight mode and continue to ramp up in brightness until you release the side switch
• 1 Tap then 1 Hold = The Quark Smart will activate in Maximum output mode. You can release the side switch once the light activates. If you continue to hold the side switch, the light will ramp down in brightness until you release the side switch
• 2 Taps = The Quark Smart will activate in Strobe mode

SETTING THE TAILCAP MODE (TACTICAL INTERFACE ONLY):

When the light is set to the Tactical Interface, you can choose which output mode you want to activate when you press the tailcap switch. To do so, simply toggle to your desired mode so that it is currently selected and the light is on. Then, triple click the side switch and turn the light off via the tailcap switch. Whenever you activate the light with the tailcap switch it will come on in the mode you selected.

Thanks for this information, but where exactly on Foursevens.com did you read this. I can't locate it. Also, what manual do you think is being referred to?