My Personalized EagleTac M2C4 (lots of pictures, 56k be aware!)

My selector ring is hard to turn. Is there any way to loosen it a bit?

Brightnorm

(If it's not against the rules I'm going to copy this to the other Eagletac threads)

Anyone have luck removing the lens? I have a bunch of fingerprints on the inside of the lens.

Very interesting, thanks! I've already used a silver Sharpie to mark my M2C2. The spacings for my settings are quite uneven, however---the distance the ring travels between high, turbo, and strobe is much shorter than the length of travel between the lower settings.

brightnorm said:

My selector ring is hard to turn. Is there any way to loosen it a bit?

Brightnorm

(If it's not against the rules I'm going to copy this to the other Eagletac threads)

Click to expand...

Send it back because mine will turn if I just look at it.

I gotta say that it's refreshing to see a manufacturer respond so positively to people modifying their products and showing pictures of the internals. I recently had a manufacturer pitch a hissy fit because I dared to show what their light looked like inside.

Glock27: Just four small o-ring for the 4 screws located at the top of the battery tube. We use 3mm (OD) x 1mm (thickness).
When three sensors are both connected, the light will turn off (w/ batteries installed) or turn on in turbo mode (w/ batteries uninstalled and then installed).

brightnorm: Yes. Remove the ring and apply a bit of silicon grease here:

Wow... lots of replies. I don't think you can remove the strobe. I think it's being controlled by the same sensor that activates the strobe and turbo (3 sensors, 6 modes). You can minimize the strobe by doing what I've done. Good to know my warranty is still good :twothumbs

houtex: By re-mount the board only, you can reduce/increase the strobe separation depending on which position out of the three that you choose to mount.

I used some oil base marker in white. I tried write-out before but it doesn't work too well.

adsl_keeki thanks for the reply. I'm gonna give it a try sometime this week.
I think it is so cool how EagleTac comes here to respond to our questions and even replys to modifications without the "you will void the warannty" answer.

houtex said:

adsl_keeki thanks for the reply. I'm gonna give it a try sometime this week.
I think it is so cool how EagleTac comes here to respond to our questions and even replys to modifications without the "you will void the warannty" answer.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I love how EagleTac is willing to allow competent self-correction of the issues here. It reminds me of Asus and their take on the original Eee PC.

I am very impressed by Eagletac as a manufacturer, Great customer service and products, Fast to fix issues and answer questions :twothumbs Will do business again anytime. Love my M2C4 By the way!! I just need to get the o-rings to make this bad boy water tight.

I use the clicky on my M2XC4 and I was able to remove the strobe and the off positions using a simple, low tech fix.

If you unscrew the head and pull off the selector ring, you will see a protruding tab adjacent to the magnet in the ring. That tab runs along a slot in the head. That slot determines how far the ring can be rotated. If you glue a 1 cm shim to each end of the slot (I used a piece clipped from a paperclip), it will prevent the ring from turning all the way. With a shim on each end of the slot, I eliminated the strobe and the off positions.

After making this modification, it doesn't matter how slim the turbo mode is. I get turbo at the full stop on one end, and low at the full stop at the other end. If you don't use the clicky but still want to eliminate the strobe, a single shim at the correct end of the slot will do the trick.

I'm at work right now, so sorry, no pics. Hopefully, my description was clear.

Hope that helps!

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that if there were one more set of mounting holes beyond the three indicated and those were used that it would rotate the sensors enough so that strobe would be beyond the stock travel of the ring.

Kato said:

If you unscrew the head and pull off the selector ring, you will see a protruding tab adjacent to the magnet in the ring. That tab runs along a slot in the head. That slot determines how far the ring can be rotated. If you glue a 1 cm shim to each end of the slot (I used a piece clipped from a paperclip), it will prevent the ring from turning all the way. With a shim on each end of the slot, I eliminated the strobe and the off positions.

Click to expand...

Thanks Kato,

I've not received my light yet so forgive me if I'm getting this wrong or making some weird assumptions.

So the travel of the selector ring is determined by the length of a slot in which a tab fits and slides. When the tab reaches either end of the slot, that's the end point - either off or strobe. Putting a shim at one or both ends shortens the travel and therefore excludes Off, Strobe, or both.

I was just wondering whether something tiny attached at the bottom of the slot to act as a roundish "bump" at the correct location would act as a "tactile" stop at the end of Turbo. If you then want strobe, you push past the "bump". ie - the tab initially stops at the bump, push a little bit and the tab rides over the bump into strobe....

ASCII Illustration below of bottom of slot showing two "ends" of the slot, with "bump" at the turbo/strobe point:

|-----------------------------^-----|


Just a thought.

I suppose it could work as a tactile detent on all the levels...

Alternative might be to do something to the tab so that the tab has a roundish downward bump on it, and apply a small depression to the bottom of the slot into which the bump would drop at each output level....

Anyway - all speculation as I don't have a light yet to play with...

Chris

That actually is somewhat similar to what I am trying to think through at the moment. I'd love to install detents at each level, or at least at the turbo level prior to strobe. I'll post if I figure out anything, but at the moment, it's purely academic.

chrisWELD said:

I was just wondering whether something tiny attached at the bottom of the slot to act as a roundish "bump" at the correct location would act as a "tactile" stop at the end of Turbo. If you then want strobe, you push past the "bump". ie - the tab initially stops at the bump, push a little bit and the tab rides over the bump into strobe....

Click to expand...

That's an excellent idea. In addition to adding the bump in the slot, you'd probably want to round off the corners of the tab to facilitate it sliding over the bump. Very promising!

Thank you for this tips adsl_keeki, after modification mine work perfectly. :twothumbs

How do i get the O-rings?


Will they be shipped automatically or do i have to contact the dealer or manufacturer myself?


Benny

MorpheusT1 said:

How do i get the O-rings?


Will they be shipped automatically or do i have to contact the dealer or manufacturer myself?


Benny

Click to expand...

Benny,

Just shoot an email to [email protected] requesting the o-rings and they'll take care of you. As a matter of fact....Nicole responded to my email this holiday weekend. She is certainly very responsive and seems to be genuinely interested in taking care of their customers. I am very impressed with her support of their products!

9x23

:twothumbs


Thanks.

I was able to deactivate my strobe by making the same mods as adsl_keeki in this thread. My middle sensor looked exactly like how the photo shows and I just desoldered and soldered it back on straight. Now I can slam the ring toward the right until it stops and the turbo setting is what I get. :thumbsup: If I remount the 3 screws to the center of the 3 holes then I get strobe at the last 1/8" of ring travel. And, if I mount the 3 screws to the holes furthest clockwise I get strobe at the last 3/8" of ring travel. Thanks for a very informative thread!

9x23