Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
No one really answered my question, compare a MTE P7 against M*g Mods. 
I built a light to do that. :naughty:
Here are two links for threads of similar mods:
Seoul P7 100% Variable Driver (Sideswitch)
&
Custom P7 D2DIM 18650 *** ALL SOLD ***
What is different?
This one has:
3D MagLite Cut to about 1.5 D
Bored Channels to accommodate side by side 18 mm or less diameter batteries
Seoul Semi Conductor P7 C bin LED from KD.
H22A new style heat sink setting on thermal grease
Heat sink is pinned to prevent spinning when assembled and allows take down.
D2Dim PWM (taskled.com) mode control with two User Interfaces programmable Modes
Monetary only short stroke modified switch
GID switch cover that is powered by an always on 5mm LED in the switch on low power consumption!
Charging Jack, any lithium 3.6 charger can be jumped to charge this light
Sleeved for C cell
AW C cell, protected Lithium-ion, 26540, 3300 mAh battery- WAY MORE RUN TIME THAN 18650!
Polished smooth tail cap
C-cell spring retained in D cap with copper braid jumpers to reduce resistance
Three reflectors!!
KD 52 mm MOP, aluminum
Sputtered MagLite reflector, OEM
Smooth MagLite reflector, OEM
KD coated clear lens
Pic
I bored a MagLite to take side by side batteries of 18 mm or less. I damaged the body by boring through the side so had it cut down to @ 1.5 D in length and decided it needed to be a P7. There is only 42 mm of channel available in this host now so I think that is a moot point here, a salvaged body but it is there, who knows what the future holds.
click to enlarge
The P7 is isolated with Arctic Alumina then glued with the Arctic Alumina to the sink. The P7 sports a micro plug and the assembly can be removed from the light. It is a H22A sink which I pinned into the body and the head nicely goes over the pin. This prevents any spinning that may occur when twisting the head.
click to enlarge
click to enlarge
The D2Dim sits on the four leads that come from the modified momentary switch. Momentary D Cell Mag Switch Mod is the link for that technique but I did something different and better. When you depress the switch it engages the contacts and that is the momentary feature, when you continue to push the contacts spread apart. You can feel this resistance like a two stage movement. Once the switch is made only momentary this extra resistance is annoying. By cutting a washer from a plastic tube to a certain height it was placed in the bottom of the switch and this limited the travel to a short stroke momentary switch.
click to enlarge
From behind the switch, top center of the body I drilled a hole and angled it up to the switch opening and inserted a 5 mm white high output LED. The ground lead is taken around the side of the switch forward, down and soldered to ground. In this circuit in the space on the side of the switch I put in a 4800 ohm (48K) resistor. The positive lead is bent down to the center contact and I covered it with a piece of braid and soldered it, the braid adds support. The face of the switch assembly is covered with a piece of automotive gasket paper for insulation although the negative lead does not protrude into this space. The LED will run low and keep the GID green switch cover illuminated faintly. The Vf is 3.2V and the resistance is 48000 ohms at 3.6 V , I = E/R, 0.4/48000 = 0.01 That provides a glow into the switch and I put a DX GID green switch cover on it, (you must put an O-ring of 9/16 in around the switch cove to lock it in.) this will run on the 3.3 Ah battery for 330 hours or 13 days. Here is more on these:
ROP w/ constant glowing switch membrane
IMPROVE THE N30 HID add a 225 Lumen R2 LED area light and GLOWING LED locators
click to enlarge
The D2Dim and LED use power and if you do not charge this light or leave it on a smart charger you can run your batteries down. This is true for all D2dim lights.oo:
The charging jack is put left of dead center 60 degrees as this does not interfere when picked up by right handed grasps. The socket is 10 mm so at 6 mm back from the face of the light is the hole for it. A PVC ring of 11 mm is cut then a slot cut out of it for the socket. To the PVC is put and end cap of Plexiglas and I make a copper wire contact in it. Braid is used to connect the socket and the two contacts together.
The socket is stripped of all the connection tabs and a thin wire is jumpered between the grounding contact and the body to insure a good ground. The braid is soldered to the indentation in the center of the positive contact, dead center. I coat the socket now with liquid tape and after that put over it a piece of shrink to insure the isolation. The spacing PVC semi-ring is loose and will center on the socket. Once the switch is in place wiggles and jiggles, thin needle nose or forceps are used to grasp the socket and put it in place. It wears a rubber brazier from a bicycle inner tube cut into a band.
A piece of PVC is cut to sleeve the AW C cell and a little silicone sealer at the tail end holds it in and thus keeps the socket spacer from jumping over the socket.
A modified D spring or a C spring fits into the de-anodized tail cape and is held in place for the D by its own diameter and for the C spring by a ring of high density foam. The tail spring resistance is lowered by using a jumper of braid. Resistance is Futile (mag spring resistance) a link for that type of mod. The tail cap has been polished clean of any knurling and machine marks, it is comfortable in the hand.
click to enlarge
I was finally able to compare the reflectors to the MTE P7 I modified and it runs at 3.2 amps. This m*g is direct drive. The OEM plastic reflectors were modified in steps. First the cam tubes were shortened so that all of the reflector could be used but it bottoms out on the sink and does not reach full focus. Cutting at the junction of the bell and cam tube solves that.
Ø Plain smooth plastic has ugly bulls eye rings in the beam pattern and only throws about 30-40 yards farther than the KD but the dark spots are too dark and it is a poor choice.
Ø Sputtered reflectors, and I got good at sputtering, are a poor excuse to put into a mod, it is a cheap way to build but better choices exist for a custom P7. It was a poor reflector. Nice smooth beam but dimmer and less throw than the other two, The MTE was brighter and threw further than the sputterer.
Ø The 52 mm KD p7 reflector has a threaded rim for WF lights and causes the bezel to set ups some on M*g, a thicker O-ring could make this look better. It is designed to set down onto the P7 and has a fixed focus. I put a gasket under it to insulate it from any leads on the P7. It had the best throw, beam pattern and brightness. It put light out further than the MTE, and the sputtered reflector but not as far as the smooth reflector but because of the artifact shadows in the smooth the KD was a better choice as the last distance by the smooth was spotty.
Ø No, I will not do beam shots; they are all relative anyway you look at them and I need to learn how to render them realistic for CPF, I am bad at that.
The D2Dim has two user interfaces UI0 and UI1. The instructions at first glance look like there is a multitude of ways to address the 4 features but that is due to repeating the instructions. I am making a dichotomous flow chart that for me was easier to see how to set it up. I will eventually post that in this thread if you would like a copy.
UI0 has a momentary, hold the switch and it comes on to the last level used or the level set in the Force mode. Turn it on and it come on at a level you set and then dims infinitely if you hold the switch or if at the lowest increases. This can be cycled. I set the light to either come on full bright and you can cycle down, my work mode or come on full dim and you can cycle up, my at home in the dark mode. The UI1 mode comes on in momentary at the dimmest and cycles up in steps, in full on it comes on at the step level you set and hold that button and it goes to full bright.
The two modes make it very versatile. It can be difficult and touchy regarding the number of clicks it feels to set a mode; once you get the touch it is OK.
Why direct drive and not regulated in the P7? Fortunately the Forward Voltage for the average C bins P7 is close if not the same as the voltage of Lithium Li-ion battery. You can connect directly, that is why the D2Dim can be used too. A regulated discharge provides constant voltage which gives constant light output but begins to fall when the battery voltage falls below the desired output. Robust Lithium Ion batteries, some 18650s, the C's and D's discharge at a rate so constant that the curve is similar to regulate discharges, so much so some eye balls cannot see the difference. Direct Drive works very well with the P7 and these large Lithium Ion batteries.
I love the system and maybe the light. I need C-cell diameter for work so I will build another just like this but in a 2C-cell. These lights are worth the $200+ that they sell for; a lot of expensive parts, design and hard work has gone into them.
Likely I will sell this one (with all the reflectors, LOL), and sell a 2C-cell and a 2D or 3D. I wonder about 3D on NiMh batteries with 12Ah of power? Maybe 4 hours of run time for a good weekend fishing light or maybe a 2D on a D lion? What do you think?
Actually I am hoping and planning to build a tri-P7 or quad- P7; so many decisions to the life of a flashaholic.
Well, CPF, looks like I am back…
Thanks to:
I call them simply, FRIENDS.
Plasmaman
Jim Jones
Missionaryman
LED Zeppelin
Lux Luthor
This shortie is now for sale! FS-RECHARGEABLE 1.5 D P7, Modes, Electronic GID & more
I built a light to do that. :naughty:
Here are two links for threads of similar mods:
Seoul P7 100% Variable Driver (Sideswitch)
&
Custom P7 D2DIM 18650 *** ALL SOLD ***
What is different?
This one has:
3D MagLite Cut to about 1.5 D
Bored Channels to accommodate side by side 18 mm or less diameter batteries
Seoul Semi Conductor P7 C bin LED from KD.
H22A new style heat sink setting on thermal grease
Heat sink is pinned to prevent spinning when assembled and allows take down.
D2Dim PWM (taskled.com) mode control with two User Interfaces programmable Modes
Monetary only short stroke modified switch
GID switch cover that is powered by an always on 5mm LED in the switch on low power consumption!
Charging Jack, any lithium 3.6 charger can be jumped to charge this light
Sleeved for C cell
AW C cell, protected Lithium-ion, 26540, 3300 mAh battery- WAY MORE RUN TIME THAN 18650!
Polished smooth tail cap
C-cell spring retained in D cap with copper braid jumpers to reduce resistance
Three reflectors!!
KD 52 mm MOP, aluminum
Sputtered MagLite reflector, OEM
Smooth MagLite reflector, OEM
KD coated clear lens
Pic
I bored a MagLite to take side by side batteries of 18 mm or less. I damaged the body by boring through the side
so had it cut down to @ 1.5 D in length and decided it needed to be a P7. There is only 42 mm of channel available in this host now so I think that is a moot point here, a salvaged body but it is there, who knows what the future holds.click to enlarge
The P7 is isolated with Arctic Alumina then glued with the Arctic Alumina to the sink. The P7 sports a micro plug and the assembly can be removed from the light. It is a H22A sink which I pinned into the body and the head nicely goes over the pin. This prevents any spinning that may occur when twisting the head.
click to enlarge
click to enlarge
The D2Dim sits on the four leads that come from the modified momentary switch. Momentary D Cell Mag Switch Mod is the link for that technique but I did something different and better. When you depress the switch it engages the contacts and that is the momentary feature, when you continue to push the contacts spread apart. You can feel this resistance like a two stage movement. Once the switch is made only momentary this extra resistance is annoying. By cutting a washer from a plastic tube to a certain height it was placed in the bottom of the switch and this limited the travel to a short stroke momentary switch.
click to enlarge
From behind the switch, top center of the body I drilled a hole and angled it up to the switch opening and inserted a 5 mm white high output LED. The ground lead is taken around the side of the switch forward, down and soldered to ground. In this circuit in the space on the side of the switch I put in a 4800 ohm (48K) resistor. The positive lead is bent down to the center contact and I covered it with a piece of braid and soldered it, the braid adds support. The face of the switch assembly is covered with a piece of automotive gasket paper for insulation although the negative lead does not protrude into this space. The LED will run low and keep the GID green switch cover illuminated faintly. The Vf is 3.2V and the resistance is 48000 ohms at 3.6 V , I = E/R, 0.4/48000 = 0.01 That provides a glow into the switch and I put a DX GID green switch cover on it, (you must put an O-ring of 9/16 in around the switch cove to lock it in.) this will run on the 3.3 Ah battery for 330 hours or 13 days. Here is more on these:
ROP w/ constant glowing switch membrane
IMPROVE THE N30 HID add a 225 Lumen R2 LED area light and GLOWING LED locators
click to enlarge
The D2Dim and LED use power and if you do not charge this light or leave it on a smart charger you can run your batteries down. This is true for all D2dim lights.
oo:The charging jack is put left of dead center 60 degrees as this does not interfere when picked up by right handed grasps. The socket is 10 mm so at 6 mm back from the face of the light is the hole for it. A PVC ring of 11 mm is cut then a slot cut out of it for the socket. To the PVC is put and end cap of Plexiglas and I make a copper wire contact in it. Braid is used to connect the socket and the two contacts together.
The socket is stripped of all the connection tabs and a thin wire is jumpered between the grounding contact and the body to insure a good ground. The braid is soldered to the indentation in the center of the positive contact, dead center. I coat the socket now with liquid tape and after that put over it a piece of shrink to insure the isolation. The spacing PVC semi-ring is loose and will center on the socket. Once the switch is in place wiggles and jiggles, thin needle nose or forceps are used to grasp the socket and put it in place. It wears a rubber brazier from a bicycle inner tube cut into a band.
A piece of PVC is cut to sleeve the AW C cell and a little silicone sealer at the tail end holds it in and thus keeps the socket spacer from jumping over the socket.
A modified D spring or a C spring fits into the de-anodized tail cape and is held in place for the D by its own diameter and for the C spring by a ring of high density foam. The tail spring resistance is lowered by using a jumper of braid. Resistance is Futile (mag spring resistance) a link for that type of mod. The tail cap has been polished clean of any knurling and machine marks, it is comfortable in the hand.
click to enlarge
I was finally able to compare the reflectors to the MTE P7 I modified and it runs at 3.2 amps. This m*g is direct drive. The OEM plastic reflectors were modified in steps. First the cam tubes were shortened so that all of the reflector could be used but it bottoms out on the sink and does not reach full focus. Cutting at the junction of the bell and cam tube solves that.
Ø Plain smooth plastic has ugly bulls eye rings in the beam pattern and only throws about 30-40 yards farther than the KD but the dark spots are too dark and it is a poor choice.
Ø Sputtered reflectors, and I got good at sputtering, are a poor excuse to put into a mod, it is a cheap way to build but better choices exist for a custom P7. It was a poor reflector. Nice smooth beam but dimmer and less throw than the other two, The MTE was brighter and threw further than the sputterer.
Ø The 52 mm KD p7 reflector has a threaded rim for WF lights and causes the bezel to set ups some on M*g, a thicker O-ring could make this look better. It is designed to set down onto the P7 and has a fixed focus. I put a gasket under it to insulate it from any leads on the P7. It had the best throw, beam pattern and brightness. It put light out further than the MTE, and the sputtered reflector but not as far as the smooth reflector but because of the artifact shadows in the smooth the KD was a better choice as the last distance by the smooth was spotty.
Ø No, I will not do beam shots; they are all relative anyway you look at them and I need to learn how to render them realistic for CPF, I am bad at that.
The D2Dim has two user interfaces UI0 and UI1. The instructions at first glance look like there is a multitude of ways to address the 4 features but that is due to repeating the instructions. I am making a dichotomous flow chart that for me was easier to see how to set it up. I will eventually post that in this thread if you would like a copy.
UI0 has a momentary, hold the switch and it comes on to the last level used or the level set in the Force mode. Turn it on and it come on at a level you set and then dims infinitely if you hold the switch or if at the lowest increases. This can be cycled. I set the light to either come on full bright and you can cycle down, my work mode or come on full dim and you can cycle up, my at home in the dark mode. The UI1 mode comes on in momentary at the dimmest and cycles up in steps, in full on it comes on at the step level you set and hold that button and it goes to full bright.
The two modes make it very versatile. It can be difficult and touchy regarding the number of clicks it feels to set a mode; once you get the touch it is OK.
Why direct drive and not regulated in the P7? Fortunately the Forward Voltage for the average C bins P7 is close if not the same as the voltage of Lithium Li-ion battery. You can connect directly, that is why the D2Dim can be used too. A regulated discharge provides constant voltage which gives constant light output but begins to fall when the battery voltage falls below the desired output. Robust Lithium Ion batteries, some 18650s, the C's and D's discharge at a rate so constant that the curve is similar to regulate discharges, so much so some eye balls cannot see the difference. Direct Drive works very well with the P7 and these large Lithium Ion batteries.
I love the system and maybe the light. I need C-cell diameter for work so I will build another just like this but in a 2C-cell. These lights are worth the $200+ that they sell for; a lot of expensive parts, design and hard work has gone into them.
Likely I will sell this one (with all the reflectors, LOL), and sell a 2C-cell and a 2D or 3D. I wonder about 3D on NiMh batteries with 12Ah of power? Maybe 4 hours of run time for a good weekend fishing light or maybe a 2D on a D lion? What do you think?
Actually I am hoping and planning to build a tri-P7 or quad- P7; so many decisions to the life of a flashaholic.
Well, CPF, looks like I am back…
Thanks to:
I call them simply, FRIENDS.
Plasmaman
Jim Jones
Missionaryman
LED Zeppelin
Lux Luthor
This shortie is now for sale! FS-RECHARGEABLE 1.5 D P7, Modes, Electronic GID & more
Last edited:
