Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF
So I received the parts from the anodizing company eloksal.no looking real nice, and I also got an epic deal from them, so big thanks! One of the things I sent in, was the nameplate seen above.
The other part of it is just a round aluminium disc I polished.
The big question was how to fasten this to the narrow spokes, and have the option of easy removal to access the bolt under it. I ended up with drilling and tapping tiny M2 threads to remove as little material as possible.
I then beveled the outer ring of the spider with an angle grinder (before the anodizing) and have now installed it with some silicone.
A picture of the lamp holder(s) I made these earlier this year.
I used high temp, nickel plated ring terminals on the hot end of the cable.
To install the PSU and Inverter, I used 1.5mm thick Aluminium strips that I bent to fit the tube. For testing, I will only use screws to mount them, but I will use some silicone here too for a more permanent bond. If I need to remove it, It's very easy to cut with piano wire.
A picture of the battery mount. These will also be secured to the tube with silicone. I will also pad the aluminium angles with some neoprene. I cut 2 slots in each and installed Turnigy velcro straps to hold the battery in.
A picture of the glass install. I used PTFE strips to get even thickness on the silicone:
Below is the lamp cooling shroud. Doesn't look like much, but a lot of time went into this part. Also had to do some adjustments on it after install. It's made from fiberglass sheet, that I put together in the corners with more fiberglass and epoxy. Also had to make a mold for that. Two small aluminum angles were installed to hold it to the reflector. Had to drill and tap matching holes in the reflector mount. The ducting adapter had to be cut both in width and length, rubber grommet for the high voltage cable installed and so on. (The white triangle is the adjustable lamp holder made from PTFE)
For the duct adapter on the exhaust fans, I took the easy way, had them 3D printed!
Intake fans were a little bigger, so I had to trim a corner. For the record, there will be done more work on the backplate. Water repellent prefilter installed, and possibly some carbon fiber sheet to cover up some of the vent openings to get the right airflow.
Install of the front neoprene gasket.
Fiberglass sleeve on the anode cable. This one will be hot...
Igniter is in beside the battery.
Latest news, just a couple of hours ago I finished putting the main components in the tube and temporary wire it for a test fire. I switch on the battery, and the inverter and PSU fire up. I add the control power to the PSU that will switch on the lamp, I get the "click" I see the lamp flash, and everything goes dead. The BMS app tells me there is a short circuit and has cut the power. I reset and try again, and the exact same thing happens again. I disconnect the battery and inverter but leave the BMS switched on, and power the PSU from the mains. Add the control power, and "click" I have light, full power!:rock: But while I do this, I keep my eye on the suspect, the BMS (app) and sure enough, overvoltage messages flash on the screen. :shakehead Ahhh, the joy of Arc lamps
I won't do any more testing tonight, it's been a long day... But it's pretty clear that the BMS can't handle being so close to the igniter or lamp, and I need to shield it from the ignition pulse or move it. All tips are very welcome! Worst case scenario, I need to swap it with an analog BMS. When I did the testing outside the tube, everything worked flawlessly. The carbon tube itself could also be a part of the EMI problem here.