(Custom) FluPIC installed in Arc LS First Run !!

[bombelman]

I ordered the popular FluPIC board from CPF-Member "Goldserve".
This boards has great functions, including my favorite (attention-getter) STROBE. I had him program a custom "Alternating" Strobing feature, where the strobe lites, then off, then on, then on (alternating between on and off).

These nice functions are being sold on boards als Jil-drop-in replacements...

But my First Run Arc #407 was laying around, being a bit "dim", so I decided to find a way to fit a Jil-sized FluPIC board in a First Run Arc head.

I had to make a custom "can" that would fold the FluPIC, and this can would then fit in the Arc LS. FluPIC diameter is 15,25mm and the "can" is 22mm.... (The size of the stock Arc LS First Run Board)

I hope I encourage more modders to add these FluPIC features to the great Arc System and keeping First Runs RUNNING !! :rock:

:rock: Cheers to Goldserve for making this wonderful hobby-item !! :buddies:
:thanks:
:goodjob:


Comments welcome.

Below are the pics.

Here you see the FluPIC installed (top view)

Bottom view:

Droped into the Arc Head:

The drawing of the "can"/ heatsink:

Another shot, showing the First Run bezel with Mc-R18 installed incl ring.

Here's the custom "Alternating"-strobe feature explained:
(I used 0,8s instead of 1s)...

 

[LitFuse]

Nice work George! :goodjob:

Peter

 

[bombelman]

Thanks Litfuse....

I'm learning from the best !

Just have to get me some RCR123's to get the most out of the FluPIC boards........ :ironic:

Cheers ! :wave:

 

[CM]

My only comment is, well, very nice job :thumbsup:

 

[Icarus]

Yep, very nice mod George! :twothumbs

 

[goldserve]

Nice work..now that's some inspiration!

 

[chimo]

Nice job! I put one of my FLuPICs in an ArcLS (non-first run) as well. It really adds functionality. Very nice pics as well.

Paul

 

[cy]

nice job!

 

[bombelman]

Chimo, I saw a mod where a penny was used to hold the FluPIC in a grey bead-blasted Arc (non-FirstRun), was that your's ?


I guess it was this pic: :thinking:

Great efforts also !! :goodjob:

Cheers !

 

[chimo]

That's it. Here is the original post.

I have since swapped out the reflector for an IMS17, the lens for a 2mm mineral glass, and added a split washer between the locking ring and the heatsink to improve grounding.

The body is HA sterile (no markings) - the pics are not very good.

Perhaps I will refresh them and add some run-time charts. I got about 78 minutes on High 20/20 and about 35-37 minutes on Burst. Cheers,

Paul

 

[mosport]

Very nice work bombelman, I haven't seen this mod on a first run until today. The McR-18 is a nice touch too, you're right that the FLuPIC deserves R123's to get the most out of it.

Those are nice runtimes chimo, being new to R123 chemistry I was unsure if I should run the burst mode for that long. I have some mod pictures that I can post (if it's ok to add them to your original thread).

 

[bombelman]

You can post them here, that's fine...

Other nice pics can also be e-mailed to me
george (at) george (dot) com please.

Cheers :thanks:

 

[trivergata]

Killer mod, man!

I think this is high on the list of "to-do's" for me - Great work!!!!!

Josh

 

[mosport]

Here are some pics of the FLuPIC I built with chimo's original mod as a guide and inspiration.

Starting off with a penny (Canadian pre-1997 = 98% copper composition), the edges were filed down then fine oxide paper was used to remove the raised coin details. Take your time preparing both sides as flat as possible for mounting the emitter and epoxied board underneath. A flat surface is best since it will help thermal transfer with some thermal compound applied.



By chance the oil pan washer from my previous Mazda fit around the board snugly, aiding centre allignment placement during the epoxy step (especially with the 5 min stuff!). This isn't really needed if you're careful, but if the board doesn't sit centred then it's possible the ARC retaining ring and wave washer may not sit properly causing improper fit once everything is assembled.



For the TWOH emitter template, I found a small brass washer that fit inside the aluminum Mazda washer then simply scribed the position using a pin. The wire holes were also scribed, then drilled out and deburred. A clothes pin held the board to heatsink while the 5 min epoxy cured.







(Apologies for the sloppy soldering, this was my first mod!)

Everything was installed into an empty ARC LS with the 123 twisty pack, using a UCL and IMS 17mm reflector for optics. The 1200ms delay FLuPIC version is recommended for twisty use, but there's also a shorter delay board that suits clickie use. Finally, the ARC wave washer's inside diameter had to be slightly enlarged with a round file in order to seat itself against the heatsink.

I'm planning to build another LS FLuPIC when different K2 bins become available. Things that I'll use differently next time are GreenLED's teflon wire and less Ceramique thermal compound applied underneath the emitter.

Now with bombelman's mod work, both LS body styles are covered for FLuPIC conversion. Kudos again to chimo and goldserve for their friendly help

Happy modding!

 

[nightshade]

Wicked cool mods! :rock: Someone made mention some time ago of possibly machining a few copper heatsinks for this very purpose, don't remember who??

 

[bombelman]

mosport: Your Mazda must be down on it's knees now..... lol !!

I think anyone with a nice (bench)clamp and a file or fine oxide-paper, anyone can do this mod on pennies....

Great you built your mod with inspiration from a mod you also saw on this great forum.
And again I say, the Arc system is a nice platform to work on...

Regarding Arc mods, I'm currently working on a "new switch".
It would be a momentary-on switch, built into a 123-TWISTY (yes, a twisty!).
I bought it from MSaxatilus some time ago. I don't know yet who made it...
The switch is made from bare-Alu, but it is not sealed in any way, so it might get water in between the switch if it would ever get splashed.
I've already drawn a new version of the swtich to be made within a few days...
The only part I'm still requiring is a rubber boot for the switch, to fit the hole...
Does anyone have a 13mm rubber boot or know where to find one ?

See pic below for the package with the switch in the 123Twister...

Cheerio !!

====EDIT====
This post is a bit off-topic for this thread, so I've started a new thread regarding this switch and replies regarding it can be posted there. I will also update on the status of the switch in that thread.
Here it is: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1303879
====EDIT====

 

[mosport]

Nah that Mazda already sacrificed it's sheet metal to the winter road salt so my Toyota would live rust free...

Interesting switch, I remember seeing that picture of aluminum switch insert on B/S/T a few months back. I'll try to find a 13mm boot for you too, I'm usually lucky matching things that way. Please share your pics when it's completed.

You're lucky to have a local machine shop to work with, and to quote you from a few posts above "I'm learning from the best" too

 

[jar3ds]

i'm trying to figure out if i want to add a flupic mod to my E1e head... i wonder if a flupic can drive a luxV?

is there any technical data on the flupic? I know there are the mod charts... but what about general circuit info?

Thanks!

 

[goldserve]

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/92366&highlight=flupic+v2.1

No, it will not drive a luxV. Sorry!

 

[karlthev]

Now that's an interetsing mod! I'd sure like to know more about that one!


Karlthev