Fire~FlyIII detailed review

joema

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2005
Messages
1,189
Location
Nashville, TN
Pros: smallest available regulated 123A light, variable programmable output, quality construction and feel, good beam design, good beam quality, excellent output, very dim low level.
Cons: slight amount of battery rattle, operation possibly intimidating for unsophisticated users.

Detailed review:

The Fire~FlyIII is a very small, variable output, twist switch light using a rechargeable protected RCR123A battery and Luxeon III emitter, made by Spark Illuminations, run by CPF member Dspeck.

It can use a non-rechargeable CR123A but without max output. The mfg says it shouldn't be used with unprotected RCR123A batteries. Price is $130, including battery and Nano charger.

Construction is aluminum with a copper heatsink. Size: 64mm x 19 mm (pocket body), 20mm (bezel dia.). The key lug body version is about 4 mm longer. Surface is black type III hard anodized. Light will tail stand (candle mode) with either body style. Measured weight (with battery) is 58 grams, vs 38g for the Peak Caribbean and 76g for an HDS U60.

The FF3 has three brightness levels, of which two are user selectable (out of 20 available levels). Five available user interfaces can be selected. The simplest default interface provides low/high/max, the more involved ones include SOS, strobe flash, and various other options. One mode allows the light to remember the output level at which it was turned off. The user can select low to come on first, or high to come on first. The user can switch between user interfaces based on preference. Light is controlled by an microcontroller using FluPIC firmware v. 2.1.

Brightness levels are selected with a simple on/off/on sequence, not by progressively turning the twist switch further. This gives a precise feel, and makes one-hand operation easier than other multi-level twist lights requiring more rotation. Twist switch on both my FF3s is very smooth, with the perfect amount of resistance -- a good precision feel.

Output on max is very bright. simple lux meter reflection tests indicate it's 25% brighter than an HDS U60, which would theoretically be 75 lumens. However the mfg says max output isn't designed for continuous use. Lux meter reflection tests show the default "high" output level is very roughly 42 lumens, about equal to an HDS U42 or U60 on level 2.

Lowest available output level is very dim. Comparing to my HDS U60 which is 0.08 lumens on low, I'd estimate it only a little brighter, say 0.2 lumens. This is dim enough to totally preserve night vision.

Beam design is good; hotspot beam angle is about 8 degrees, a little wider than a Peak Caribbean. Spillbeam beam angle is about 70 degrees, about equal to an HDS U60. However the measured spillbeam brightness is about double the HDS U60. This provides a flood characteristic at close range, yet the hotspot retains useful throw. Beam appearance is fairly good; there are some very faint swirls and inclusions visible at some output levels and distances.

Beam color is good, visually appearing very white. My two FF3s are almost identical in beam brightness and tint.

Summary: A very impressive product. It's essentially a pint-size HDS U60, but gives up nothing in output. It could also be considered a shortened Peak Caribbean with variable programmable output. Excellent overall handling and feel.

Many would find it too large for keychain use, but it's very compact -- smaller a pocket body Peak Caribbean, yet with about 2x the output (albeit on max, which is short-term use only). It's the same diameter and only 4mm longer than a Jil CR2 1.3w (UP), yet it's 123A-powered.

Run time wasn't measured.

FluPIC operation took a little familiarization, but isn't bad once you're used to it.

Instruction manual is well written and far more extensive than some other high end lights (e.g, HDS). However it could use a few enhancements such as a "quick start" page, more detailed examples of how to operate the interface, and bezel disassembly instructions.

Negatives: As typical with limited production lights, a little dust on the reflector. A very little battery rattle. Max output is impressive but not designed for continuous use. FluPIC operation OK for Flashaholics, likely indimidating for regular people. However the simple user interface #1 is just low/high/max/off.

Below: HDS U60, FF3, Peak Caribbean (pocket body)


Below: Surefire U2, HDS U60, Peak Caribbean, FF3, Arc AAA-P


Below: Peak Caribbean, HDS U60 (max), FF3 (max)


Below: Peak Caribbean, HDS U60 (max), FF3 (max)


Below: HDS U60 (max), FF3 (max), Peak Caribbean
 
Last edited:

goldserve

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 13, 2004
Messages
1,822
Location
Toronto, Canada
Excellent review indeed. A great slim 123 light! oh behalf of CPF, I'd like to thank you for your efforts in putting together this review.
 

DSpeck

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2001
Messages
1,189
Location
Toronto, Ontario
Wow, excellent review, joema! Thanks for the thorough testing. I will take your comments about the manual under consideration, too. In fact, I can post it on the web for everyone to take a look at... I am pretty proud of it as it is (worked hard at getting it to look good and read well), but most anything can stand a bit of improvement.

A small note - the colour is actually very dark blue, not quite black... ;)
 

joema

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2005
Messages
1,189
Location
Nashville, TN
DSpeck: I will take your comments about the manual under consideration, too. In fact, I can post it on the web for everyone to take a look at... I am pretty proud of it as it is (worked hard at getting it to look good and read well), but most anything can stand a bit of improvement...

Doug, the manual is very good. The layout and wording is very polished and professional. I've purchased limited production items 10x the FF3's cost which didn't have manuals as good.

Here are a few suggestions to make it even better:

- Have a "quick start" page, that very succinctly describes (possibly bulletized) the minimum steps needed to turn it on and select brightness in UI #1

- Clarify and explain the terms "mode" and "UI". Explain in UI #1, changing modes is largely synonymous with changing brightness.

- Figure 1 uses the term "User Mode 1", "User Mode 2", etc to denote UI #1, UI #2, etc. Ideally the term "mode" should be consistent throughout the manual.

- On page 5 under the heading "Setting Brightness Levels", you describe what that is, but not how to do it.

- For users who want to stay in UI #1 yet change brightness levels, explain they must change to another UI to set levels, then return to UI #1. It's obvious from the Figure 1 chart, but would help clarify to state it.

- There's a nice 3D exploded view of the bezel on page 4 and statement that the electronics can easily be removed, but there are no instructions for doing that.
 

LowWorm

Enlightened
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
428
Location
Salt Lake City
Thanks, joema - it looks like a promising light. A couple of questions: do you notice any heat issues at the high (42 lumens) level? In other words, could you run it that high for oh, say 30+ minutes and have it get no hotter than warm?

And was there any noticeable donut in the beam from less than 10 inches away from a white surface?
 

xr4fun

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 9, 2005
Messages
58
Location
Oregon, US
I've compared mine a little bit to my McluxIII PD. First I would like to say both are great lights. The beam on the FF3 is not as perfect as the PD, but what light is? It has a slight ring about halfway from between the edge of the hot spot and the edge of the spill not really noticable except on a white wall test. I actually prefer the beam for most tasks. The PD gets a donut hole at about 5" from the wall and the FF3 gets a little hole at less than 2" from the wall. The more I use this light the more I like the beam shape. At about the same light output as the PD it won't throw as far, but in Burst it almost makes it.
 

LowWorm

Enlightened
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
428
Location
Salt Lake City
Thanks, xr4fun...that info helps a lot. Sometimes it's apples to oranges comparing some lights, but regardless, if you are looking for a particular characteristic, it helps.
 

joema

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2005
Messages
1,189
Location
Nashville, TN
LowWorm: "Thanks, joema - it looks like a promising light. A couple of questions: do you notice any heat issues at the high (42 lumens) level? In other words, could you run it that high for oh, say 30+ minutes and have it get no hotter than warm? And was there any noticeable donut in the beam from less than 10 inches away from a white surface?"

I just did a 15 min, test at level 15 (roughly 42 lumens based on HDS lux meter reflection comparison). It's definitely a warm light. Within a few minutes it's noticeably warm, and by 5 min it's quite warm. It was never too warm to comfortably hold. It was a little warmer than my Peak Caribbean after about the same period. These are extremely rough estimates; instrumented measurement would be better.

On max output it gets very warm quickly. This is completely expected. It's outputting more power than an HDS U60, and the surface area is roughly 1/2 the size, so the thermal output per unit area will be twice as much. The copper heat sink was a good idea. Depending on the exact alloys involved, copper has about 3x the thermal conductivity of aluminum.

It's impossible to have a small, powerful LED light that doesn't get warm. OTOH, the FF3 allows you to set brightness levels. This can significantly reduce the heat, since your eye perceives brightness logarithmically. Just backing down the brightness one or two levels doesn't appear much dimmer visually but can generate much less heat and stretch battery life.

I can't over stress the above. I did a comparison of how hot my two FF3s got. I thought they were set to the same brightness -- output levels looked identical. Yet one got hotter faster than the other, so I initially assumed it had a less efficient emitter. But my lux meter showed the hot one was outputting 40% more, so the higher heat was expected. If you haven't used a lux meter, you just can't believe how insensitive the eye is to brightness levels.

I think most people can select an FF3 brightness level that adequately balances output, runtime and heat.

However anybody using levels 15 and above will notice it getting warm. In my use thus far it hasn't been uncomfortable, but it happens quickly due to the power and copper heat sink's thermal conductivity.

Edit/add: The only donut pattern I see is at one inch distance and less.
 
Last edited:

Phaserburn

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 30, 2003
Messages
4,755
Location
Connecticut, USA
Excellent write up, Joema. You beat me to it. I just got my FF3 last night as well. I strongly concur with just about everything, except my unit doesn't have battery rattle of any kind. YMMV, I guess.

One thing that I think was forgotten about this fantastic effort on the part of Doug Speck: mine included the "adapter ring" necessary for using other sandwiches in place of the flupic. Now, having said that, I see no reason why I would want to do this, but I got it anyway because I thought it might be nice to run a NG500 with standard 123 cells. I wonder what kind of heat would be generated by a long burn in that config. In a MM, it stays pretty cool. I appreciate the extra versatility in the design.

Also: this light is totally user accessible, and easily so at that. Doug, I just have to say Bravo for a really great effort. Not only that, but the largest caveat of all in today's CPF: the price was reasonable for what you get, which in my case included 2 new 750ma protected li-ion 123 cells (with Doug's logo stamped on them, no less). Doug also threw in a very bright and logo'd keychain Fauxton. Nice touch.

This is a great light, and my new EDC. I've tried the rest; the FF3 is the best!
 

DSpeck

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 19, 2001
Messages
1,189
Location
Toronto, Ontario
:eek: Thanks, Phaserburn! :) I haven't used any of the NG sandwiches, but at 500mA, it should not get very hot, just warm, even in a long burn. The BB650 in the FF2 got pretty warm, but the NG500 should be noticeably cooler. Of course, you can just set the FF3 on a lower mode if you want that output, anyway. ;)
 

Planterz

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 14, 2005
Messages
1,162
Location
Tucson, AZ
Could somebody post a picture comparing a FFIII with keyring body vs a Jil Intelli/DD?
 

PKT

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 26, 2003
Messages
47
Location
Florida
Phaserburn said:
Excellent write up, Joema. You beat me to it. I just got my FF3 last night as well. I strongly concur with just about everything, except my unit doesn't have battery rattle of any kind. YMMV, I guess.

One thing that I think was forgotten about this fantastic effort on the part of Doug Speck: mine included the "adapter ring" necessary for using other sandwiches in place of the flupic. Now, having said that, I see no reason why I would want to do this, but I got it anyway because I thought it might be nice to run a NG500 with standard 123 cells. I wonder what kind of heat would be generated by a long burn in that config. In a MM, it stays pretty cool. I appreciate the extra versatility in the design.

Also: this light is totally user accessible, and easily so at that. Doug, I just have to say Bravo for a really great effort. Not only that, but the largest caveat of all in today's CPF: the price was reasonable for what you get, which in my case included 2 new 750ma protected li-ion 123 cells (with Doug's logo stamped on them, no less). Doug also threw in a very bright and logo'd keychain Fauxton. Nice touch.

This is a great light, and my new EDC. I've tried the rest; the FF3 is the best!


I agree completely with this assessment. I got both body styles
And have no complaints what so ever.
Thanks Doug
 

BentHeadTX

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
3,892
Location
A very strange dark place
If I can talk my wife into it....
Do you ship to APO addresses and how much would the extra handling charge be? How long is the backlog? If I ordered today would it be a few months or a few weeks?
I need to quit reading FF-III reviews!
 

Phaserburn

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 30, 2003
Messages
4,755
Location
Connecticut, USA
Joema, did you take current readings at the different levels yet? It'd be interesting to have runtime estimates. Just wondering. I'd do it, but I won't be able to get to it for some time.
 

joema

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2005
Messages
1,189
Location
Nashville, TN
Phaserburn said:
Joema, did you take current readings at the different levels yet? It'd be interesting to have runtime estimates. Just wondering. I'd do it, but I won't be able to get to it for some time.
Sorry, I was going to but my meter broke. I needed a new one anyway :)
 

joema

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2005
Messages
1,189
Location
Nashville, TN
OK I got a new meter and did some tests.

Level 1 (dimmest) is 3.4 mA
Level 3 (default low) is 21.3 mA
Level 15 (default high) is 650 mA
Burst (max) is 1,000 mA

In theory it would run 200 hr on the lowest level. On level 3 it's measured output is roughly equal to my HDS on level 7 (7.5 lumens), about equal brightness to an Arc AAA-P. Theoretically the FF3 could run 35 hr at that level.
 
Last edited:

goldserve

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 13, 2004
Messages
1,822
Location
Toronto, Canada
Something doesn't make too much sense. Is this the current draw from the battery or actual led? Why it doesn't make sense is the big gap from level 15 to level 20...level 15 should be around 600ma. Are you sure you were level 20 and not burst?
 

joema

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2005
Messages
1,189
Location
Nashville, TN
Ah, sorry about that. It was burst, not level 20. I mistakenly assumed they were the same. Current draw was measured from the battery.

Edit/add: I re-checked level 15 and it was 650 mA. Sorry, don't know what happened the first time.

Edit/add: Let me revise the above. It was whatever the "max" brightness level is as shown on the FluPIC chart. If that's 20, it was 20. If there's some other term, it was that.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Top