Fenix Comparison L1P L1T L2P L2T

Red

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Fenix Comparison L1P L1T L2P L2T

I am sorry about the appearance of the columns.
I could not get them to line up properly.

Comparison Chart of Lux @ 1 Meter With Different Batteries

________ Alk ___ NiMH ___ Lith ___ LithIon
________ 1.59v _ 1.40v __ 1.83v __ 3.90v

L1T Low_ 175 ___ 177 ____ 177 ____ 448 *
L1T Hi _ 549 ___ 535 ____ 554 ____ 1245
L1P ____ 523 ___ 514 ____ 508


________ Alk ___ NiMH ___ Lith ___ LithIon
________ 1.56v _ 1.40v __ 1.80v __ 3.90v
________ 1.53v _ 1.39v __ 1.80v

L2T Low_ 235 ___ 229 ____ 428 ____ 568 *
L2T Hi _ 924 ___ 928 ____ 921 ____ 1347
L2P ____ 760 ___ 752 ____ 754


* After switching to high, the L1T and L2T would not immediately switch back to low while using a 3.90 volt lithium ion battery.
If the light were turned off for a few minutes, it would then work on low. But again, after switching to high, it would not switch back to low without turning off first, presumably to cool down.

Conclusions:

The L1T and L2T do not have a boost-buck circuit, and are not regulated over the full input voltage range of .9 to 4.0 volts. The circuit is apparently only a boost circuit, and anything over 3.50 or 3.55 volts input, will run in direct drive mode, based on the sharp increase in output of the L2T when using 2 lithium batteries totaling 3.60 volts, and an extremely great increase in output, for both the L1T and L2T, when using 3.90 volts.

The increase in output for the L1T on high, when using a 3.90 volt lithium ion battery, is phenomenal, and a thing of beauty. I just wish I knew how much it was reducing the life span of the LED.
 

Perfectionist

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Wow was just asking this over on the LED section ! Spooky ! :)

Great review and much appreciated ..... now where can I buy 3.9V batteries ..... :D
 

Red

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I bought my protected 14500 lithium ion batteries from lighthound.com.
But they are backordered 10 days at this time.
 

abvidledUK

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This makes it easier to read, from your figures.
 
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abvidledUK

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Do your initial readings imply that the L2T had two x 3.9v batteries inserted, ie 7.8v ?

Or the fact you show only one voltage reading, was it just one Li battery with a spacer ?

I wonder why the L2T with two "normal" AA's did not give the higher output ?

ie 3-3.6v compared with L1T's 3.9v with Li

Anyway, it looks like there is little point in buying the T version of either torch for higher output alone, unless you use Li batteries.

Interesting to put Li into P versions !!!
 
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onthebeam

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Red said:
The increase in output for the L1T on high, when using a 3.90 volt lithium ion battery, is phenomenal, and a thing of beauty. I just wish I knew how much it was reducing the life span of the LED.

What's the heat situation with the blast of light?? Does it get real hot, real fast????
 

NeoteriX

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abvidledUK said:
Do your initial readings imply that the L2T had two x 3.9v batteries inserted, ie 7.8v ?

Or the fact you show only one voltage reading, was it just one Li battery with a spacer ?

I wonder why the L2T with two "normal" AA's did not give the higher output ?

ie 3-3.6v compared with L1T's 3.9v with Li

Anyway, it looks like there is little point in buying the T version of either torch for higher output alone, unless you use Li batteries.

Interesting to put Li into P versions !!!
What also doesn't make sense to me is that the L1T and L2T share the same head, so the 3.7v battery test should be the same.
 

Red

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I used only one 3.9 volt battery and a spacer with the L2T.

It was not hot when I tried to switch back to low from high while using 3.9 volts.
But heat is the only thing I can think of that would change by turning the light off for a while.
 

CroMAGnet

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onthebeam said:
What's the heat situation with the blast of light?? Does it get real hot, real fast????
ya, what's the heat sink like? maybe it's not a problem.

thanks for the great info! :)

nice graph added too!
 
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abvidledUK

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Red said:
* After switching to high, the L1T and L2T would not immediately switch back to low while using a 3.90 volt lithium ion battery.
If the light were turned off for a few minutes, it would then work on low. But again, after switching to high, it would not switch back to low without turning off first, presumably to cool down.

I think you may find it's actually battery recovery, volts.

Tied in with electronics set-up.

Similar effect with Triton P1 as battery runs down.

Left for a while, it's ok to turn on again.
 

jclarksnakes

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Red,
....Thanks for doing these tests and posting the results. It is information like this in posts like this that make this website so very useful.
Thanks again,
jc
 

IsaacHayes

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Yes I need to know current draw from battery, on li-ion for the L1/L2 T's. (high and low)
 

Red

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IsaacHayes said:
Yes I need to know current draw from battery, on li-ion for the L1/L2 T's. (high and low)

I am not good at getting current readings from my lights.
I tried to get the current readings on high for the L1T and L2T using
a lithium ion 3.9 volt battery, but I could not get consistent readings.

The readings fluctuated, but for a few seconds the L1T read 720 mA and the L2T read 760 mA.

But the fluctuations were so great, that I worry that the true reading might be higher.
 

IsaacHayes

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It's all about how you push the probes on the body and batter negative. How you hold your hands to get it solid contact. Good job with the other stuff though! very informative.
 

13Coupee

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So, since the L1T is only rated up to 4.0v, will it not be able to run on a freshly charged 14500 putting out 4.1-4.2v and not cause damage to itself?
 

FlashMike

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13Coupee said:
So, since the L1T is only rated up to 4.0v, will it not be able to run on a freshly charged 14500 putting out 4.1-4.2v and not cause damage to itself?
The nominal voltage of a 14500 is 3.7v - fine for the L1T. EVERY cell puts out more than nominal when fresh and unloaded. My NiMh AA cells read 1.4v+ fresh off the charger, not the 1.2v nominal.

The 14500 will quickly sag below 4.0v when faced with the load of the L1T.
 

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