DonShock
Flashlight Enthusiast
Many of the LED modifications for the Mag require wires to be hooked into the stock switch. Since I like to be able to easily disassemble my mods, I decided to try to use these screw down terminals to make the connection instead of soldering directly to the switch. After a couple of different versions involving lots of wiring, modification of the terminals and epoxy glues; I finally came up with this solution that is both simpler and more rugged.
The first step is to remove the stock switch from the light, then remove the internals of the switch and chop off the stock bulb post. Sanding the top flat makes mounting the terminal strip look and perform better. Finally, two 1/16" holes are drilled to allow the pins on the terminal to poke through to the inside of the switch. Notice that the holes are parallel to the switch hole. This allows one pin to protrude on either side of one of the vertical plastic supports inside the switch to help prevent the positive and negative from shorting during assembly.
This is how the terminal will mount in the holes. 
Next, we have to drill more 1/16" holes to run short wires from the pins on the terminal strip to the conacts within the switch. Since the holes are difficult to see, I have left the drill bit in them so you can see where they are drilled.
The negative path:
The positive path: 
Next, we thread some wire through the holes and solder the ends to the pins of the terminal strip. I used teflon insulated wire for this, but you could even use uninsulated wire. The way the wires are routed prevents them from coming in contact with each other or any other parts which would risk a short circuit. Also, as the wires are soldered to the pins, it tends to melt the plastic around the pins slightly. This melted plastic and the wire soldered to the bottom of the pins provides a very firm connection that holds the terminal in place without the need for the epoxy that I had used before.
The negative pin and wire:
The positive pin and wire: 
Here, the switch internals have been reinserted, the wires cut to length, and the end of the wires soldered to the positive and negative contacts.
(Note: I have used a different nut than the stock one from the switch. This lets me eliminate an additional connection. You will need to cut the metal tab attached to the stock nut to length and solder to it instead.)
Finally, I added some electrical tape to cover the hole in the top of the switch so that the positive contact cannot be accidentally touched when inserting the wires into the terminal strip. I also painted the sides of the terminal strip with red and black plastic model paints to show proper wiring polarity.
The first step is to remove the stock switch from the light, then remove the internals of the switch and chop off the stock bulb post. Sanding the top flat makes mounting the terminal strip look and perform better. Finally, two 1/16" holes are drilled to allow the pins on the terminal to poke through to the inside of the switch. Notice that the holes are parallel to the switch hole. This allows one pin to protrude on either side of one of the vertical plastic supports inside the switch to help prevent the positive and negative from shorting during assembly.
This is how the terminal will mount in the holes. 
Next, we have to drill more 1/16" holes to run short wires from the pins on the terminal strip to the conacts within the switch. Since the holes are difficult to see, I have left the drill bit in them so you can see where they are drilled.
The negative path:
The positive path: 
Next, we thread some wire through the holes and solder the ends to the pins of the terminal strip. I used teflon insulated wire for this, but you could even use uninsulated wire. The way the wires are routed prevents them from coming in contact with each other or any other parts which would risk a short circuit. Also, as the wires are soldered to the pins, it tends to melt the plastic around the pins slightly. This melted plastic and the wire soldered to the bottom of the pins provides a very firm connection that holds the terminal in place without the need for the epoxy that I had used before.
The negative pin and wire:
The positive pin and wire: 
Here, the switch internals have been reinserted, the wires cut to length, and the end of the wires soldered to the positive and negative contacts.
(Note: I have used a different nut than the stock one from the switch. This lets me eliminate an additional connection. You will need to cut the metal tab attached to the stock nut to length and solder to it instead.)
Finally, I added some electrical tape to cover the hole in the top of the switch so that the positive contact cannot be accidentally touched when inserting the wires into the terminal strip. I also painted the sides of the terminal strip with red and black plastic model paints to show proper wiring polarity.
