Surefire E series two stage switch modification

[ilikeguns40]

I’m looking for anyone that can modify a Surefire or Malkoff E series switch into a two stage High/low with added resister if possible. Maybe a 1/4 counter clockwise turn for low or something along those lines. Just seeing if it can be done

I’m using single output p60 Malkoff drop ins and would like a low option. Some of my favorite drop ins are offered in single output only. A two stage tailswitch would solve all my issues. Thanks

 

[hamhanded]

I’ve tested and found a Malkoff MDC 2v-3.2v head on an L1 Lumamax will fit, and function this way. The L1s have the driver in the body instead of the head, unlike all of the SF two-stage lights that came after it. The Malkoff P60 drop-ins will not function on the L1, however, because they use a different type of regulation. Both high and low will be the same. The MDCs do not have the same regulation (or any at all, which is why its runtime curve includes diminishing output), so this unlikely combo works, probably with a downside of additional losses from running two drivers.

As far as custom mods... the multi mode feature of the Surefire two-stage tailcaps like the EDCL-*T seems to be more than just the resistors in the tailcap; the driver is amplifying the effect. You can see what this looks like by direct driving an LED with a two stage tailcap in line. You may find the low and high modes to be too close together to be useful, because the low mode resistor's value is not high enough to significantly bring down the current to the LED. Without knowing the Surefire circuit design, I would guess the driver is somehow using it as a signal to select mode.

The regulation circuits of the custom drivers I’ve tested so far have canceled even the minimal effect of the tailcap resistor out, making what would be the low mode the same as high. I am not aware of anything other than a Surefire driver that can do this-- so a mod would require ripping out the driver of a two-stage SF light, inserting it into your target light, and finding a way to re-thread your target light to accept a SF two-stage tailcap. A lot of custom work for little payoff, IMO.

The L1 heads have no driver so they're prime hosts for this type of mod, you need only replace the LED in the head, or find another E threaded head with no driver and use that.

 

[ilikeguns40]

Thank you for the explanation. Makes sense. Not a big deal I can deal with single output

My m61 nichia 219b would be awesome with a low mode on a single cr123 body. I really like Surefire E series as hosts

 

[sween1911]

Many years ago there was a custom 2-stage tailcap discussed on CPF known as the "McE2S". The complete tailcap and the 2-stage components inside were both described with that name. It was specifically made for E-series Surefires to replicate the 2-stage functionality that we know in the L1 and EDCL-T lights and worked on Surefire E-series, specifically the L4 and similar lights.

There are different resistor variants depending on how low you want the low. If you do some searching around for that name "McE2S" you'll turn up some descriptions and backstory. They're fairly rare these days, but you never know if someone in these hallowed halls has one they would sell.

Here's a great post with a PDF of the switch and components:

E series switch boot

I have a few worn boots I need to replace. I know Mark at Lumens Factory has them, but sells only 3 colors, with ship, $26 for 3, and I only want the black one, so $26 for that one boot and two more I won't use. These should be like $10 for 50. Anyone have a source for black E Series (z52, z57...

www.candlepowerforums.com

 

[ilikeguns40]

Many years ago there was a custom 2-stage tailcap discussed on CPF known as the "McE2S". The complete tailcap and the 2-stage components inside were both described with that name. It was specifically made for E-series Surefires to replicate the 2-stage functionality that we know in the L1 and EDCL-T lights and worked on Surefire E-series, specifically the L4 and similar lights.

There are different resistor variants depending on how low you want the low. If you do some searching around for that name "McE2S" you'll turn up some descriptions and backstory. They're fairly rare these days, but you never know if someone in these hallowed halls has one they would sell.

Here's a great post with a PDF of the switch and components:

E series switch boot

I have a few worn boots I need to replace. I know Mark at Lumens Factory has them, but sells only 3 colors, with ship, $26 for 3, and I only want the black one, so $26 for that one boot and two more I won't use. These should be like $10 for 50. Anyone have a source for black E Series (z52, z57...

www.candlepowerforums.com

Thanks for the info. That’s exactly what I’m looking for, couldn’t remember the name

I wonder why these aren’t being produced anymore? Seems like it would be such a great concept utilizing single output heads if needed

 

[sween1911]

Thanks for the info. That’s exactly what I’m looking for, couldn’t remember the name

I wonder why these aren’t being produced anymore? Seems like it would be such a great concept utilizing single output heads if needed

I could be mistaken, but I think there were trademark/patent/etc issues as the mechanics were a little too similar to Surefire's design.

 

[ilikeguns40]

I could be mistaken, but I think there were trademark/patent/etc issues as the mechanics were a little too similar to Surefire's design.

Sounds about right

 

[hamhanded]

There is the option of swapping the resistor in an existing SF two-stage tailcap and using it on a driverless L* body. Then you just need an E-series light engine with no current regulation. Maybe that would work for you?

 

[ilikeguns40]

There is the option of swapping the resistor in an existing SF two-stage tailcap and using it on a driverless L* body. Then you just need an E-series light engine with no current regulation. Maybe that would work for you?

That wouldn’t work, but I appreciate the help. I’ll just stick with what I have to work with it’s fine. If I want a high/low option I’ll just go with the Fivemega MD1 body and utilize Malkoffs MD head and high/low ring