Fenix L1T 2.0 Rebel First Impressions Mini-Review

onthebeam

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I eagerly received my L1T Rebel today. First impressions are mainly positive although there are minor glitches which I hope Fenix can sort out with quality control.

{PLEASE ADD YOUR COMMENTS, BEAMSHOTS,WHATEVER TO GROW THIS THREAD TO MAKE IT AS USEFUL AS POSSIBLE.}

First, the good. Really good! The light is simply incredibly bright, advertised by Fenix as being 90 lumens on high and 15 on low. Although Fenix was known to juice their numbers a bit in their earlier lights, subjectively, these numbers might be on the low side. On high, the L1T is slightly brighter than my Amiite T5 (Seoul), which is said to be 140 lumens and tested at 48.99 throw and 82.50 overall at flashlightreviews.com (Doug, you are missed!) It out throws the CR123 Amilite and has slightly less spill.

On low, both of these lights are rated at 15 lumens; the Fenix is slightlly brighter though. I probably got a very good Rebel emitter unless those new premium 100 Rebels are sneaking into this light unadvertised.

The fit and finish on the outside of the light is very nice. Could have a bit more grip to twist the bezel to switch from low to high but it's not a big deal. I tried the momentary clicky extra switch that is included but ultimately put in back in the box. I prefer the usefulness of a tailcap that can tailstand in candle mode; I use this all the time. With the extra clicky that is rounded and protruding, this is impossible. So, for me, the advantage of tailstanding came out on top over the advantage of momentary on with the extra switch. Still, a nice touch.

I wonder if these may have been rushed out the door. Two cases in point: The instructions were nicely printed on slick paper this time and clearly labeled as the L1T 2.0. As you probably know, this light only has two stages, low and high and that's what I love about it. No annoying clicking through strobe, sos, etc. Yet, the instructions are mistaken in that they are for Fenix' other multi stage lights that are controlled by clicking through the tail. The instuctions list six modes including turbo, etc., and that's a clear mistake in printing.

The second problem is a bit more serious. As others have reported, the head threads are "gritty." Upon closer inspection, a noticeable amount of black anodizing was chipped off the body and landed inside the threads. The threads on the cap were gunked up, too, and it almost seems like the light was wet with paint/annodizing when screwed together; the black color is flecked from the body piece and sort of glued into the cap piece. Nothing shows on the outside luckily but inside it looks pretty rough and feels rough, too. I cleaned both sides for about 45 minutes with alcohol and qtips and then relubed with Magnalube. Much smoother now but it still looks "chipped away" inside the light.

The color of the led is nice. As others have noted it to be slightly warm, I'd describe as slightly yellow but still nice and white. You'd only nitpick the tint when comparing the other lights. I have several Seoul lights which have particularly nice white beams that I use for comparison. Having said that, the new Rebels are brighter than the Seouls, at least at this rapidly fleeting point in time!

One other surprise is that the light is wider than the earlier Fenix AA lights. Takes getting a little getting used to. The head is quite a bit wider and the body slightly wider. Not a big deal, just makes for a slightly less pocketable light than before. Personally, when I want something tiny for the pocket, I'll reach for a CR123 light, a wee CR2, or the smaller yet Orb Raw.

Don't let these comments scare you away. When you turn this thing on, it's VERY IMPRESSIVE! All in all, this light's a winner and a good value for the money, too. Fenix is churning out a dizzingly large array of options these days and always is meeting fast changes in the marketplace. In the process of putting out some darned fine lights, I hope they'll put an eye toward the best in quality control, too.
 
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BentHeadTX

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Thanks for the review, it makes my wait worth it (should be here Monday)

I ordered the L2D CE RB100 but will use the L1D CE body with it and pop the Cree head on the L2D CE body. Put it in "turbo" mode and mount it to my bicycle helmet mount. Click for on and tap for strobe when needed. There is a use for that strobe and it works great as a bike light.

From your review, it sounds like the L1D CE RB100 Rebel will be a worthwhile upgrade when used as a helmet light. A bit more brightness with more spill should make it worthwhile. I'll find out Monday. Thanks again. :)
 

tmf2

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Is the low beam setting lower then the regular L1T's ?

Thanks, Dennis
 

cave dave

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Do the old L1/2T bodies fit the new head? Also is the tactical tail switch a clicky or is it push for momentary twist for on?
 

selfbuilt

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Do the old L1/2T bodies fit the new head? Also is the tactical tail switch a clicky or is it push for momentary twist for on?
According to 4sevens, the old LxT bodies do NOT fit on these new v2.0 rebel lights. However, the new LxD bodies do fit.

Anxiously awaiting mine in the mail ....
 

onthebeam

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Is the low beam setting lower then the regular L1T's ?

Thanks, Dennis
Not sure, as I no longer have my old L1T. But the difference between high and low is now much bigger, probably because the high is so bright.
 

patycake57

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Aug 16, 2006
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Is the low beam setting lower then the regular L1T's ?

Thanks, Dennis

The low on my L1T v2 is brighter than the L1T. I think the quoted 15 vs 10 lumens at the emitter seems like a reasonable difference between the two.
 

cbubu

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Does anyone know if you can run the L1T V2.0 on a 14500? Increased output?
A little test I did (lux at 1 meter):
--------1AA Alkaline --- 2AA Alkaline --- 14500 Li-Ion --- 2AA primary Lithium
high --100% (reference) ---170%---------- 170%------------- 169%
low ----26% ----------------26% -----------98% --------------40%

seems that with 14500 you don't get the low/high level of the L1T V2 but the high of L1T V2 / high of the L2T V2
(the 2AA body came from a L2D)
 
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NA8

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Got my L1T 2.0 the other day. Main annoyance was how slippery it was. Read a few posts about using bicycle inner tubes to rubberize your light. Gave it a try and the results are pretty good. Good grip now. Still able to twist easily for Hi/Low. You can simply roll the end down when you want to change the battery. I just went into a local bike shop (thanks citycycle.com) and asked for a blown inner tube. Random tube was a Continental Race 700 Light, 18/25-622/630, (700x18/25).
Fit perfectly.

edit: Found one of the old threads on this stuff:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/167974
 
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onthebeam

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Read a few posts about using bicycle inner tubes to rubberize your light. Gave it a try and the results are pretty good. Good grip now.
Fit perfectly.

It would be cool to see a pic of your invention. . .
 

NA8

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It would be cool to see a pic of your invention. . .

Ok, here's my first pic.

Care of imageshack.us. (no registration required) :thanks:

Tube color is very similar to the pushbutton's. Looks darker and blends in better in real life. This lets you see it well though. Kinda ugly. I went for a section with a lot of textured seams for better grip. You can turn the inner tube inside out for a cleaner look.

l1tv2innertubepr7.jpg



Here's a slightly different angle that gives you a better view of the thickness.

dustybuttonwb0.jpg



Ok more practice, here's a different trick you can do with a "deluxe round washer" for a garden hose. Snuggles into some of the bigger grooves. Notice how easily the inner tube will roll out of the way.

l1tv2washertrickgi1.jpg


Another picture along with a 3D Maglite sporting Gene Malkoff's drop-in and stippled reflector.

twolightsbn0.jpg
 
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NA8

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Here's another trick you can do with these innertube skins.
I wanted to keep the light from rolling around. I took a rubber plug I had in my junk box and clipped off just a small bit of the top. You can simply place a small item under the innertube and it will stay in place with no glue.

trick2aayr2.jpg



Bump looks huge here, but I guess the camera adds ten pounds. Just enough to keep the L1T from rolling around.

trick2bbdy6.jpg
 
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phosphor

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Puget Sound, WA.
Here's another trick you can do with these innertube skins. I wanted to keep the light from rolling around. I took a rubber plug I had in my junk box and clipped off just a small bit of the top. You can simply place small items under the innertube and it will stay in place with no glue.

trick2aayr2.jpg



Bump looks huge here, but I guess the camera adds ten pounds. Just enough to keep the L1T from rolling around.

trick2bbdy6.jpg
Quite innovative and useful; what a great idea !....now if you just added a tiny whip and some high heals she would look good to go ! :D

Sorry all....I'm up late and losing control of what sanity remains.

- regards
 
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jfloewen

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Aug 19, 2007
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(Sorry that this is a bit OT, but I couldn't simply e-mail BentheadTX)

So you prefer the R100 to the Cree as a helmet light? I'm using a DiNotte on my helmet now and am thinking about moving it to the frame (trike) and shifting to one or another of the LxD's. Your comparison would be quite valuable.
 
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