New light kits for select SureFire lights!!!

[luxlover]

Hello Surefire light users,

For the last month I have had the pleasure of evaluating two samples of light adapter kits that will change the way you think about your SureFire (SF) lights. Each kit consists of a light module and one of two types of tailcap. The light module has a medium orange peel reflector, a Cree Q5 WC emitter (samples came with Cree Q2 WC emitters) on a brass heatsink and 2 electrical contact springs. Each tailcap is made of aluminum with an HA II finish (samples are bare aluminum), and has 2 external activation buttons and an internal electronics package. The kits will mate with the following SF light models.....G2, G3, G2Z, Z2, 6P, 9P, C2, C3, L5, L6 and M2. In other words, any SF light using a P60 or P90 lamp module assembly can use the kit. My evaluation was done using my G2 and 6P lights.

The light module replaces the stock SF lamp module assembly in the above lights, and the tailcap replaces the stock SF tailcap. The light modules are identical in each kit. But the tailcaps differ. One uses a ramping brightness level progression (5lm to 220lm, continuous) and has a disorienting strobe. The sample kits have a 5lm-180lm rating, continuous. The other uses a 5 step brightness level progression (5lm-20lm-90lm-140lm-220lm). The sample kits have a 5lm-45lm-90lm-140lm-180lm rating. It has an emergency strobe as well as a disorienting strobe. Both tailcaps are identical on the outside and inside. The electronics are inside the tailcap and not in the light module. The regulation circuit in either tailcap can handle CR123, R123, 17650 or 17670 cells, as long as the voltage doesn't exceed 18v. This means that a 9P light with the use of a single cell extension tube, can use 4xR123 (16.8v), 2x17650 (8.2v), or 2x17670 (8.2v) cells.

Notice the 4 cutouts at the end of each the tailcap. The edges are "slightly" sharp for use as a tactical weapon. But the edges are not sharp enough to cut a user not wearing gloves. This compromise was made to allow usability by anybody. The side button in the pictures does not have a textured button. The production version will have it. The 6 sided machining with flattened corners, is an anti-roll feature. The knurling is shallow in depth.


RAMPING TAILCAP

To operate the ramping mode.....
Press the end button to turn on the light. Quickly press again and hold to ramp from minimum brightness to maximum brightness. Release at any time, and press/hold to go in the opposite direction. At any time, press the side button (a momentary switch) to initiate a burst at the maximum level. Release the side button and return to the previous brightness level. Press the side button from off, to activate a maximum burst. Release to turn off. At any time during the ramping process, release the end button and press it again to turn off the light.

To operate the disorienting strobe.....
Press/hold the side button immediately followed by press/hold the end button to activate the disorienting strobe. Release to return to the previous brightness setting.


5 STEP TAILCAP

To operate the 5 step mode.....Press the end button to turn on the light at the minimum brightness level. Press once for each desired increase in level. The change in level with each press is clear. At the 6th press, the light will turn off. Press the side button to activate maximum burst between steps. Release to return to the previous stepped level. Press the side button at any time for maximum burst. Press the side button to turn off the light at any time.

To operate the disorienting strobe and emergency strobe.....
As in the ramping tailcap, press both buttons to activate the disorienting strobe. Release both buttons to activate the emergency strobe. Press either button to return to the previous brightness level.


These light module kits are the brainchild of Mike of OpticsHQ, and will be available only from http://www.opticshq.com They will retail for $80-$90. They are currently in production, and will be available on his website soon. For those who want the versatility of Mike's kits at a low cost, SF's G2 is the lowest priced light at $36 retail. This means that a "complete lighting solution" can be had for $116 to $126.

The overall length of a G2 with the kit is 5.6" (142.2mm). The original length is 5.14" (130.6mm). The overall length of a 6P with the kit is 5.8" (147.3mm). The original length is 5.20" (132.1mm). The maximum diameter of either tailcap is 1.27" (32.3mm). Both tailcaps tailstand.

For both kits, the estimated runtime using 2xCR123 cells at maximum output is 2 hours (120 mins.).

Per Mike's request, I took beamshots of my 6P and kit using 2xCR123 cells. You will see a beamshot of the 6P side by side with my PR-T bezel on a SF-L4 body. Also, you will see a beamshot of the 6P side by side with my HDS U60 light modded with a Seoul USXOH emitter.

Camera = Canon PowerShot A620 (7.1Mpixel).
F-stop = 2.8.
Shutter speed = 1/250 sec.
Distance between lights = 15" (381mm).
Distance of lights from wall = 10" (254mm).
Distance of camera from wall = 34" (863.6mm).

Light kit/6P on left.....PR-T bezel/L4 body on right

Light kit/6P on left.....HDS w/Seoul emitter on right

Light Kit on 6P

PR-T on an L4 body

HDS U60 w/Seoul emitter

Light kit/6P

Light kit/G2

Light module - heatsink and emitter - front view

Light module complete - external

Tailcap - internal

Tailcap - external

Light module installed in G2

USER IMPRESSIONS
1. Of the two lights I used with the kits, I like the G2 better due to it's lighter weight.
2. The user interface for both versions couldn't be easier. In fact, the ramping tailcap works exactly like that of the Night-Ops Gladius. The ramping is the smoothest and most uniform of any light I have seen. Also, it take a little longer to go from min. to max. or vice versa, than on the Gladius. Note that the production versions of the kits will have a 5lm to 220lm range!
3. The end button has an aggressive rubber surface, and the tactile feel is excellent with or without the use of a glove.
4. The conical springs in the light module and tailcap have been bent inward, so as not to gouge either end of a battery case.
5. It is not possible for the light to come on accidentally from the side button, since it is at a level below that of the flattened hexagonal machining.
6. Both switches have good tactile feel and an audible click, and the endswitch has just the right amount of throw before activation.
7. Looking into the reflector, one can see the emitter within the reflector without any space around it. In fact, the bottom of the reflector is on a flat plane with the emitter, and even that surface is reflectorized.
8. The beam quality is the best I have seen in any light using a Cree emitter. The typical rings are less prominent than on any other Cree equipped light I have seen.
9. The disorienting strobe is slightly slower than that of a Gladius, and the emergency strobe is about one flash per second.
10. In the cigar grip, the hexagonal machining provides a comfortable stop for the index and middle fingers.
11. As seen in the beamshots, the hotspot is intense, making either version ideal for tasks requiring long throw.
12. The proximity of the side and end buttons to each other is good, allowing easy access to both buttons without any finger manipulation. In fact, the side button is in line with one of the 4 tailcap cutouts provided for tailstanding.

All in all, the engineering in these kits is excellent, with everything relating to human engineering having been well thought out.

 

[PhantomPhoton]

With true CPF spirit, I'd might buy them both. (provided they don't cost more than the surefire body) Both would have advantages and disadvantages.
But if I had to choose one I'd say the stepping brightness would be quicker for getting the needed amount of light out.

On a more nagging note
I would wager that some really don't want or need 5 levels of output. Myself I'm generally pretty happy with 2 or 3. Low low and high high. A mid level for decent light at good runtime is okay. The option for strobe is good but many likely won't want a strobe. Beacon is also useful but sometimes not wanted. Some will want Max to Min instead as well. This is where it becomes a sticky situation; everyone wants something a little different.

 

[Preben]

I think 5 levels is more than enough. Make it three levels (one of which really low for reading), Type III anodizing, drop the strobe and get rid of all sharp edges, and I'm in for one. (Oh yeah, I'm most likely in for one anyway ;-P )

 

[karlthev]

Well hot damn Jeff, nice review!! I was wondering what the devil you've been doing!!



Karl

 

[luxlover]

With true CPF spirit, I'd might buy them both. (provided they don't cost more than the Surefire body) Both would have advantages and disadvantages.
But if I had to choose one I'd say the stepping brightness would be quicker for getting the needed amount of light out.

On a more nagging note
I would wager that some really don't want or need 5 levels of output. Myself I'm generally pretty happy with 2 or 3. Low low and high high. A mid level for decent light at good runtime is okay. The option for strobe is good, but many likely won't want a strobe. Beacon is also useful, but sometimes not wanted. Some will want Max to Min instead as well. This is where it becomes a sticky situation; everyone wants something a little different.

Note that if you could get a body and head without a tailcap, as unusual as that may be, that would be all you need to utilize either kit.

True, the five step is as quick as you can click levels. The ramping kit is nice and slow, offering more light levels between the 5lm and 220lm range.

A guy like you couldn't be too overwhelmed by owning a five level light when only needing two levels. The spacing between the five levels is distinct.

Keep in mind that the way to initiate either strobe requires a simultaneous press/hold of both buttons. You never have to use either strobe because of this. Some lights cycle their brightness levels before and after their strobe function. That is not intelligent design.

I will ask Mike if there is any plan to have a min. to max. step function. Know that there are practical reasons why all features and functions we may happen to think up cannot be incorporated in a single light. The ability is there, but the cost is prohibitive!

Jeff

 

[luxlover]

Well hot damn Jeff, nice review!! I was wondering what the devil you've been doing!

Karl

Thank you kindly, Sir. The sample evaluation business is laden with all kinds of hardships and obstacles.

Now that a month long project is complete.....back to my prime objective, and you know what THAT is!!!

Jeff

 

[luxlover]

I think 5 levels is more than enough. Make it three levels (one of which really low for reading), Type III anodizing, drop the strobe and get rid of all sharp edges, and I'm in for one. (Oh yeah, I'm most likely in for one anyway ;-P )

I would agree that 5 levels would suffice. You can grab the max. faster with the 5 stepper than with the ramping. But those who want more of a selection will have it in the ramping unit. I don't think that an HAIII finish could be applied without affecting the price point.

Jeff

 

[cfromc]

I voted for ramping but I'm not really sure. I know this is perfect timing though as a have a C3 I was about to put a Wolf-Eyes 4-mode into but this looks a lot better. Only thing is, I would need an HAIII tailcap. This thing sounds awesome and I'm sure other people would want the HAIII. If there is enough interest and it costs a few bucks more, I wonder if it is a possibility....?

 

[tsl]

On either of these tailcaps, when you turn the light off and then back on at a later time, will the light turn on at the last level of brightness, or will it always turn on to a particular preset level?

 

[luxlover]

I voted for ramping but I'm not really sure. I know this is perfect timing though as a have a C3 I was about to put a Wolf-Eyes 4-mode into but this looks a lot better. Only thing is, I would need an HAIII tailcap. This thing sounds awesome and I'm sure other people would want the HAIII. If there is enough interest and it costs a few bucks more, I wonder if it is a possibility....?

It seems that HAIII is the preferred finish for these kits. I myself was wondering why HAII was selected by Mike. Look at this page of the SureFire website for the answer..... http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/max_segment_listing/disp/strfnbr/6/sesent/00#battery-incand
Of the lights that are compatible with the kits, only the C2, C3, M2 and L5 have an HAIII finish. The others are either Nitrolon or have an HAII finish. I think that these kits were selected to be used with the more budget lights in SF's arsenal. I will ask Mike if he thinks that changing from HAII to HAIII would be possiible, being that production has already started.

Jeff

 

[karlthev]

Well, glad to see that you're on top of this Jeff, as well as up at this hour!!:nana:


Karl

 

[luxlover]

On either of these tailcaps, when you turn the light off and then back on at a later time, will the light turn on at the last level of brightness, or will it always turn on to a particular preset level?

With either tailcap, turning off the light will not return the brightness level to what it was before it was turned off. In the case of the ramping version, it will start ramping at the minimum level. In the case of the 5 step version, it will start at step 1, the minimum level.

I suggested to Mike that there be a simple memory feature incorporated to allow this, but he said that the amount of programming needed to accomplish this enhancement would create a problem for the engineers. As it stands, there is no memory of any type in the circuitry, meaning that when the light is off there is no trace current draw from the power source to maintain any previous setting. With these kits, OFF means that the circuit is totally isolated from the power source.

Jeff

 

[luxlover]

Well, glad to see that you're on top of htis Jeff, as well as up at this hour!!:nana:

Karl

I woke up a few minutes ago, well rested and feeling like a June bride. I am curious to see where this thread will lead.

Jeff

 

[cfromc]

I, for one, am glad that the light does NOT have the memory feature. I want a light that starts at the same level (low) every time so I am not surprised and blinded when I turn it on. Also, since the circuit is truly off, the batteries should last longer. The light will be a vehicle light and may not be used for weeks or months at a time; I don't want any draw on the batteries while not in use.

I have to admit, I'm excited about these light kits :twothumbs. Any rough idea when these will start to be available? (Paypal is ready)

 

[luxlover]

I, for one, am glad that the light does NOT have the memory feature. I want a light that starts at the same level (low) every time so I am not surprised and blinded when I turn it on. Also, since the circuit is truly off, the batteries should last longer. The light will be a vehicle light and may not be used for weeks or months at a time; I don't want any draw on the batteries while not in use.

I have to admit, I'm excited about these light kits :twothumbs. Any rough idea when these will start to be available? (PayPal is ready)

Good reason to start a light on low.

The amount of juice drawn to retain a setting in memory is usually in the microamps, which is effectively nothing especially when you are talking months without the light being used.

Mike told me that he will get shipment in 45 to 90 days, so let your PayPal account rest some more. This is a sure thing, and is NOT vaporware stuff.

Jeff

 

[BargainMonkey]

I've been away from CPF for a while and come back to find this. Looks very exciting. I'm voting for ramping because I'd like that best, but the 5 steps sound like it should work fine. I just want to clarify one thing, does the light need to be turned on for the side button to give max brightness? Can I pull the light out of my pocket and either press and hold the side for max brightness or click the end for min brightness? Any ideas if this is going to be a regular production item or is it going to be a limited time, jump on it while it's available, kind of thing? Thanks luxlover.

 

[Xygen]

Wow! That sounds very promising. But I wonder what the lightmodule for the L5 and L6 will look like! A complete head?

 

[luxlover]

I've been away from CPF for a while and come back to find this. Looks very exciting. I'm voting for ramping, because I'd like that best. But the 5 steps sound like it should work fine. I just want to clarify one thing. Does the light need to be turned on for the side button to give max brightness? Can I pull the light out of my pocket and either press and hold the side for max brightness, or click the end for min. brightness? Any ideas if this is going to be a regular production item or is it going to be a limited time, "jump on it while it's available", kind of thing? Thanks, luxlover.

Welcome back, and let's boogie.....
The potential of these kits is enormous. Those who already own an SF light will have a multi-level top notch LED solution. Those who want one, will have to buy a SF light. My G2 works greatly with either kit, and it is the least expensive SF light. Everybody wins!

The side button in either version initiates a maximum burst of light every time you press it.....period! Both versions turn on at minimum brightness when you press the end button. These tailcaps are a pleasure to use.

As long as SF is in business, and keeps making the models listed or new models with the same thread patterns on both ends, these kits will be in demand. Why wouldn't they be? Beats me!

Jeff

 

[luxlover]

Wow! That sounds very promising. But I wonder what the light module for the L5 and L6 will look like! A complete head?

Good question. In the 2 SF lights I have been using, the light module fits inside the head like a glove. I will bug Mike tomorrow about the method of conversion with SF's L5 and L6 lights. He may have had other beta testers use the kits on these. I am as much in the dark about this as are you! Stay tuned........

Jeff

 

[Xygen]

Great! Thank you!