Build Log: Double Triple XP-G R5

[sosemot728]

Ive been working on this design for a while, its a double, triple XP-G R5 Bicycle light which hopefully should also double as a dive light. I am aiming for 2200 lumen's. I have taken design inspiration from the "K-Light" posted earlier on these forums and made something that suits more to my purpose.

I would like as much input as possible regarding the design of this light.

It will consist of two cutter boards run in series, and linked in series

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut939

Powered by a single Bflex running with an input voltage of approx 21v Either 6*18650 3.7v batteries or 7 * RCR123A 3.0v in a custom housing I am also developing.

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut750

 

[sosemot728]

reserved for CFD

 

[Hill]

Matt,

Good luck on that build. I was thinking of doing a "triple triple" in a mag (C or D) host. I am interested in how much throw/flood you will be getting (are you using optics?) Those triple boards are pretty expensive, but I really like the compact form. And the output of >1000 lm each is impressive.

As for drivers, I have used taskled drivers and they are very good, as is the technical support from George. You may want to email him directly to check if the setup is the best. He has several boards available now, and there may be one that is better, although the setup you have looks good.

You may also consider a 1A shark buck from the Sandwhich shoppe, but I don't know the max input V at the moment.

I'm sure others will chime in as well...

Post more pics of your progress!!!

 

[sosemot728]

Update: Reduced overall size to 58mmx68mmx40mm

Sent to get a rapid prototype in plastic created today.

 

[sosemot728]

Has anyone had some experience building a mount for bike lights? (cnc design or otherwise) I am also looking for the possibility of using a pre-made mount from another company

Something similar to this
http://www.shop.cygolite.com/product.sc?productId=68&categoryId=31

 

[sosemot728]

Just got a quote from the machinist. It will be about $100 per complete unit (anodized in any color, although im leaning towards grey or black)

Is anyone interested in getting a few units? (I can offer just the shell or a full kit form if a deposit is paid)

 

[Linger]

$100 for casing including lens and o-rings, switch, glands, tested to 100m. No electronics or internals included? Seems like external battery pack?
Is it set up for the triple 20mm lenses? (same as 'Moddoo Triple' in my sig. I just built one up using 3P Rebel 100's. Running 3P was a treat for wiring, but now it makes a great 18650 drop-in (or will when the board is installed) The triple lens is great, but is there any feedback on someone diving with it? Usual reflectors used but I can really see the strength in an optic)
I'm not sure exactly what you're offering.

 

[sosemot728]

$100 is really just the machining including

Aluminium case (3 piece)
Appropriate M2-0.4 screws pre-tapped
Silicone O-rings x3

Glass not included - Needs 2x UCL 24.7x1.85mm http://www.flashlightlens.com/str/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=ucl_lens

No optics, electronics, mount. I have left the mounting option open. as well as the wire exit point (any suggestions?)

I cant pressure test it to 100m as I don't have equipment, nor a prototype unit. All I can guarantee at this stage is "Water-resistance" i.e. splash-proof. Testing will come later.

External battery pack and switch yes. It needs 20~22v (so a 22.2v lipo or 7x3.0v lion cells)

Yes 20mm carlco optics

Wide
Narrow
Medium

 

[sosemot728]

Can anyone fault these two o-ring orientations, I have calculated the correct channel size based on standard practice. Does anyone have any experience?

1/16" O-ring CS (approx actual size ~1.78mm)
0.09" ~2.3mm Channel Width
0.05" ~1.3mm Channel Depth
0.01" ~0.25mm Channel Rounding

 

[Linger]

beyond me, sorry.
Two are usually a great idea, but I understand you're approaching this from another direction entirely.

 

[sosemot728]

beyond me, sorry.
Two are usually a great idea, but I understand you're approaching this from another direction entirely.

I tried to make two fit. but because of the size restrictions I placed on myself. I cant make them fit...

I am hoping the front section will compress enough over the edge of the glass to seal

What did you do in your Light in you sig? (is there no o-rings?)

 

[Packhorse]

From a sealing point of view the O ring should be beind the lens instead of in front of it.

As it is the single O ring is sealing against 3 parts Body, lens and bezel. And sealing 2 potential sources of leaks.
If its behind the lens it is only sealing on 2 surfaces and 1 direction of leak.

 

[sosemot728]

From a sealing point of view the O ring should be beind the lens instead of in front of it.

As it is the single O ring is sealing against 3 parts Body, lens and bezel. And sealing 2 potential sources of leaks.
If its behind the lens it is only sealing on 2 surfaces and 1 direction of leak.

Could you explain via a diagram, I am confused what you mean

 

[sosemot728]

I could do something like this, but I have to change the diameter of the glass holder, which I don't like to do. I have no experience in designing a flat o-ring support.



As opposed the original design

 

[Geir68]

From a sealing point of view the O ring should be behind the lens instead of in front of it.

If you by lens mean behind the UCL glass, then I agree with you.

The way I understand the drawing, the tripple lens and light engine is in the deep circular cavity behind the UCL glass. There is no reason to seal between the bezel and housing.

 

[TorchBoy]

I would like to know if there are any other options available in terms of a driver board,

You don't quite get around to explaining what you actually want the driver to do. If I assume multiple modes... http://www.videofoundry.co.nz/ianma...erlist.php?v_in_min=21&leds=6&modes=multimode then yes, there is another option that might just scrape in with your maximum (fully charged) battery voltage (you might need to drop it a bit), but it only has three modes.

reserved for CFD

:shrug:

 

[Linger]

I think the idea is that the compression will be against the flat of the lens, o-ring pressed between lens and body should stop ingress of water.
VS an o-ring between lens and outer bezel, no contact with body, o-ring outside of compression.
Want to make the forces at play work for you, such as increasing the seal as pressure builds (and 'vacum*' inside 'pulls*' oring to seal even better)

*illustration only, there's no physics vector for 'pull' but it helps conceptualize / visualize the challenge.

 

[sosemot728]

VS an o-ring between lens and outer bezel, no contact with body, o-ring outside of compression

If you mean the picture with only one o-ring. The purpose of the wide channel is to allow the silicone o-ring to stretch radially (i.e. flatten in the channel) and cover both the body, bezel and glass (including the gap between the glass and body)

This is what I am trying to achieve by using only one o-ring.

 

[sosemot728]

Update:

Added more screws to front and rear faces, I am trying to ensure even distribution of force to seal, the M2-0.4 Stainless steel screws are very cheap....

Added optic cad model

Added reference cable gland, Should this stay on the rear plate? Or should it be on the underside of the main body?

Switch will be externally mounted. The cable gland will have a 5 core cable enough for power, switch and indicator.

Does anyone want to recommend any design changes?

 

[sosemot728]

Got bored playing with solidworks, so created some renderings.