2xAA or 3xAA LED flashlight choices

[FrontRanger]

I discovered this forum about a week ago and have already learned several things here. To all the contributors: thank you.

I'm trying to select the best LED flashlight that fits my requirements. My criteria are that it must be able to run on either 2xAA or 3xAA NiMH cells, and that the runtime is at least 2 hours. I would like to find the models that offer the highest luminous flux. I've searched around, and the best one I have found is the Fenix L2D-CE at 135 lx. But since there is a dizzying array of models available, and the members here are more knowledgeable than I am, I wanted to ask: Is anything brighter out there?

I do like the variable output levels of the L2D-CE and the ability to tailstand, but those are not "must-have" features for me. I also care somewhat about price, since I may be getting several.

Thank you for your recommendations.

Stephen

 

[TigerhawkT3]

Yeah, the L2D-CE is fine. Go for the "RB100" version.

 

[john2551]

This is a 3AA light that has 580 lumens: http://elektrolumens.com/FireLion/FireLion-III.html

 

[Gunner12]

The brightest, well priced, one right now(non modded) is probably the Fenix L2D-CE Q5(150+ lumen out the front). Q5 is the bin code of the LED. The previous P4 Cree used in the L2D-CE is about 20-30% less efficient then the Q5(But still much brighter then many people expect from 2 AA batteries). There is also a 8% off code when you buy over $20 at Fenix store, "CPF8".

The Firelion and Peak first respond are probably brighter, and so will a 1 NiMh powered light with the RV7 board. But that will be more expensive/require modding.

:welcome:

 

[FrontRanger]

Thanks, Gunner12. I didn't think there was anything better than the L2D-CE until you mentioned the Q5 version, which I ended up ordering. Until you mentioned that, I had been considering ordering one of the lights that had a lower-bin XR-E and replacing it with one of the $10 Q5's on dealextreme, but now I don't even have to get out my soldering iron. And thanks for the coupon code, too.

Stephen

 

[MikeSalt]

If you do not want all the daft modes of the L2D-CE, why not consider the L2T V2.0 RB 80? It is a similar form factor, but it simply has 'low' and 'high' selected by turning the bezel. The rear switch is simple 'on' or 'off' with no silly modes, and it is a tactical (forward) switch.

Output is 140 lumens/15 lumens. 2.4 hours on the high, 32 hours on the low.

EDIT: Sorry, I misread your post, I thought you were complaining about the dizzying array of modes with the L2D, not models . I'll leave this here though for those who are not looking for a multi-mode.

 

[MTHall51]

This is a 3AA light that has 580 lumens: http://elektrolumens.com/FireLion/FireLion-III.html

That was a real eye opener for me. I was just wondering if there was such a thing a bright LED that took AA batteries. Did I misunderstand, or we talking "normal" AA batts, and not Lithiums or something else?

 

[Gaffle]

I'm trying to select the best LED flashlight that fits my requirements. My criteria are that it must be able to run on either 2xAA or 3xAA NiMH cells, and that the runtime is at least 2 hours. I would like to find the models that offer the highest luminous flux. I've searched around, and the best one I have found is the Fenix L2D-CE at 135 lx.

Firstly, from my understanding Fenix rates its lights a bit high regarding lumens (I am assuming that when you say 135 lx, the lx means lumens). They rate the lumens at the emitter instead of being "out the front". You loose some of the lumens due to the reflector/lens.

Some people hate the WWH (White Wall Hunting) way of measuring beam patterns, but you kind of have to check out a beam before you purchase (if possible) because of manufacturer inflation of stats.

It is too bad Elektrolumens has discontinued the Lucidius. Lucidius was either a 2AA or 3AA. The 3AA was meant to throw the most with no regard to runtime (which was something like 2 hours I believe). I know that the 3AA was really bright compared to the competition. I only bring up the Lucidius because or your 3AA criteria. A 3AA light is becoming rare these days. You may be able to purchase one in the B/S/T section of the Marketplace. Also, Lucidius has one mode only, bright.

 

[john2551]

Yes, we are talking normal 1.5v alkalines or normal 1.2v rechargeables nimh.

 

[john2551]

That was a real eye opener for me. I was just wondering if there was such a thing a bright LED that took AA batteries. Did I misunderstand, or we talking "normal" AA batts, and not Lithiums or something else?

Here more info on the 3AA version: http://www.illuminationforums.com/IlluminationForums/showthread.php?t=98

 

[FrontRanger]

Firstly, from my understanding Fenix rates its lights a bit high regarding lumens (I am assuming that when you say 135 lx, the lx means lumens). They rate the lumens at the emitter instead of being "out the front". You loose some of the lumens due to the reflector/lens.

Some people hate the WWH (White Wall Hunting) way of measuring beam patterns, but you kind of have to check out a beam before you purchase (if possible) because of manufacturer inflation of stats.

It is too bad Elektrolumens has discontinued the Lucidius. Lucidius was either a 2AA or 3AA. The 3AA was meant to throw the most with no regard to runtime (which was something like 2 hours I believe). I know that the 3AA was really bright compared to the competition. I only bring up the Lucidius because or your 3AA criteria. A 3AA light is becoming rare these days. You may be able to purchase one in the B/S/T section of the Marketplace. Also, Lucidius has one mode only, bright.

Thanks, Gaffle. Yes, I meant "lm" where I wrote "lx". I hadn't heard of the Lucidius. It sounds good, but I do like to have at least one dimming level. I probably should have added that to my original criteria.

 

[Yenster]

This is a 3AA light that has 580 lumens: http://elektrolumens.com/FireLion/FireLion-III.html

I can't say I believe those specs...580 lumens for around two hours. There's not enough power in an 18650 or 3 AA NiMh to drive it that long. The runtime will probably either be about 50 minutes with good regulation, or the output will drop fast and dim over two hours.

 

[john2551]

580 is bulb lumens, out the front (~65%) should be ~375. Same like this: http://www.pts-flashlights.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-99-118-6373 570 "bulb" lumens.

 

[ElektroLumens]

Firstly, from my understanding Fenix rates its lights a bit high regarding lumens (I am assuming that when you say 135 lx, the lx means lumens). They rate the lumens at the emitter instead of being "out the front". You loose some of the lumens due to the reflector/lens.

Some people hate the WWH (White Wall Hunting) way of measuring beam patterns, but you kind of have to check out a beam before you purchase (if possible) because of manufacturer inflation of stats.

It is too bad Elektrolumens has discontinued the Lucidius. Lucidius was either a 2AA or 3AA. The 3AA was meant to throw the most with no regard to runtime (which was something like 2 hours I believe). I know that the 3AA was really bright compared to the competition. I only bring up the Lucidius because or your 3AA criteria. A 3AA light is becoming rare these days. You may be able to purchase one in the B/S/T section of the Marketplace. Also, Lucidius has one mode only, bright.

I temporarily discontinued a number of products, including the Lucidus. I did this so I can focus on catching up with back orders. The Lucidus and DeCree will return when I am up to speed on delivering product.

3AA are often shunned because of they are rather long, and people a lot of times want a regulated flashlight. Many do not realize that with NIMH AA batteries, the discharge is flat and regulation is somewhat moot (IMHO).

Wayne

 

[Yenster]

580 is bulb lumens, out the front (~65%) should be ~375. Same like this: http://www.pts-flashlights.com/products/product.aspx?pid=1-99-118-6373 570 "bulb" lumens.

The 580 bulb lumens would mean about 190 lumens from each LED. Assuming these are the higher U-bin SSCs, that means around 850mA each. And assuming 100% efficiency (though 90% may be the best case), that means 2550mA at around 3.6V. And assuming perfect regulation (not really possible), a single 18650 could only power this for a maximum of 1 hour (theoretical). But in reality, the inefficiencies will shorten the runtime. The same for 3 x 2500mAh NiMh AA (1.2V). So I believe those specs are well overstated.

That Thunder A, however, uses 2 x 18650 batteries, so it will run closer to the 2 hour specs.

 

[ElektroLumens]

The 580 bulb lumens would mean about 190 lumens from each LED. Assuming these are the higher U-bin SSCs, that means around 850mA each. And assuming 100% efficiency (though 90% may be the best case), that means 2550mA at around 3.6V. And assuming perfect regulation (not really possible), a single 18650 could only power this for a maximum of 1 hour (theoretical). But in reality, the inefficiencies will shorten the runtime. The same for 3 x 2500mAh NiMh AA (1.2V). So I believe those specs are well overstated.

That Thunder A, however, uses 2 x 18650 batteries, so it will run closer to the 2 hour specs.

The Thunder is a lot bigger than the FireLion-III with the 18650, so not really the same thing, but the 3AA is longer and may be similar to the Thunder?. The 18650, according to what I've read, can easily provide 2 to 3 amps. It really depends on the bin being used. Right now I'm using USW0H. The run time needs to be tested again. 2 hours run time may have been with higher Vf LEDs, and a lower brightness with longer run time. That's what I used in the first FireLions I made. Three AA NIMH can also provide 2+ amps, but it is hard on them.

I did make a flashlight, I called FireStorm-420. It used two 18650 batteries, and the LEDs were wired in pairs, and I used 20mm reflectors. I also have made a FireStorm-427, but using 27mm reflectors and a lux reading of 13,000+.. Direct drive. When the voltage of the batteries is so close to the Vf of the LEDs, using regulation is not needed, IMHO. A buck/boost would probably be used in such a settup, the best efficiency of any regulator is at 95% under optimal conditions, and would be a buck regulator. A buck boost, or boost regulator, does not come up near that level of efficiency, probably more like 80%, perhaps at best 90%. and worse. So a minimum of 10% of energy is wasted in regulation.

Wayne

 

[Yenster]

Hi Wayne, looks like some neat stuff you have there. I was simply looking at the numbers and doing the math on the specs. I'm sure your lights are very capable of producing that much light with fresh batteries. (I like that flame-thrower picture)

 

[BentHeadTX]

My brightest 2AA or 3AA light is the Peak First Responder with optional 1AA extender. With 3AA it pushes the three SSC P4 U LEDs at a total of 2.5 watts for over 200 lumens. LEDs give more lumens per watt when under driven.

For a 2AA max blast of LED chaos, it would be the Fenix L2D Q5 (for now) All depends on what you want, if a throw monster is in the cards... maybe wait for the T series for a larger reflector.