VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
Well, it's finally time for me to build a torch.. I've been a member here for a while and I'm mostly into fixed LED lighting.. but I have a lathe and the experience building LED drivers so I figure I'd better have a torch if I'm gonna be any kind of member here 
I just ordered 3 CREE R2s and 3 reflectors.
Looking around for drivers I don't really see any good options though.. The only good switching driver I see on KD/DX is the kennan.. but it's got a fixed output.. do people mod these for an adjustable output possibly?
I've also heard of the shark if I wanted to go with a boost topology and a fewer number of larger cells.. but I don't know where to buy it? I think I saw someone say it was $20? if so I wouldn't buy it.. as I can make my own custom driver for less than that... which is pretty much what I've led myself to....
I'm thinking a buck driver with 6 AA sized 3.6v lithium cells (I don't know much about batteries either) would be a good candidate.. I designed the driver for input voltage of 16.5-25.2 with a pot to adjust the current up to 1.2A.. current dimming is much more efficient, and more desirable for me than PWM dimming in a battery operated situation.. Although the chip I am using has an optional PWM input, I won't use it.
So what I've designed so far is a 90% efficient driver that can do just that.. here are some graphs to show simulated input and output:
First graph is output at 4 different levels.. although it will be able to dim further than 350mA.. I just used standard values plus the 1.2A overdrive.. low ripple current of 15% is good for thermal management. The next 4 graphs show the current being drawn from the cells at the respective outputs.. 1 hour or so runtime at max power from 600mAh cells I suppose? ..and maybe somewhere up around 3 hours @ 350mA power.
Last graph shows approximate Vf output at 4 different levels.
Does this sound like a good setup? Is there something better out there?.. I somehow doubt it, since this isn't made for profit and it uses all high quality parts... but I want to check.. I'd hate to spend my time etching the boards and soldering everything together to find out there was a commercial model that did the same thing for half what I spent to make my own...
I just ordered 3 CREE R2s and 3 reflectors.
Looking around for drivers I don't really see any good options though.. The only good switching driver I see on KD/DX is the kennan.. but it's got a fixed output.. do people mod these for an adjustable output possibly?
I've also heard of the shark if I wanted to go with a boost topology and a fewer number of larger cells.. but I don't know where to buy it? I think I saw someone say it was $20? if so I wouldn't buy it.. as I can make my own custom driver for less than that... which is pretty much what I've led myself to....
I'm thinking a buck driver with 6 AA sized 3.6v lithium cells (I don't know much about batteries either) would be a good candidate.. I designed the driver for input voltage of 16.5-25.2 with a pot to adjust the current up to 1.2A.. current dimming is much more efficient, and more desirable for me than PWM dimming in a battery operated situation.. Although the chip I am using has an optional PWM input, I won't use it.
So what I've designed so far is a 90% efficient driver that can do just that.. here are some graphs to show simulated input and output:

First graph is output at 4 different levels.. although it will be able to dim further than 350mA.. I just used standard values plus the 1.2A overdrive.. low ripple current of 15% is good for thermal management. The next 4 graphs show the current being drawn from the cells at the respective outputs.. 1 hour or so runtime at max power from 600mAh cells I suppose? ..and maybe somewhere up around 3 hours @ 350mA power.
Last graph shows approximate Vf output at 4 different levels.
Does this sound like a good setup? Is there something better out there?.. I somehow doubt it, since this isn't made for profit and it uses all high quality parts... but I want to check.. I'd hate to spend my time etching the boards and soldering everything together to find out there was a commercial model that did the same thing for half what I spent to make my own...
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