4 AAA DoubleBarrel 4 LED Conversion

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X-CalBR8

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 14, 2001
Messages
1,098
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TN, USA
Hi guys. Just thought I would take a few minutes and post about my latest flashlight mod. This time it was a 4 AAA Energizer DoubleBarrel that went under the knife (well, Dremel Tool actually). I modded it to use 4 20 degree Nichia Whites. I had already modded one of these to use 1 LED and was very pleased with it, but I just thought I would experiment and add a few more LEDs. (In my best Tim the Toolman Taylor) More power, Arr Arr Arrrrr!
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Well, time to get to the details. I used a couple of ideas that I had been kicking around for a while and came up with a couple of new ideas in the process. The first thing to be done, of course, was to rewire the DoubleBarrel from it's original 3volt configuration to a 6volt configuration. Then I made a dummy AAA cell to bring the 6volts down to 4.5volts. Also, anyone that has ever done this mod on a DoubleBarrel will notice that you will have to drill out the center of one of the endcaps so that you can reverse the direction of one of the batteries. This is a protection feature that Energizer uses to make sure that you don't reverse the direction of the batteries accidentally, but in this case, you want to be able to reverse the direction of a couple of the batteries so the protection has to be defeated.

I finally got to try out my Penny heat sink idea that I'd wanted to try for a while and, in the process, I figured out a new twist on my original idea. First I drilled a single hole in the middle of the Penny instead of using several holes like Silviron did in his Penny heat sink mod. (BTW, kudos to Silviron for being the first (to the best of my knowledge) to put my Penny heat sink idea to practical use). In this LED arrangement, you may notice that I turned all Anodes (Positive leads) to the center and all Cathodes (Negative leads) to the outside. This allowed me to easily solder all negative leads to the inside of the hole in the Penny and all positive leads to the center of the hole. Probably the neatest thing about this configuration is the fact that you don't have to use heatshrink tubing anywhere and you don't have to worry about leads accidentally touching where they aren't supposed to. I used Epoxy to glue the 4 LEDs together, angling them slightly inward. This is a little trick that I learned from studying the 2 LED LEDCORP bulb. It makes for a more concentrated spot. I also used my handy dandy Dremel Tool to polish the Penny so that it would solder more easily.

Now on to the electrical end of things. I was really surprised by the results of the current draw tests. All 4 LEDs together drew less amperage than my 2 LED Turtlelite 2. Of course about a fourth of the amperage of 2 LED LEDCORP "bulb" in the Turtlelite 2 is sucked up by just having a resistor present, but these amperage draw test results were still surprising. Using 3 AA batteries that tested at 4.5volts, I got a current draw of 68ma on my 4LED module. Using 3 AAA batteries that tested at 4.4volts, I got a current draw of 62ma on my 4LED module. This is compared to the 90ma current draw of the Turtlelite 2 running at 6.1volts. This seems strange to me that a 4LED module would pull less amperage than a 2 LED even taking into consideration the resistor in the 2 LED bulb. The amount of light produced is about equal to the Turtlelite 2 and at a third less of the amperage. That is much better results than I had expected to find. I wonder if the 4 LEDs being heat sinked so well would make such a difference in power usage. I thought that with 4.5volts going to 4 LEDs that the current draw would be around 100ma at least. At 3.6volts they are expected to pull 20-25ma per LED so I wonder why they are pulling only 15ma each at a higher voltage. The only thing I can think of is that these have a good heat sink. Any ideas on why this is?

Well, that about covers it. If anyone has questions, answers, general comments, Etc. feel free to post. Sorry about the quality of the pics. I don't have a digital camera yet and for some reason my scanner didn't do so great of a job this time. I may try to add better pics later.
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I forgot to mention in my original post that this module can be used in either the AA or AAA Energizer DoubleBarrel. In this particular instance I just happened to be modding the AAA model. In both cases you have to cut the reflector enough to allow the module to fit. I used my dremel tool to do the cutting on the reflector, but a Drill press might work just as well. I still don't have a drill press yet so I didn't get to try it that way.
 
Nice mod. Since you have the heat sink in place, have you thought about trying to use all 4 batteries so you have 6V available? You will probably get more light and don't have to worry about damaging the LEDs or of thermal runaway since you have the heatsink. Or with 6V, you might put in a small resistor to set the current at the maximum permissible level, say... 100mA?
 
Steelwolf: Hmm… Interesting idea. I hadn't considered trying to see how far I could possibly push them. Of course, I'm still trying to figure out the mystery of why they are only pulling 15ma each with 4.5volts going to them. I will try sending 6volts to them and then do an amperage test. If they are only pulling 15ma at 4.5volts then there is a good chance that they could handle 6volts (I hope). I'll give it a try and post my results in a little while.
 
How long did it take to solder the cathode leads to the penny? There is a chance, if you got them real hot for a longer-than-normal soldering time, that you cooked the poor little dies causing sub-atomic damage and that is why they aren`t pulling as much current now. Heat sinking or not, a white LED hooked to 4.5 volts should pull over 40mA easily, maybe even 60. So your array of 4 pulling 60mA total is odd, and all I can think of to explain is they have been damaged during the soldering by excess heat for too long.

Just a thought...

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Chris: I thought that something like that could have happened to, but I looked at all 4 LEDs while wearing very dark sunglasses and all 4 LEDs seem to burn uniformly. If one LED was damaged, it looks like it would stand out like a sore thumb so I'm still puzzled.
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Well, the results are in and they are still quite puzzling. With 4 AA alkaline batteries measured at 6.1volts, it pulls 175ma or 43.75ma per LED. With 4 AAA batteries measured at 5.8volts, it pulls 145ma or 36.25ma per LED. With just the 4 AAA batteries powering it, it puts out about twice the light of my Turtlelite 2 with Lithiums! I'm still unsure of what to make of this. Looks like I will spend a while pondering on this one.
 
Xcal, an idea...

Have you checked the resistance of the dummy battery you made?

I just hooked 3 new AAAs to 4 good Nichias.
148ma @ 4.6v (under load).

After that, I didn't dare hook up 4 batteries.
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BTW, 155ma with 3 AAs.

Check your dummy battery and see if it has any resistance.

Hope this helps.
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What I would like to see is somebody doing a mod on the 4 AA double barrel using "N" cells. You can use a total of 6 N's, but leave the direction they face the way they normally do. Then, you will have 4.5 volts, but have double the amperage available. This would keep the voltage from sagging as much under load (I think), and allow for longer battery life. I think this might be a little more expensive, but those of you who do the whole "as many LEDs as I can fit in there" thing, you should be able to afford a few extra N cells. If anybody trys it and uses 6 N's, let us know how it turns out.
 
Hello Xcal -from SoCal
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Just 4 your general info. only..
Don't know xactly why those readings r so abnormally LOW
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, but just for kicks I took a couple of amp draw measurements on my Lightwave 2000.
4 x new Dura Ultra AA powering that 4-5600mcd white module reads 310ma! (total) or of course, 77ma ea.
4 x 2/3 Nimh GP-(same module) reads 140ma. (total) or 35ma ea. Really Bright!-with no heat buildup or "bluing" of the LEDs..
So, what I am guessing, is that like Chris says, something has happened to those Leds during your assembly process.
-Forgetting the readings, and using "Kentucky Windage"
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, if the Leds aren't getting hot or changing color after 5 min.or so of operation, I personally wouldn't worry about it, and just go ahead and use it and enjoy it.
Caveat -after doing the measurements I just did on my own light.I sure can't recommend trying to run that set-up with new LEDs on 6v. though...
(sans resistor)
 
Yeah, looks like even though it's not pulling too much current at 6volts, I will still have to go back to 4.5volts because the penny is getting so hot I can't touch it! Oh well. At 4.5 volts it runs cool, still puts out as much light as my Turtlelite 2 and burns a third less current so I'm still happy with the results.
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Just in case these LEDs were damaged during soldering, I plan to use silver paste next time and a heat gun to make the connections. The silver paste should solder at a much lower temperature (says it can be cured by the flame of a cigarette lighter) than with a normal soldering iron. Has anyone used silver paste on any LED projects yet? I've just read about what this stuff can do and have no real life experience with it yet. I was planning on getting some anyway to try out on some SMDs that I'm going to be working on soon.
 
Suggestion for your next similar situation: use Circuit Works conductive epoxy-part #OW2400 -Great stuff.
 
Videocal: Thanks for the suggestion. I think I remember seeing some silver epoxy in my newest Mouser Electronics catalog, but the only thing is, it says that it only has a 1-year shelf life and I'm afraid of how old the stuff is before I buy it. I might still go out on a limb and give it a try sometime. I'm especially interested in trying to find an alternative to soldering when it comes to SMDs. So far, I've considered trying the following: Silver pens, Silver paste and the Silver epoxy. To bad these things are so new that almost nobody has had any experience with them so it's hard to find any info without just trying them all for myself. Phantomas2002 also made the comment that some of these products might have a high resistance to take into consideration. I guess we will have to run a few test to get the real lowdown on this subject.
 
X-Cal, I've used the epoxy for a couple of years, and if you mix up only as much as you need for the job, and close up the two separate tubes after using it, it'll stay fresh and usable indefinitely. The only real drawback is that it's a little expensive (about $18.), but a little does a lot, it dries in 15 min.,and cures in 24 hours to the hardness of a hooker's heart.
 
Videocal: Have you done resistance test on the Silver Epoxy to see if it has a high resistance? What all have you used it on? Do you think it would be good for use in connecting SMD devices? Thanks for all info on this. I would like to be well informed before forking over nearly $20.00 for this stuff. It's definitely got my interest up though.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by X-CalBR8:
Videocal: Have you done resistance test on the Silver Epoxy to see if it has a high resistance? What all have you used it on? Do you think it would be good for use in connecting SMD devices? Thanks for all info on this. I would like to be well informed before forking over nearly $20.00 for this stuff. It's definitely got my interest up though.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

On circuits involving more than 2ma or so, I've found resistance to be negligible. And yes, I've used it successfully on SMDs.
-This stuff has bailed me out of more than a few jams working with costly-to-replace equipment!
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I found out some info on the silver epoxy. I read some specs that said "resistivity as low as 0.001 Ohm-cm." Also one of the suggested uses that it listed was for SMDs. Looks like this stuff is the way to go.
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Thanks for suggesting it Videocal.
 

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