4 x AA Light?

I'd buy a light like the Fenix TK-40 but make it a short stubby 4AA light so that it looks like the Dorcy Solid state that someone posted a pic of on page one of this thread. So keep it thick like the TK-40, but a couple of inches shorter because it's only 4AA.

But instead of the Dorcy, have it be a decent quality light with a metal body for around $100.

How about Fenix making it and calling it the "One Half TK-40"? Use the same head as the TK-40 but eliminate the turbo mode because 4AA batteries can't handle it. Instead just have the low, med, high of the TK-40.

Yeah, I'd buy that.

If they went this route, it might be wise to ditch the MC-E and go for the XP-G instead. Even better yet make it a neutral XP-G and give it a rubber grip and making it the big brother of the TK-20/TK-21.
 
If they went this route, it might be wise to ditch the MC-E and go for the XP-G instead. Even better yet make it a neutral XP-G and give it a rubber grip and making it the big brother of the TK-20/TK-21.

yes to both these suggestions
 
Four Eneloop AA batteries work just fine in my TK40 when I operate it in turbo mode. High quality batteries are a must though, but not like anyone around CPF is devoted to leaky alkaline batteries anyway.

Sure, it will work on turbo, but it needs to be made user friendly.

Remember that a lot of people want the option of using their light with rechargables OR alkalines and don't want to have to remember to not use turbo because they have alkalines in there. From the manufacturer's standpoint it would simply be easier to eliminate turbo mode rather than dealing with angry customers returning their light for a refund when something melts.
 
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If they went this route, it might be wise to ditch the MC-E and go for the XP-G instead. Even better yet make it a neutral XP-G and give it a rubber grip and making it the big brother of the TK-20/TK-21.

Dig it a lot! :thumbsup:
 
If they went this route, it might be wise to ditch the MC-E and go for the XP-G instead. Even better yet make it a neutral XP-G and give it a rubber grip and making it the big brother of the TK-20/TK-21.

You can add me to the agreeing list! :thumbsup:
I would suggest a 3 mode version with revolving switch and 10, 100 and 250 lumens...

Regards, Patric
 
Just got a LED Lenser M14 which takes 4 AA:

6zprir.jpg

I like it

more info please !!!!!!!!!

internal body diameter?

lens diameter?

good heat disipation?(dropin pictures please)

led star size?
 
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Just took a few pics not sure if they are of any use to you,cant take any measurements as i'm at my gf's and she has no tape or ruler.

As for it getting hot its get warmish and that was after leaving it running for about a hour and a half on the highest setting.

It does extend about 3 quarters of an inch in length to put it on a spot beam,the other flashlights in the pic are the P7 and EagleTac T20C2 Mark II.

2a98dv8.jpg


ndtt2o.jpg


2coha51.jpg
 
Nice to see the LL M14!

Does anybody know whether the M series are regulated or not?

I know the P14 and P7 (the AAA variant) but I've never really regarded them very high from a flashaholic POV because of the ancient resistor "driver".
At least to the price they're asking they could have driven them with some AMC7135 or a similar construction. That would have resulted in 100% NiMH compatibility (some say NiMH are driving the LED a little too hard on high) not to mention much better regulation while still preserving some light "moon mode" eternities after the cells are considered empty.
 
No it's not regulated and still has the lousy UI/ switch that make many of us loathe the brand. Which is too bad because I really want a 4AA light as well.
 
No it's not regulated and still has the lousy UI/ switch that make many of us loathe the brand. Which is too bad because I really want a 4AA light as well.

The P14 is also quite expensive yet seams to be offering the same as what you would get if you purchased one of the best 2x AA lights (at a much lower price) and carried a second set of 2x AA's to swap in for longer run-time.

Its a shame that Fenix or 4sevens/quark don't offer a 4x AA light (although Fenix do offer the HP10 headlight which is 4xAA).

The other thing I would like is a cheaper version of the TK40 since it can run on 4 or 8 AA's. The ITP Polestar A6 is a great price for a 6X AA torch - maybe the solution is to buy one of them plus a 2x AA Quark and then that takes up 2x sets of 4AA's untill someone can make a great 4AA torch at a reasonable price.
 
No it's not regulated and still has the lousy UI/ switch that make many of us loathe the brand. Which is too bad because I really want a 4AA light as well.

The P14 is also quite expensive yet seams to be offering the same as what you would get if you purchased one of the best 2x AA lights (at a much lower price) and carried a second set of 2x AA's to swap in for longer run-time.

It seems like you're both talking about the P14 while I'm talking about the M14 :poke:

Just take a look at the pictures posted earlier! The M14 is a lot like P14 but updated with proper multi mode etc. And it is so new that it's not on all their local web pages yet.
Would be nice is someone could clarify whether that being properly regulated or not or they've just put in a FET to act like an electronic switch and otherwise kept it the same as the P14.

And one thing LED Lensers have which I have not seen any others have except a few low Q lights - a focusable TIR lens able to go from pure flood to pure spot. Whether you like that or not is up to your preference and use. But I'll very much like to have such light in my collection if only they will bring the electronics up to same modern standard and quality as the mechanical side of their lights.
 
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What about a 1d mag with malkoff xp-g dropin 4aa battery holder & 4 eneloops. I know that would work well If it is within your budget.
 
What about a 1d mag with malkoff xp-g dropin 4aa battery holder & 4 eneloops. I know that would work well If it is within your budget.

I've heard that these malkoof dropins are hard to get your hands on. And then you need to either buy or make your 1D. Oh well, guess if you can make your own 1D then you really easily should be able to make your own malkoof drop in. After all it's basically "just" a piece of turned alu, a driver and a LED.

Might throw pretty good but not have the nice flood or focus practically without flood. Played a little with a P14 at the shop were I bought my XL100.
Might very well be they're outdated electronically but optical and the quality you feel when you get it in your hands - playing with it - focusing etc. - is very top notch for a mass produced item.
 
The PT Amp line is pretty nice. I have an Amp 4.0 that I'm currently testing. It's built tough, and so far it's survived my youngest son (can't say that of the Dorcy Cyberlight, which I keep having to repair...).

The only quirk on the Amp 4 is that the small SMT switch is either too sensitive, or the plastic tab that's on top of it (to facilitate the action from the outside switch boot) is too thick. The result is that if you twack the light sideways a certain angle from the switch, the light will turn on.
 
The PT Amp line is pretty nice. I have an Amp 4.0 that I'm currently testing. It's built tough, and so far it's survived my youngest son (can't say that of the Dorcy Cyberlight, which I keep having to repair...).

The only quirk on the Amp 4 is that the small SMT switch is either too sensitive, or the plastic tab that's on top of it (to facilitate the action from the outside switch boot) is too thick. The result is that if you twack the light sideways a certain angle from the switch, the light will turn on.

One review of the Amp 5 said it wasn't shock resistant - if dropped from about 5-6 ft, the batteries would have an intermittent battery contact problem. Is this the case with the Amp 4?
 
I've heard that these malkoof dropins are hard to get your hands on. And then you need to either buy or make your 1D. Oh well, guess if you can make your own 1D then you really easily should be able to make your own malkoof drop in. After all it's basically "just" a piece of turned alu, a driver and a LED.

Might throw pretty good but not have the nice flood or focus practically without flood. Played a little with a P14 at the shop were I bought my XL100.
Might very well be they're outdated electronically but optical and the quality you feel when you get it in your hands - playing with it - focusing etc. - is very top notch for a mass produced item.
You don't need a Malkoff, Mag mods are easy.
Glue LED to the heatsink, stick driver under (the old fashioned method, if you don't plan on ever swapping the driver ever again is to stick the driver under the sink and dump the thermal epoxy over it, potting it into place) and use a shark sink and wire the whole thing together. I just don't like the form factor of 1D
 
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