50mw CR2 Green Laser for $26.31

CarbonCrew

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Dec 1, 2006
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3
I just got my laser in yesterday and it is bright. Very solid construction.

I just tested it using the dmm and green led and I got 148.0 uA ~ 52.85 mW. Not bad eh?
 

zerafull

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Jan 11, 2007
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i would know if its esay ton remove the focusing lens of this model, or how get a beamshot like a flashlight with this laser (30 cm of diameter at 1 meter by exemple) ? any ideas ?
 

Tachikoma

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Apr 6, 2007
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487
Someone suggested me in the past to use a cheap lens from disposable cameras and put it directly in front of the laser aperture, I still have to try it, I'll let you know when I'll do it :cool:
 

Tachikoma

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Apr 6, 2007
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487
mmmm not sure, I've been told to get the lens from a cardboard disposable camera like the ones you can buy for $5, so buy it and remove the lens :)
 

MMXER

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Jun 19, 2004
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I just recieved it today. It camp in a small shipping bag, and I recieved NO GIFT BOX! It was just in the shipping bag wrapped up in cheap bubble rap.

In comparsion to my pot modded Changchun GLP-1, its not even close in power. Maybe 1/2 as powerful. Of course im not sure of the output of the Changchun GLP-1.
No burning at all. My Changchun GLP-1 will burn through bags and such easy.... This wont even smoke black leather.

Of course battery could be weak.. Will do some more testing...
 

IgorT

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Sep 16, 2007
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I ordered one of these as well, on monday, still no shipping confirmation..

How long does it usually take them to ship these out?
 

Lunal_Tic

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Jul 29, 2004
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Still having trouble with the two I have. Neither will turn on first try and I've sanded off the paint between body parts for better contact and tried new batteries. I've even had a 2xAA body made that uses a Kroll to get around the switch that comes with these and I still have to fiddle with them to get them to come on.

On one unit the laser unit just dropped out of the head when I unscrewed it to check the contacts. The threads aren't held in by anything and just backed out of both sides. I'm guessing there is some kind of contact problem but I can't find it. Any ideas?

TIA,
-LT
 

IgorT

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Sep 16, 2007
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The threads aren't held in by anything and just backed out of both sides. I'm guessing there is some kind of contact problem but I can't find it. Any ideas?

It probably is a contact problem, since your module is not held tightly enough on the inside..

I've seen this laser powered outside it's enclosure, and there is a gap, that needs to be filled for this to work.. Inside the enclosure, the contact is created by the enclosure itself, but maybe there is something wrong with yours...

You could try filling that gap with a piece of wire, and try it then.. The person who tried this, left the wire inside for a better contact, so why not..


I'll go search for the pic, so you know what i mean....


kaiguts1.jpg



This is the gap i was talking about..

And this is how you fill it:


kaiguts2.jpg




Try it, and let me know if it works...


BTW: I heard some of these don't have this gap and some do, but if yours does, it could be the source of the problem..



The pics were made by Benm on LPF:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1193766153/30



Another problem could be a badly soldered switch, which is also discussed on that thread.. In that case you can simply resolder the switch..

This is what the switch resoldering looks like (by Knimrod in the same thread):


DSCF0653_d.jpg




If none of this helps, you should return the lasers and ask for a replacement.


If it does help, let us know.
 
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Lunal_Tic

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Thanks for the help. It looks like contacts are the main problem. In mine B and C don't touch and if you trim the glue and slid C all the way onto B then the circuit board sticks out too far to go back into the battery body. I took aluminum foil and wrapped it around B and folded it just over A so that the collar C wedges just on top. It doesn't appear to cause the length problem and the laser works better.

I would have liked to solder it but C is resting on glue so I don't think I could have gotten it hot enough. The design or manufacturing are off since this wouldn't be a problem if they had extended B or even integrated B & C into one piece of metal.


img0705smallyk0.jpg


The switch contacts don't even appear to be soldered in mine, only pressure fit. I tried to solder them to the brass housing but it's probably a cold solder joint since the contacts themselves are sitting on plastic I didn't want to apply too much heat, it does help a little though, may try to do a better job later. I'm just a little worried about the distance between the positive terminal and the newly soldered negatives. They seem to be a bit close and I'd not like to short the battery. I'm thinking about putting epoxy or something like that on the new solder points.

img0707smallsv0.jpg


Thanks for your help and the photos.
-LT
 

IgorT

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Sep 16, 2007
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Thanks for your help and the photos.
-LT

No problem.. I'm waiting for one of these myself, and want to know as much as possible about them, before i get it..

Looks like your main problem is the contact between the main body and the lower battery compartment, but i don't know for sure, since i haven't held one in my hands yet...

Did you try filling that gap with a wire, like in that photo? If you did that, and used someting else to make a contact between B and C, it should work fine...


If the switch is just a press fit, it probably works that way.. But it has been soldered succesfully. Of course it means heating up the brass, untill it's hot enough, for the solder to attach to it.. The larger the chunk of metal is, the harder it is to solder to it...


So did you have sucess in fixing your laser or do you still have problems?


Oh, and could you please tell me, how long it took Kaidomain to ship it, from the time you ordered it?
 

Lunal_Tic

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I used the foil rather than the wire. There's a small shoulder cut into one end of C and I basically folded a small portion of the foil over A and crammed on C. The foil should be filling the gap between the two.

The switch work is inconclusive, it's back to intermitant at this time. If I get the brass hot enough to melt the solder the plastic bits of the switch will melt. I've got a 2xAA tube with a Kroll switch that works fine now that I've got the head contacts set better. If I get motivated I may look for a more bomb proof fix but for now at least I know the laser modules are OK.

As for shipping, I was in the U.S. when I ordered and it took a bit over a month IIRC.

-LT
 

IgorT

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Sep 16, 2007
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As for shipping, I was in the U.S. when I ordered and it took a bit over a month IIRC.

-LT

A month? Wow... :(

What i meant was, how long it took them to ship it, from the day you ordered.. I ordered mine a week ago, and still didn't recieve a shipping confirmation.

I do know, that it'll take long for it to come here, even tho i'm in Slovenia, EU, which is a bit closer..
 

Lunal_Tic

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A month? Wow... :(

What i meant was, how long it took them to ship it, from the day you ordered.. I ordered mine a week ago, and still didn't recieve a shipping confirmation.

I do know, that it'll take long for it to come here, even tho i'm in Slovenia, EU, which is a bit closer..

I never got a confirmation. Actually I wrote to them in January to ask where it was then they sent me a HK Post link that said it had shipped about 15 days after I ordered it. Naturally it showed up in the mail a few days later, a bit over a month total. :shrug:

-LT
 
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IgorT

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Sep 16, 2007
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I never got a confirmation. Actually I wrote to them in January to ask where it was then they sent me a HK Post link that said it had shipped about 15 days after I ordered it. Naturally it showed up in the mail a few days later, a bit over a month total. :shrug:

-LT

I should have ordered from Deal Extreeme... They're a bit faster than that i think... But they don't have the same laser.. On the other hand, i wouldn't mind having two.. Hmm... Maybe a different model? Better chance of having something live long...

Damn, now i feel like ordering some more... :)
 

IgorT

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Sep 16, 2007
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It is really cheap,I wonder how about the power? Does it a good laser?

From what i heard, it does a good laser... ;)


But some people managed to kill them.. Maybe because they used 3.6V rechargables, which are 4.2V when full, and since these lasers don't have any real regulation, they slowly died..

But someone actually measured 72mW with it.. Don't remember what the voltage was..


If you want it to last long, use 3V rechargables.. On the other hand, it's so cheap, it's hardly worth mentioning if it dies..
 

Oznog

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Joined
Dec 2, 2006
Messages
595
Ended up ordering the black "Edwina" model.

Yeah, it takes awhile to get here for sure. Many weeks. I don't have records.

IT'S BEAUTIFUL!!! Been using it here and there, it's working great. No "mode hopping" observed.

The switch DOES suck. If I touch it in the slightest when on, the laser starts to flicker off (but doesn't lock in the off position, you gotta press down for that). Is this a type of switch I can get from one of KaiDomain/DealExtreme that might replace it, even if it's one of the same type but maybe better luck with quality?

I also had this scary problem- if the end cap unscrewed a turn or so, the laser turns itself on even though the switch is off! I am unsure just why that was, I did some tweaking with the center wires and it stopped doing that. I don't recall what all I did but I am 100% certain that I saw this problem.

BTW, I should probably warn people- just because it has been shown to have an IR filter initially does not guarantee yours will. KD/DX have been inconsistent in their products in the past, it goes with the whole cost thing. As has been shown here, there are already more than one type of construction being sold. So, it might be best to not assume yours will have a filter.

Don't get me wrong, I have not heard or seen of one of these being sold without it. Just pointing out that they play mix & match sometimes and most people would have a hard time detecting the hazardous IR output.
 
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