AAA twisty recommendation?

Virginian

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I am looking for a single AAA twisty that tail stands, preferably LMH but not a deal killer, MHL would do. Amazon used to carry many of these but not so much anymore.
 
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In no particular order:
1. JETBeam Jet-Mu
2. Preon P1 Mk-III (this one however has a tailcap switch, but lots of folks love it).
3. ThruNite TI3
4. Maratac Copper AAA (I know it's already recommended, but it really is a sweet light).
 
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this_is_nascar

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I am looking for a single AAA twisty that tail stands, preferably LMH but not a deal killer, MHL would do. Amazon used to carry many of these but not so much anymore.

Let's talk. They are all new and unused or carried.
 

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kerneldrop

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These are the lights you seek: the two on the left are USA made, which is important to me.

The black twistie with the pocket clip is actually unique.

IMG_3806.jpeg
 

Toulouse42

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That Maratac AAA looks like a fine light but I use my Thrunite Ti3 on my key ring and it takes the coating off pretty fast. It would be a shame to ruin that lovely copper finish. However I did buy an aluminium Maratac AAA today as its a better performer that the Thrunite (at least based on claimed lumens / time).
 

kerneldrop

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That Maratac AAA looks like a fine light but I use my Thrunite Ti3 on my key ring and it takes the coating off pretty fast. It would be a shame to ruin that lovely copper finish. However I did buy an aluminium Maratac AAA today as its a better performer that the Thrunite (at least based on claimed lumens / time).

Maratac AAA is made by Lumintop

All of the 1.2-1.8v AAA drivers are the exact same.

Tank 007 has a different driver, but it is a 1.2-4v driver.

A Tank 007 twistie is most versatile as it is rated for store bought batteires plus lithium ion batteries.
 

jon_slider

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I did buy an aluminium Maratac AAA today as its a better performer that the Thrunite
Congrats on adding an aluminium Maratac AAA to your options.. it is considerably lighter weight than the copper version..

the main difference from the Thrunite, is the Maratac starts on Medium, which I find more convenient than the Thrunite which starts on a very very dim low mode that usually means I have to double twist to get useful output..

I have not tried the xp-g3 Maratac.. they claim it is high cri, which would be a color rendering upgrade from the low cri xp-g2 in the thrunite. The medium output on the thrunite is about 10 lumens, on the Maratac it is about 20 lumens, so, the runtime will be shorter..

afaik both lights have similar max output of about 120 lumens (maratac uses imaginary lumens in their ads).. but I mostly only use medium, and I prefer the 20 lumens output of the maratac, over the 10 lumen output of the Thrunite.
 

kreisl

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ultratac k18 ss

i retired my twisty aaa lights years ago .
the ss (of k18) was the first light where i decided to buy and own several units as spares. its quality\price ratio (=its value) taught me to learn and adopt this new attitude. since then i bought multiple units of other high value lights too (Thrunite TiS, Fenix HM61R, off the top of my head)

nowadays i wouldn't buy a twisty aaa. just my 2 cents.
 

Toulouse42

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Congrats on adding an aluminium Maratac AAA to your options.. it is considerably lighter weight than the copper version..

the main difference from the Thrunite, is the Maratac starts on Medium, which I find more convenient than the Thrunite which starts on a very very dim low mode that usually means I have to double twist to get useful output..

I have not tried the xp-g3 Maratac.. they claim it is high cri, which would be a color rendering upgrade from the low cri xp-g2 in the thrunite. The medium output on the thrunite is about 10 lumens, on the Maratac it is about 20 lumens, so, the runtime will be shorter..

afaik both lights have similar max output of about 120 lumens (maratac uses imaginary lumens in their ads).. but I mostly only use medium, and I prefer the 20 lumens output of the maratac, over the 10 lumen output of the Thrunite.
Hi Jon, Thanks for the feedback.

I accept that published claims are not necessarily accurate but the AAA is part of my EDC strategy. So the ultimate output of the AAA is not of crucial importance. Its the one I have on me at all times. It has to be a twisty to avoid accidental activation.

If I go out, I have torches in the car (2AA + 1 x CR123A) + spare batteries.
Then I have a decent AA / 14500 in my jeans pocket.
Then in my coat pocket I have something like an 18650 or 21700.

In order to avoid buying the real lemons, I rely on the advice from CPF members. If I sometimes make a bad choice, then I chalk it up to experience. So far I've been pretty happy with my choices.

Needless to say, alkalines don't figure in that strategy except in emergencies.
 

kerneldrop

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It's the one I have on me at all times. It has to be a twisty to avoid accidental activation.
sounds like you need a Peak Eiger or the Ultra
It'll never fail and is made in Arizona.
Runs on all the battery types and uses QTC for infinite modes.

The Chinese AAA are all disposables, which is why they are generally $20 and under.

 

ilikeguns40

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I second the Peak Eiger or any Peak lights. They are well built, simple, potted electronics, and hardly anything to actually fail. Made in USA is a huge plus and they would be one of the lights I would depend on with my life
 

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