Re: AC specks around the globe?
From what I understand, Spotlight is correct... But notice he spoke of "ring-mains". As I understand, in the UK they basically feed every wall socket from two sides--i.e., a circuit breaker on the left and another on the right. Therefore, if you have a 15 amp breaker in each, you have 30 amps available at the socket (assuming both sides of the ring are good).
And that is the reason for the requirement for a fused plug to limit the maximum current to 15
(edit: may be 13 amps maximum?) amps maximum. And why, if you are used to flipping only one breaker one breaker off, you would still see the power on in your branch circuit. You need to turn off the ring-main breaker pairs to isolate a branch circuit.
John, you did not mention why you where asking the AC power question--but if you are looking to sell chargers (as an example) around the world--the standard I usually designed to was:
<ul type="square">[*]15 amps maximum input current (although I would try for 10 amps maximum--i.e., 950 watts maximum input)
[*]Power factor corrected (i.e., don't use a diode bridge charging input caps for electronic supplies anymore--although, you probably can get away with small wattage supplies--I don't remember the spec limit--check the IEC requirements for Europe).
[*]Unit operates on 95-264 VAC 50/60 Hz. There are dual voltage type units that work from 100-130 and 18-240--but they can blow up (pop a fuse) if operated in the 135-180 volt range--they are legal, but I would avoid them if can and get the wide range type that work in the whole range from 95-264 VAC. PFC (power factor corrected) supplies almost always meet the wide range specs.
[*]Look for units that use
IEC type power cords. They are readily available and limit your liability. And worst comes to worst, the customer can cut the end off and put on their own plug (can't do that with integrated wall warts/plugs).
[*]Avoid internal fuses that are not easily customer replaceable--or at least make sure that fuses are at least 2x the expected current input rating (typically at 95 VAC). A smaller fuse may protect the unit from damage--but if nobody can replace the fuse locally, then the unit is still dead.
[*] Make sure that the units are UL or CSA (or other NRTL approved for North America) and are, at least CE approved for Europe--that will be accepted from most countries at customs (assuming that you are exporting only a few units at a time).
[*]Make sure the units are "double insulated" / SELV output(s) and don't require a ground wire for safety.
[*]Recommend FCC/CE class B emissions (home use), although Class A should be OK (and cheaper) too.
[*]Use a good vendor and make them responsible for all of the above--you don't want to get into this yourself unless you have a good market or high volume. You should be able to get off-the-shelf units that meet the above requirements (for example, if you want world power in and 12 VDC out (SELV--Safety Extra Low Voltage) to a charging station).
[/list]
Well, the above list should be a good start on your requirements--if this was the question you wanted answered.
-Bill
edit to add 13 amp disclaimer