Advice Please!!!

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Re: Advice Please!!! (Follow Up on ITP C7)

Apparently, I am a moron and two 14500's paired up to the C7 head (using the C8 body) will smoke the head in about 10 minutes (at least that is how long it took me). I should have been smarter and understood that the thing would not be able to handle the output power, but I assumed that since the C8 body would fit to the C7 head, that using multiple batteries would work. Wasted 50 bucks (with all the options and crap that I bought). Now I am not sure if I will take the retailers offer of 20% off my next purchase, or just go with another light....
 
Sorry to hear of the hard battery lesson - most buying these lights are CPF type people who understand the limits of using multiple rechargeable batteries since they have a higher voltage it's always a question if a light can handle the Li-ions. Itp makes very nice lights and have a very good price point. I'd give it another try if it filled the bill otherwise. If not there are certainly a lot of other lights that will fill your needs minus the adjustable beam. However with enough brightness and a fairly good hotspot you'll be able to point things out as well as have plenty of overall light. Some of the new 4Sevens lights are very high efficiency, well built and backed by great customer service. They use some of the newest LED's and if you can find one in the 4Sevens line such as one of the Quarks I think you'll have most of your needs. I'd probably opt for one with the XP-E R2 as it will have a tighter spot but still lots of spill. The newer XP-G's are a bit more floody.
 
so sorry to hear that. :poof: Yeah, someone here, maybe me, should have pointed out that the 14500 would only work with a single AA on some lights (giving you the brightness of a 2AA but with a shorter run time).

I hope you don't give up on your quest. your choice of a light was good, but I would also suggest you look at the Quark line. You have a choice of bodies, heads, switches and voltages so you can lego what you want (and it sounds like you already have all the batteries you need)

Dave
 
Chief: I strongly second RobertM's recommendation of the Surefire L1 (Cree 2-stage). It's an extremely rugged and versatile little light.

Surefire under-estimates the L1's 10/65 lumen rating... I'd say by up to 25%. Both low and high beams are fairly tightly focused (yet beautifully balanced) giving it the ability to "punch" through ambient/competing light... AND even moderate fog/smoke/haze. Because it runs on just ONE CR123 battery, it's very efficient -- and with great run-time. There is no problem re "matching" equal-strength batteries for safety as with multi-cell lights. Its user interface is simple and intuitive: no Techno-Fancy-Schmancy FanBoy tricks here requiring frequent consults with a grammatically-inept owners' manual!

Way back when I was rattling around in WestPac/CTF-77 (Vietnam) aircraft carriers and nearby jungles, a Surefire L1 would have made life easier -- especially for the pilots I trained in S.E.R.E./S.A.R.. Today, the L1 is my pocketable, do-everything EDC light. Worth every penny.

Fair seas and following winds!
 
That was an expensive lesson to learn. Always check what voltages the electronics can accept.

Well, you might be able to find just the head for sale, and save on re-buying the body and tailcap. Both the LED and driver might have burnt out so if you want to do a mod, you'll have to replace both. How the light functions(modes) afterwards depends on the driver.

You can also try to sell the light as is in the marketplace.
 
All great input and I am very lucky. The Shiningbeam.com folks are working with me for a great deal on a return... I will use them for more purchases.

As far as other options, I would like to take advantage of the 50 bucks worth of AW 14500s and the charger that I got. What other great lights can use these cells without smoking them?

Thanks,
Rob
 
What about a Sure Fire G2L? I think it would be a great light for you.
 
Hey Chief,

Im sorry to hear about your first choices accident :thumbsdow... but here's my $0.02.

When it comes to people who are new to flashlights, battery types, drivers, LED's and all the other stuff that can be tossed around... I usually suggest to keep it simple and build from there. You usually end up with an army... er, fleet of flashlights in the end but it keeps the accidents down to start with (till you try to custom mod or build your own)...

This question is sort of a hard one seeing as how no one light combines everything that you need into one package. But there are a few that are close.

I would suggest the Streamlight Multi Ops. Here is a brief rundown on the spec sheet. You can find the full size here.

10-7002-head.jpg


-50 lumen primary white C4 LED emitter,
-650nM Class 3 laser pointer,
-390nM UV leds (fluid detection),
-4.5 hours of runtime to 10% for primary output,
-runs on 3AAA batteries,
-Select each function individually and/or combine the white light and laser pointer (for pointing out what not to your sailors)
-Lanyard compatible,
-Depending on the dealer.... should be right in your price range.:twothumbs

I think that should cover just about eveything that you wanted.:grin2:

Its a streamlight... so the build quality has been established through their long history, their are dealers EVERYWHERE if you ever have problems, and the batteries the light uses are fairly universal and hugely abundant.

Should you REALLY not need all the gadgets and gizmos on the Streamlight then I will throw in a third on the recommendation for the Surefire L1... I'll keep it short by saying that you wont be disappointed.

Hope this helps a little and meets your needs. Stay safe.

Alberta-Blue :cool:
 
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The single AA lights that say they can take up to 4.2v are fine with a single 14500 battery.

Here's a few:
Nitecore D10
Nitecore Defender Infinity
Jetbeam Jet-I
iTP C7
Liteflux LF5XT

A Fenix PD30 with a L2D/LD20 body can use 2 14500 batteries without problem (it has a buck circuit). A LD20/L2D head with 2 14500s will fry but the P3D/PD30 head will be fine.
 
the iTP is fine, to save $ buy a replacement head.
As with any piece of equipment, use it to spec :(

You bought into a really versatile set with the cX iTP lights. There is a 2xAA tube, a 1xAA tube, a 1x123 tube. I think they are ~$8 from shiningbeam. Just remember the light head as a working voltage 0.9-4.2, so keep your combinations with-in that.

*If you fried the head, it is probably just the circuit board and the emitter is OK. You sound like you're going to get a new head, which is great. But don't throw the dead one out. Eventually you'll ask someone to put a new driver in it for you ($3-9 from some retailers) or you'll learn enough to buy a new board and solder it in yourself.
 
I would recommend looking at the 4sevens Quark line., specifically the 1xAA light with the XP-E R2 ( on sale now). If you do alot of electrical diagnostic and deal with multiple wire colors, look into the limited run neutrals (the LED used gives better color rendering at the cost of a little less output), only CR123 lights are in stock, but you can purchase a 1xAA body separately and use your 14500s.
 
To amplify Linger's point about saving the fried head...you probably already know an ET who is handy with a soldering iron, and who also knows a thing or two about electronics...how about asking one of them to replace the emitter and driver for you? I'd still purchase a replacement head, but a project to rebuild the original "learning experience" head might be more worthwhile then you think, especially if you install one of the new G-Class emitters. :dedhorse:
 
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