Alpha 2000 canister light led

Bh93

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Messages
2
Hi all
I have had a wander around the site, looks good,
I have not been able to find an answer to my question,lots of good info and suppliers.
I am looking to replace the 50W IRC Halogen globe in my Alpha 2000 canister light with an LED replacement.
Can anyone help with how and where to get parts in Australia,Perth if possible?
I have replaced the SLA 12 V pack with a 13.8 V from a supplier in Wangara so far I get better run times but the halogen gets hot out of water.
All help appreciated but please be aware that this is the first time doing this so a few questions will come your way during the build..
Thanks Bh93
 

Klem

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
581
Location
Perth Australia
Wise move.:thumbsup:

Incandescent is 20th Century technology...and so is the Alpha. Unfortunately Alpha can't help you either...they're still selling 10 year-old technology. But that's not to say you can't DIY upgrade it to something pretty specky.

If you want to stick with the Alpha then I would steer away from straight swapping the IRC with an MR16 LED. You'll get under 200lumens from it and be sorely disappointed.

You want something that's similar in size to an MR16 globe, but at least 10watts. Something like this 16Watt drop-in is good value for money...
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/5-cree...drop-in-led-module-52-7mm-42mm-8-4v-max-35241

You would need to re-configure your battery so that the max voltage does not exceed 8.4V (the max voltage of the drop-in). There's enough metal on the drop-in to act as a reasonable heat-sink but that's the disadvantage of the Alpha wand...It's a plastic enclosed handle. With a decent LED you need to wick that heat away from the LEDs or you'll cook them. Metal transmits heat and a metal torch to the outside water is perfect. A plastic torch acts as an insulator so you'll be limited a bit here.

Or you could source (or build) a 2-cell Li-ion that would fit in that Alpha canister with enough space left over for your lunch, keys, phone and wallet (LOL). That would solve your voltage problem fopr the drop-in.

Or, you could get rid of that wand altogether and build your own metal wand out of a Maglight, and run the cable into the Alpha canister.

Sourcing gear in Perth is not a problem thanks to the internet. Minor parts can come from **** Smith, Jaycar (Northbridge), Altronics (Northbridge), RS Components (Ozy Park...Expensive), or Element 14 (Online, Sydney). LED parts are from the two popular online Chinese outlets...DX and KD, or from more specialised suppliers like Cutters (Sydney/Online).

Don't go to any of the dive stores... PDA or 'The Adams Family' (Dive Superstore). None of them have a clue about torch technology and will try and sell you something for $42,670.95, that pumps out about as much light as my key-ring torch.
 

Tambjaman

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 23, 2010
Messages
14
Hi Bh93

I agree with Klem, however you are presently overdriving a MR16
The consequence of this is lots of heat that will damage the wand and shorten the life of the globe
I ve seen 1 Alpha 2000 with meltdown occurring inside the light head that was using a 35watt IRC with a 14v lithium pack
And another where a 20watt globe was totally cooked

We found in both instances that Alpha were supplying 14v packs with MR16 12 v halogens prior to recently changing smaller Led heads

The Drop in Module that Klem has suggested is too wide to fit inside the twisty Alpha head
However DX have another SKU 14413 SSC P7 2800 Ma Led Module 3.6-8.4v $22.28
I ve modified a few Alpha 2000 and also a couple of Ocean Graphics older types using a Reid switch, however they are tad more complicated than the twisty wand
which is easy to work with as all parts are available from Jaycar & CBC

This Modules reflector needs to be carefully shaped fit into the head, This can be done by hand with a file & grinder.
This module is designed for a specific voltage range I am using 2 X 7.4 RC Nmh in parallel
However a Lithium pack maybe a better option, depends on your preferences and whether you wish to cut costs and mod your new battery pack

As Klem mentioned you will have space left in the battery canister for nibbles for your surface interval, car keys etc
But now the battery pack maybe positive, so its best to cut approx 100mm and epoxy it together, plus fibre glass over the join

The amount you cut will depend on the battery pack

Mines been frequently to 30m, and has been wet about 40 times so far

Another plus for this mod is you are no longer lugging heavy lead acid batteries along on shore dives or having your buddies whining about the weight of your gear

The only negative I can think of is caused the P7 having 4 separate emitters which produce a donut hole in the light closer than 1m,after that distance the output close to a 10w HID and is a tight pure white beam
Old Alpha 2000s can be cheaply modified with some basic skills and tools
& generates some interest on dives
Hope you enjoy this modification as I did
 
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