TorchBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
I think Stefan might be a little premature in concluding it's the board when he tried it three times with exactly the same setup (especially battery). I don't doubt it's repeatable with his particular setup tho.
AMC7135 Circuit board @ Kaidomain
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StefanFS
Flashlight Enthusiast
Could be. I'll just have to see if it happens with other lights I have these drivers in. It strobed for a few seconds.
TorchBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
It'll be great if it does that as well, Stefan, and all in such a tiny package. Do you have any other batteries you could try with it? Some of those mostly dead alkalines perhaps? (4 instead of 3?)
I installed a 1050mA version in my Elly. had to file down the edges. and also soldered the bridges. it was quite difficult as they are tiny. I guess I was lucky. I tested each time I soldered a bridge and the ouput was substantially brighter.
however after using it for 10 mins mine became very dim. I tapped the light and it went back to full brightness. could this be a grounding problem?
anyone who's done this to their elly, did you have to fold the black/ground wire into the screwhole as per how the original elly was wired?
FlashCrazy
Flashlight Enthusiast
I had to with the 700 mA boards. I tested them as they came, and they delivered 350 mA to the emitter. After bridging, they delivered 700 mA.
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FlashCrazy
Flashlight Enthusiast
No, you only have to solder the ground wire to the star. In fact, if you extend the ground wire to the screw, the board won't regulate properly. What you DO have to do is make the ground ring/circle on the bottom side of the regulator board ground to the pill. Battery negative travels through the body of the light, and needs to have a path to that ring on the board. If the pill wasn't made of aluminum, this would be as simple as soldering a little blob from the ring to the edge of the pill. What I did on my Elly was to snip a small piece of copper desoldering braid and solder that to the outer ring on the regulator board (bottom side). The piece protrudes about 1/8" away from the pill. When the pill is threaded into the body of the light, this little piece of wick gets smashed against the light's housing, completing the path for battery negative.
Hope this helps!
Yup thanks, that's exactly what I thought I had to do. When I filed the board down to fit in the pill I made sure that it was exact hoping that the outer ring would have good contact with the pill. obviously it doesn't.
Anyway I should have realised that connecting the black wire (-ve) to the screw in the pill would in effect make it direct drive just like what I had before swapping the board for the original.
Thanks again.
Having said that, I'm quite impressed with this board.
Anyway I should have realised that connecting the black wire (-ve) to the screw in the pill would in effect make it direct drive just like what I had before swapping the board for the original.
Thanks again.
Having said that, I'm quite impressed with this board.
TorchBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
When these drop out of regulation and go to direct drive, should the voltage drop across the regulator be zero, or 0.12V, or the 0.61V that I just measured?
Kill-O-Zap
Enlightened
Folks, I'm a bit out of my element here, I may be way off base. But here's a thought:
DX's description claims:
Reverse input polarity protection (won't burn out if battery is installed the wrong way)
Does this mean there's a diode external to the chip, that is costing that .6V discrepancy TorchBoy reported (.61 instead of .12V), and if so, could the diode be bypassed? I think that would explain why the chart in the earlier post looks like DD, with that much of a drop...
TorchBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
With that much drop the thing was acting as much worse than direct drive. I think it may have been some fancy balancing thing going on between the operating voltage of the LED, the loaded voltage of the battery, and the operating voltage (voltage drop) of the regulator chip allowing for the 0.6V of the diode.
Bertrik
Newly Enlightened
I think the 0.12V is only in the normal operating region, I believe the behaviour for Vin < Vout + 0.12V is unspecified.
I guess the flashing StefanFS noticed during his runtime test is caused by the protection circuit of the battery.
After 55min. a RCR123 is almost drained, but the current is to low to make the circuit shutdown.
I noticed a similar effect, when running a PWM light on low. The protection circuit in the AW battery didn't cut the circuit, the battery was drained to 2,2V when i stopped the test. The battery is still usable, but has very high self discharge since that.
After 55min. a RCR123 is almost drained, but the current is to low to make the circuit shutdown.
I noticed a similar effect, when running a PWM light on low. The protection circuit in the AW battery didn't cut the circuit, the battery was drained to 2,2V when i stopped the test. The battery is still usable, but has very high self discharge since that.
Gadget_Guru
Newly Enlightened
The diodes on these boards should be removed for best performance. They are only there for input reverse polarity protection. The diodes drop about 590mV, so they're really not helping when trying to keep in regulation as the batt. voltage drops.
I just installed a 700mA board in a 30 LED 3D light, with the diodes removed. I will try to post a run-time light output graph later, if I can get around to modding my cheapo light meter to work with my PC-enabled DMM.
Darron
I just installed a 700mA board in a 30 LED 3D light, with the diodes removed. I will try to post a run-time light output graph later, if I can get around to modding my cheapo light meter to work with my PC-enabled DMM.
Darron
koala
Flashlight Enthusiast
For all the boards no matter what mA output.
The diodes are the red glass vials with black strip, they look like ants..
The diodes are the red glass vials with black strip, they look like ants..
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