I did the obligatory search and did not come up with anything useful. I'm new here and gladly accept your opinions and suggestions.I'm looking for a flashlight that has a very bright spotlight setting at a distance of about 100 feet. I need to be able to see small details at this distance. I have no idea what a lumen value for this would be.Neutral white color. LED. $200 maximum. AA or AAA batteries. Smallish. A bright flood mode is useful too. I don't think I want a beam you can focus, too many moving parts. Battery life is irrelevant. Waterproof. All metal construction. Rugged to take drop abuse.Someone I met last year had a great one and all I can remember was that it was about $150.Thanks in advance!
Another theatre flashlight question
- Thread starter Paulie_m
- Start date
theatre? are you talking movie theatre or battlefield?
Do you want spot spill or both? Usually movie theatre types want a tight hotspot and no spill so that they don't disturb other guests when telling some kid to be quiet.
-If you want a tight hotspot /spotlight a Fenix E40 is awesome (ignore the lumens, this light is all throw)
-if you want decent spill, any 2 AA light will do.. fenix, 4sevens, eagletac, shiningbeam, dereelight, klaurs, olight, thrunite, jetbeam..
-100 feet should be easy for any of those brands mentioned....
Do you want spot spill or both? Usually movie theatre types want a tight hotspot and no spill so that they don't disturb other guests when telling some kid to be quiet.
-If you want a tight hotspot /spotlight a Fenix E40 is awesome (ignore the lumens, this light is all throw)
-if you want decent spill, any 2 AA light will do.. fenix, 4sevens, eagletac, shiningbeam, dereelight, klaurs, olight, thrunite, jetbeam..
-100 feet should be easy for any of those brands mentioned....
I'll post this a little better. This is for theatre, as in Shakespeare, not movie. I'd like to keep the spill to a minimum and have a tighter spot. 2-6 AA or AAA batteries or 1-2 CR123 Neutral white.
1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?
____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
___x_I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.
2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)
____Less than $25.
____Less than $50.
____Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
____Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
____I’m flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
__x__Other, please specify __$200______
3) Format:
___x_I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.
4) Flashlight-specific format/size:
__x__Keychain size.
__x__Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
__x__Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____N/A
5) Emitter/Light source:
__x__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.
6) Manufacturer:
__x__I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
__x__I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.
7) What battery type do you want to use?
__x__I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA or AA) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today’s most powerful lights)
____I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
___x_I intend to use lithium primary batteries(CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
____I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)
8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).
____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
____I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).
9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
__x__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
__x__30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)
10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).
____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).
11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.
____Not Important (A “night-stand” light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
__x__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.
12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today’s high end lights).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________________.
13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.
____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
__x__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
14)Material/Finish/Coating
____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
__x__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________.
15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.
____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____“Hybrid” light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environment
1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?
____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
___x_I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.
2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)
____Less than $25.
____Less than $50.
____Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
____Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
____I’m flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
__x__Other, please specify __$200______
3) Format:
___x_I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.
4) Flashlight-specific format/size:
__x__Keychain size.
__x__Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
__x__Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____N/A
5) Emitter/Light source:
__x__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.
6) Manufacturer:
__x__I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
__x__I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.
7) What battery type do you want to use?
__x__I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA or AA) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today’s most powerful lights)
____I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
___x_I intend to use lithium primary batteries(CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
____I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)
8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).
____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
____I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).
9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
__x__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
__x__30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)
10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).
____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).
11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.
____Not Important (A “night-stand” light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
__x__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.
12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today’s high end lights).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________________.
13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.
____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
__x__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
14)Material/Finish/Coating
____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
__x__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________.
15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.
____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____“Hybrid” light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environment
Last edited:
Gunner12
Flashaholic
Lumen is one thing, lux is another. Laser = high lux, low lumen, flood light = high lumen, low lux. That being said, you don't need too much light at all to see well at 100 ft.
Would you like a nice focused beam, or a wide beam? Many of the lights here will work, but if you want neutral/warm/high CRI, check out this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Available-HighCRI-Neutral-amp-Warm-LED-Lights
:welcome:
Would you like a nice focused beam, or a wide beam? Many of the lights here will work, but if you want neutral/warm/high CRI, check out this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Available-HighCRI-Neutral-amp-Warm-LED-Lights
:welcome:
My eyes are popping out of my head from all the reading I've done and I haven't even shown a light in my eyes yet! :faint:
I work in the theatre industry and need to see approximately 100' up to the grid to see details of rigging hardware, but I also need to look at set pieces in a natural color setting. I need more of a neutral white.
The suggested E40 is a bit too cool for me from the pics I've reviewed. I'm looking at the LD40 or LD25 in comparison. Obviously 100' is not that far of a distance. As I look around, I'm not too sure what Lux numbers are acceptable for my needs, 2000, 5000, 10,000, or more. I would opt to go overpowered vs underpowered.
I was looking for AA or AAA, but I will not rule out any 1 or 2 CR123 options.
Side or rear clicky button, no twisty rings. Multi power levels for closer work. I would like a rugged metal construction, but it is not a deal breaker. A holster and lanyard is a nice option. The number 1 factors are, a relatively tight beam with minimal spill and a neutral white hue.
Thanks!
I work in the theatre industry and need to see approximately 100' up to the grid to see details of rigging hardware, but I also need to look at set pieces in a natural color setting. I need more of a neutral white.
The suggested E40 is a bit too cool for me from the pics I've reviewed. I'm looking at the LD40 or LD25 in comparison. Obviously 100' is not that far of a distance. As I look around, I'm not too sure what Lux numbers are acceptable for my needs, 2000, 5000, 10,000, or more. I would opt to go overpowered vs underpowered.
I was looking for AA or AAA, but I will not rule out any 1 or 2 CR123 options.
Side or rear clicky button, no twisty rings. Multi power levels for closer work. I would like a rugged metal construction, but it is not a deal breaker. A holster and lanyard is a nice option. The number 1 factors are, a relatively tight beam with minimal spill and a neutral white hue.
Thanks!
Why would seeing more of the rigging at a time be a problem?
IE: If you could see a 1' circle of light (A tightly focused beam at 100', why would that be preferable to being able to see a 4' circle of light at that range?
I could understand if you are trying to see though tight spaces between other objects on the way out to the target...and want to avoid lighting up closer objects which might make your eyes stop down and not be able to see more distant darker objects?
I ask because there are some lights that can cast a dowel shaped beam at that range...but its like looking through a paper towel tube view wise, you don't see much at a time.
The more focused the beam, the fewer lumens you need to see details...as they are concentrated into a small patch. A larger patch of light requires more lumens to provide an equivalent amount of resolution.
If you describe the diameter of the patch of light at 100' you'd prefer, we can make recommendations as to something that would do a good job of giving it to you.
IE: If you could see a 1' circle of light (A tightly focused beam at 100', why would that be preferable to being able to see a 4' circle of light at that range?
I could understand if you are trying to see though tight spaces between other objects on the way out to the target...and want to avoid lighting up closer objects which might make your eyes stop down and not be able to see more distant darker objects?
I ask because there are some lights that can cast a dowel shaped beam at that range...but its like looking through a paper towel tube view wise, you don't see much at a time.
The more focused the beam, the fewer lumens you need to see details...as they are concentrated into a small patch. A larger patch of light requires more lumens to provide an equivalent amount of resolution.
If you describe the diameter of the patch of light at 100' you'd prefer, we can make recommendations as to something that would do a good job of giving it to you.
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TEEJ, good questions.
I'm still trying to get a feel for what is out there.
My concern for a narrow focus is that I may need to use my light during the performance and would not want the whole backstage lit up. But, I also would like a little spill to avoid a small circle of light and to see a bit more of the surroundings.
I'd say that a 10' diameter hot spot with a little spill at about 100' would be the median size of what I am looking for. The 100' dimension is about the upper limit of what I need to view, the average distance would be more like 70'.
I am open to suggestions for a customized flashlight where I could swap out the LED assembly for different ones.
I'm still trying to get a feel for what is out there.
My concern for a narrow focus is that I may need to use my light during the performance and would not want the whole backstage lit up. But, I also would like a little spill to avoid a small circle of light and to see a bit more of the surroundings.
I'd say that a 10' diameter hot spot with a little spill at about 100' would be the median size of what I am looking for. The 100' dimension is about the upper limit of what I need to view, the average distance would be more like 70'.
I am open to suggestions for a customized flashlight where I could swap out the LED assembly for different ones.
I finally settled on an LD25 from Fenixgear.com and a pack of Eneloops and a MH C9000 charger from B&H photo. They should be here this weekend. I have a strong feeling I'm going to like the light regardless of whether or not it is the perfect one for the task. I know this won't be my last "high performance" flashlight purchase!
greenlight
Flashlight Enthusiast
If there is too much spill light you can fashion a collar for the bezel out of a toilet paper tube or something to help constrain the beam.
Gunner12
Flashaholic
I hope the light works well for you!
Low mode might be too bright if you are using it during a production though, but a filter or something can drastically cut down output if you need that. A collar will definitely help with spill if it becomes a issue, but it does make the light longer.
Low mode might be too bright if you are using it during a production though, but a filter or something can drastically cut down output if you need that. A collar will definitely help with spill if it becomes a issue, but it does make the light longer.
Sub_Umbra
Flashlight Enthusiast
Spill is a waste if one already knows exactly WHAT one wants to look at and WHERE it is. Checking theatre rigging remotely is quite a bit different than looking for an unconscious two year old in a canyon. In a remote rigging check with a light and binoculars (often viewing each point from three or more different positions) it is very easy to think, "...jeeze, I wish I could squirt all this light I'm wasting as spill into more throw that could actually help me accomplish this task." (I have had that very thought while using a 2 degree beam.) This unwanted spill also makes it harder to see what the spot is illuminating. It's a waste all around in many situations, not just theatre. The same is often true at sea, for example.
Complicating matters more, theatres often become very, very frantic in the final week before a big show opens. There may be 4-5 crews trying to accomplish vastly different tasks all working in the same space. The best among them will try really hard to have a minimal negative effect on the other disparate teams. As an example, a stage carpenter may find himself on stage putting the finishing touches on something while the lighting director is focusing lights. Time and again the carpenter may be virtually in the dark (except for his own light). He may even wear black clothing so that he will send less splash around the room no matter what its source because some of these tasks require as little ambient light as possible to make them even doable. People who may work in the same space with others while providing minimal distractions to those in their proximity are in greater demand and find more work than those who are more distracting.
So, here we may have a situation where time is short and everyone is on stage at once. The last of the scenic painters are trying to finish up along with the stage carpenters. The sound implimentation guys are running the last of their cables while the prop master is still setting up almost in the wings offstage right. The rigger is checking his points remotely and while all of this activity is going on in the same place and at the same time the lighting director needs it all as dark as possible for the focus.
In technical theatre, cooperation is essential and disruptive crew members will waste a lot of time that no one has. The riggers will probably have the most powerful, potentially distracting lights of all the crews on stage so they have to be very careful how they select and use them if they want to keep their jobs.
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You guys are great with all your input! I'm glad I discovered this site or I probably would've bought another crappy light at Home Depot, like my old LED Lenser with like 5 LEDs in it that is about as bright as the light on my iPhone! :candle:
Once my LD25 arrives with a good, dark, Vermont night, I'll see what this baby can do. I'm toying with the idea of an EDC if this thing is too bright to use during a performance. I've got about another week to decide before I hit the road again.
Thanks! :wave:
Once my LD25 arrives with a good, dark, Vermont night, I'll see what this baby can do. I'm toying with the idea of an EDC if this thing is too bright to use during a performance. I've got about another week to decide before I hit the road again.
Thanks! :wave:
Everything came today!:naughty:
The charger is huge, but for the features it packs, I'm all cool with it. I put the new Eneloops in and topped off the charge in 19 minutes, but left them on a few hours longer to get the max as suggested here.
The LD25 feels good and is the size I wanted. It feels slightly rubbery even though it is plastic. It slides out of the sheath with no problems as others have had. Quality construction with a slight battery rattle if I hit it, but not an issue to me. Clicky button isn't too firm and is easy to get a momentary without clicking it on. The LED is centered perfectly.
Preliminary results in the basement, I'll measure accurate sizes later. The hotspot is about 3-4 feet at about 35 foot distance. If I blast my off white wall, I can see the LED in the center of the hotspot. It is slightly yellow green. Color rendition otherwise, is accurate to my eyes and I'm not going to overanalyze it. All the modes work and switch fine. I was concerned about the low not being low enough, but I feel it is. The light isn't as bright as I was expecting, but I'm definitely not disappointed. Looking at specs, pics and videos online is tough. The spill is larger than I had thought too, this may be the only negative in my mind and I don't want to jimmy rig a collar. I would just as soon buy the correct light for my application. Overall, I am happy with it and waiting for night fall to go outside and see what it does.
I had planned that this wouldn't be my only flashlight purchase, so I went and bit the bullet last night on a Zebralight sc51w from Going Gear to use as an EDC. I think I got the last one in stock. Since I just dumped quite a bit of cash on all this stuff, I'm going to hit the road with them and see how they perform in my work environment before I decide on another flashlight to add to the collection.
The charger is huge, but for the features it packs, I'm all cool with it. I put the new Eneloops in and topped off the charge in 19 minutes, but left them on a few hours longer to get the max as suggested here.
The LD25 feels good and is the size I wanted. It feels slightly rubbery even though it is plastic. It slides out of the sheath with no problems as others have had. Quality construction with a slight battery rattle if I hit it, but not an issue to me. Clicky button isn't too firm and is easy to get a momentary without clicking it on. The LED is centered perfectly.
Preliminary results in the basement, I'll measure accurate sizes later. The hotspot is about 3-4 feet at about 35 foot distance. If I blast my off white wall, I can see the LED in the center of the hotspot. It is slightly yellow green. Color rendition otherwise, is accurate to my eyes and I'm not going to overanalyze it. All the modes work and switch fine. I was concerned about the low not being low enough, but I feel it is. The light isn't as bright as I was expecting, but I'm definitely not disappointed. Looking at specs, pics and videos online is tough. The spill is larger than I had thought too, this may be the only negative in my mind and I don't want to jimmy rig a collar. I would just as soon buy the correct light for my application. Overall, I am happy with it and waiting for night fall to go outside and see what it does.
I had planned that this wouldn't be my only flashlight purchase, so I went and bit the bullet last night on a Zebralight sc51w from Going Gear to use as an EDC. I think I got the last one in stock. Since I just dumped quite a bit of cash on all this stuff, I'm going to hit the road with them and see how they perform in my work environment before I decide on another flashlight to add to the collection.
^Gurthang
Flashlight Enthusiast
Good luck w/ you new lights, you should do well w/ them.
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