Any AMSOIL users?

[Bushman]

Thinking about switching to AMSOIL They have some pretty big claims. There is a dealer here in my town whom I know and he is a believer (obivously) changes his oil once a year and changes filters (amsoil) every 12K miles.

Does anyone here use it?

 

[NeonLights]

I started using Mobil 1 synthetic oil 12 years ago in practically everything I drive (that was about 10 cars and 300,000 miles ago). I switched to Amsoil two years ago and got into their preferred customer program. For $20 a month I was able to buy at dealer prices, and switched both of our Dodge Neons and our Volvo 240 over to Amsoil. I can get Amsoil for about the same price per quart as Mobil 1, and the filters are cheaper than Mobil 1 filters (at dealer prices).

I also supply a friend with Amsoil products and charge him a little over my cost (but still way below retail) to help get back my membership fee. After a year and about 15,000 miles on his oil we sent it in for analysis, and it checked out perfectly fine, practically good as new.

I decided to quit using Amsoil in the Volvo after about 5-10,000 miles because at 250,000 miles it was leaking about a quart every 1-2000 miles. That is the one problem with Amsoil (and most other synthetics), if the engine burns or leaks oil, it will burn or leak even more with Amsoil. The Volvo was just totalled a few weeks ago, so that is no longer an issue.

I may stop using Amsoil oil in everything though. My Neon was only driven 6000 miles last year, and since one of the main selling points of Amsoil is how many miles you can keep it in an engine, that is lost on me. It is also seeing more and more duty as a race car, so I will be switching it over to RedLine synthetic later this year. The other Neon was only driven about 8000 miles last year, but I'll probably keep Amsoil in that, since I started it on Amsoil at 3000 miles. When we get another Volvo, I'll see how much oil it goes through, and then make the decision for Amsoil, Mobil 1, or plain old dino oil.

I think Amsoil is best for people who drive a lot of miles (20,000 or more a year) and have an engine that doesn't leak or burn oil. Having to change your oil once a year and your filter twice a year can save a lot of time and money. It will be cheaper in the long run to change Amsoil at 25,000 intervals than some cheap dino oil at 3000 mile intervals.

-Keith

 

[avusblue]

I've always used Mobil 1 and changed it at 4,000 mile intervals. I know that's probably a bit excessive (could probably go 5 to 8K just fine) but I figure regular infusions of clean, high quality, good flowing synthetic oil is the cheapest insurance one can buy for their engine. I drive 2,500 per month on average, so I'm changing every six weeks or so. In Minnesota, with extreme climate changes, this way I can tailor the weight of the oil to the weather.

I use OEM filters (price difference is less than $5 -- again cheap insurance for the best you can get). Never an engine related problem in any of my cars.

 

[Skyline]

Amsoil is a decent product. However, I have a lot of problems with their sales techniques and their unfounded claims. Amsoil actually purchases their PAO base stocks from Mobil, and then add their own additive packages.

For my money, Mobil 1 is easy to get, inexpensive, and proven. I also use Subaru OEM oil filters, since they are actually Purolators. Purolators are among the best oil filters.

If you're looking for something even better than Mobil 1 and other Grp V PAO-based oils, there's Motul and Redline, which are Grp VI ester-based. Motul and Redline are pricey, but unmatched in performance.

 

[Skyline]

Double post.

 

[V8TOYTRUCK]

Avusblue, FYI, mobil 1 0w-30 , 5w-30, and 10w-30 are exactly the same. I spoke with a Lube specialist, and he said they only seperate them so the general public won't get confused.

 

[BuddTX]

Never ending posts on the internet:

What is the best flashlight?

Should I use Synthetic in my new car?

What is better, LED's or Incandecents?

Should I switch over to Synthetic on my older car?

What keychain light should I put on my keys?

What is the best synthetic motor oil?

Before getting into flashlights, I spent many hours reading about synthetic oil and synthetic transmission fluid! ( I use Mobil 1 for both)

 

[avusblue]

BuddTX, LOL! You're right on!

You forgot to mention the age old wifes tale . . . you need to run mineral oil in my new engine to or the "rings won't seat" -- never mind that Porsche, BMW, Corvette, and Viper all run Mobil 1 as their factory fill.

What are some other "perpetual" questions out there . . . I'd offer up:

What's the "best" MiniMag conversion?

Which is the "American" car? The made in Ohio Accord sold by Honda, the made in Canada Dodge Intrepid sold by German owned DaimlerChrysler, or the made in Mexico Chevy Suburban?

Should auctions be allowed in B/S/T?

I'm sure there's lots others . . .

 

[BuddTX]

Let's see, there is the:

What dry dog food is the best? (I give my dog Old Mother Hubbard Wellness, both Lamb and Chicken)

Is cooking better for your dog? (My dog gets a homemade stew, that is mixed with the above mentioned dog food).

The BARF (Bones And Raw Food) diet (more commonly now refered as the RAW diet)is better for dogs than any processed dog food or cooked food, after all, they eat RAW in the wild! While I disagree with the RAW diet, a very good friend of mine feeds her three dogs the RAW diet, and her dogs are just beautiful, and healthy.

Cable or DSL, what is better?

What is the best pick-up truck?

AMD or INTEL?

 

[iddibhai]

MacOS or MSWin... or rather, MSWin or anythingNOTMSWin

 

[Moat]

Years ago (mid 80's), I had a good friend who drove a Pontiac Phoenix (X-car) for about 100,000 miles - on Amsoil - and NEVER changed his oil!! The car was eventually totalled in an accident, somewhere around the 230,000 mi. mark, if memory serves, and still only consumed a neglible amount of oil. The key to his results, supposedly, was the use and regular cleaning/replacement of an add-on external filter that used a roll of TOILET PAPER!! Pretty neat, actually. Apparently, the synthetic base stock molecules are extremely resistant to thermal/shear viscosity breakdown, and as long as you keep the abrasive particulants filtered out, the oil itself should be good for an extremely long time (indefinitely??). Although, I'd be worried about corrosion inhibitors (acid neutralizers) wearing out.

The high mileage/leaking thing is a result of oily plasticizers migrating out of rubber seals in the presence of synthetics - makes seals shrink slightly and reduces their elasticity/flexibility. Not as much of a problem with mineral oils, as its chemistry is closer to the plasticizer itself. This was a problem early on in the use of synthetics, but from what I've heard in the many years since, additives (seal softeners/swellers) are now almost universally added to sucessfully deal with this worry. Not sure about Amsoil, in particular, but I'd imagine so.

I've been a bit curious myself about Amsoil. The last few issues of MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News) included an exhaustive test of a large number of cycle and auto oils, and Amsoil consistently rated near the top (in lab tests). As did Mobil 1. Considering cost and availability, I'd probably go with Mobil 1, myself. Amsoil appears exellent as well, though.

Just don't run ANY synthetic in a leaded fuel burning engine - period. Trust me. I've seen first hand the engine damage that resulted from Mobil's disastrous entry into (and subsequent swift exit from!) the synthetic aviaton piston engine oil market. Mobil AV-1 - ouch!

Bob

 

[snakebite]

we refer to them as spamsoil.
lots of unsubstantiated claims and annoying advertising(sending shills to spam newsgroups)
i just use mobil 1 in a few motorcycles but since i rebuilt them myself i know they wont start leaking.i wouldnt put it in anything high milage that has used dino all its life.

 

[BuddTX]

And for people that DONT want to go the extra expense of a Full Synthetic, I tell them to sub one quart of synthetic for their normal oil. I feel, that for "dino" oil users, that one quart of Mobil 1 is the BEST additive they will ever buy. It sure beats that 20 and 30 dollar a quart snake oil stuff!

 

[Stingray]

I use Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac 1300 diesel spec oil in my (gasoline) car and the synthetic version of the above, or motorcycle specific oil, in my mototcycle.

 

[SilverFox]

Hello Bushman,

I know nothing about Amsoil, but I think that synthetics are good.

I have a 1971 Volvo with over 325000 miles on it. I broke it in using regular oil (the first 45000 miles) and then changed to synthetic oil. We would purchase a 55 gallon drum from Lubricating Engineers in Texas and were using the oil in two stroke motorcycles. When Mobil 1 came out, I switched to that and still use it.

I change the oil filter every 6000 miles, and change both oil and filter at 12000 miles. At 6000 miles, I am down a quart, and I have to add a quart at around 10000 miles.

The car is 33 years old and the drive train is going strong, but the body needs work.

My wife also drives a 1971 Volvo and has over 285000 miles on it. Her car has been run on regular oil its whole life. Her car burns oil and has a leak at the rear seal. I have to add a quart at about 1500 miles. I change the oil and filter every 3000 miles.

At this point, the synthetic oil engine is in better condition than the regular oil engine, but the testing is still in progress. I'll let you know when we reach 500000 miles.

Tom

 

[Ardent]

Starting about 12 years ago I used both Amsoil and Redline synthetic oil products. I had installed the Amsoil bypass filter on a couple cars and it made a difference keeping the oil clean. Today I use Redline products in all my cars. It seems to be one of the best, if not THE best, and a large number of enthusiasts and club racers use it and recommend it. I'm driving my Dads old 90 Accord with about 179,000 miles on it now. It burns no oil, and taking the valve cover off, the synthetic keeps the inside of the motor looking like new. I also use their MTL in the transmission (manual transmission lubricant).
My philosophy with oil change intervals has been to use the best I can find, and change it twice a year. Even considering expensive oil, its cheap insurance. Best wear protection, better fuel economy and better protection in case off cooling system failure are plusses.

Regards

Arden

 

[rrtanton]

Definitely, add "racers and oil" to the list of Great Debates. And just to make things that much more confusing, remember all the different TYPES of racing out there. As a 2-cycle kart racer (we WANT to burn our oil), I'm caught in the great debate between synthetic and/or castor oils (and which brands) in my Yamaha (I lean toward straight Redline synthetic.)

I've heard these special high-quality, replaceable-cartridge filters are hands-down the best thing for cars, more important than which type of synthetic you use...anybody else had experience with them?

rusty

 

[Moat]

Originally posted by rrtanton:
I'm caught in the great debate between synthetic and/or castor oils (and which brands) in my Yamaha (I lean toward straight Redline synthetic.)

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Awww....... but what's a real race without the smell of bean oil wafting thru the paddock.........?

Bob

 

[logical]

The two biggest debates on the Harley Davidson sites are easily "synthetic vs. dinosaur oil" and "electronic fuel injection vs. carburators" and maybe "Softails vs. Touring bikes" but that is a distant third. Corbin vs. Mustang aftermarket seats is a hot one too.

Put me down for a Softail Fat Boy, a Corbin Dual Tour, EFI and Redline synthetics.

I like that Redline is used by lots of racers and fleet owners, I can order it easily online and that they aren't into hype like Amsoil is.

 

[WhiteAsSnow]

[ QUOTE ]
I like that Redline is used by lots of racers and fleet owners, I can order it easily online and that they aren't into hype like Amsoil is.

[/ QUOTE ]

logical -- where do you buy Redline Online?