WadeF
Flashlight Enthusiast
Dslextreme is the VERY LAST place I would send my worst enemy to buy flashlights.
Have you ever done business with them? If you did, did you have a bad experience?
Dslextreme is the VERY LAST place I would send my worst enemy to buy flashlights.
Actually,SureFire's use of the term "max" relating the output is one of my biggest bugbears about their marketing. It's a blanket term they've been using for a few years and there is precious little justification for it as far as I can tell. It's simply not true that the ratings are 'max' or 'peak' 'limits'.Let's not inflate Surefire's specs as well:
"And it continues producing useful light levels for an impressive 12 hours on a single set of batteries."
MAX is claimed to be 80 lumens, but they don't say for how long you will get 80 lumens. It could be the first 5-10 minutes, first hour, first 4 hours, etc. It says it will produce useful light for 12 hours. My P3D Fenix will produce useful light for around 70 hours on 2xCR123a's.
I just picked one up and didn't think it was all that bad. I plan on trying out a CREE replacement. A friend has the Inova T4 which claims 125 lumens. They appeared to have the same output and throw. The G2L doesn't have too much throw, but I wasn't expecting it too.
ampdude,
What do you find disappointing?
- The P60L's lack of throw compared to the Inova T4?
- The P60L's output appears similar to the T4 although the T4 is rated at 125 lumens compared to the P60L's rated 80 lumens?
- That output/runtime charts were not provided so that this important characteristic could not be compared/considered?
Remember that the P60L is an alternative to the P60 and as such will not have a beam optimised for throw.
There are few who can actually confirm a lumen rating using integrating sphere equipment but many who can perform their own output/runtime charts which in my opinion are significantly more useful than knowing the exact lumen output. I've yet to see any for the G2L or 6PL - has anybody posted one yet?
Al
I'm wondering (and hoping) that Surefire will make the modules available and they won't be too expensive so us modders aren't so aprehensive about ripping apart.
Here I go again. This whole thread is based on subjective observation concerning the output of the G2L. CPF'ers would be well served if they purchased a simple, inexpensive lightmeter to compare their lights to each other. Simple bounce off the ceiling in a small room recording lux readings on a lightmeter will give many answers to questions about light output. Not scientific like an Integrated Sphere, but a bounce test can be repeatable, and if you compare two lights during a given time frame you will be able to compare one light against another, and see which light outputs more light and by what percentage increase. Go further and build a light box, such as used on flashlightreviews.com and you have more accurate information. And don't forget, you can always do lux measurements at one meter with your lightmeter.
Bill
Yes, the lightmeter would be sensitive enought to notice the drop in output. In fact they are usually very sensitive to the slightest fluxuations. I check all of my new lights for drop off after they are turned on. When drop offs are extreme, like 10% fairly quick after turn on, it is usually due to quick heat build up, probable heat sinking issues. The Seoul P4's can have real heat sink issues, and I would always check output drop off when I receive a newly Seoul'd modded light. Lux V is the king of heat issues, particularly with the KL4, and surprise, surprise, the KL6 which in actuality is not well heatsinked. A drop of 5-7% will often occur with many Luxeon, Seoul, or Cree'd led lights, followed by a stable flat runtime.
Yes, a simple lightmeter can tell a lot.
Bill
Bill