Anyone else having this problem with the EX10?

[jbviau]

Yup, I've been having contact issues also. Just emailed Fenix-Store about it.

For example, sometimes when I'm ramping the light will just go off or behave strangely (e.g. flicker or jump around in terms of light level). Also, when I twist the light on it never goes straight on. Instead I get a little pulse before it comes on constant. In other words, every time I twist (no matter what level it's set at) I get a little on-off-on sequence in quick succession. Occasionally I'll also have trouble twisting off. The light will want to stay on despite my having twisted off.

I've tried opening up the gap in the split ring a bit without much success. In fact, the split ring fell out once or twice. What is it supposed to latch onto when you put it back on? The spring underneath it? At any rate, while the ring was off I used a toothpick to gently poke down the spring that the ring depresses, and I think it might be the culprit. It definitely sticks. There seems to be a burr on the spring that's catching the side of the light. Not sure how I should go about fixing it. Maybe I'll try what Stillphoto and Beamhead suggested once I have a chance to attempt to remove the bezel.

Anyway, I really like the light, but I have to agree that in my specific case the switching mechanism isn't as reliable as it should be. Hope there's an easy solution.

 

[LED-holic]

Hmm, sorry you guys are having problems. 4Sevens will take care of you, I'm sure.

My ND10 has strange behavior just a few times, but it's due to me not being consistent with my own pressure, and the partial contact of the piston with the ring in the head.

I find if I'm deliberate in my actions, it works 100% as it's supposed to. But if I'm ultra lazy and only apply partial pressure or inconsistent pressure, the MCU reads the pressure as multiple presses and acts accordingly.

But overall these problems are user induced and not an issue with the light. I find the piston design to be the best UI for me, so far.

Hope you all get your issues resolved.

 

[jbviau]

LED, I'm sure you're right that the deliberateness of the press matters to some extent, but being more deliberate only helps me so much. 7777 will take care of me--no worries there. I just would like to avoid sending the light back.

 

[enLIGHTenment]

But overall these problems are user induced and not an issue with the light.

Well, no. If an electronically controlled switch flickers unless it is pressed 'very deliberately,' then the debouncing logic wasn't implemented properly. That's not user error. It's a bug or a design flaw.

 

[orcinus]

Debouncing could be a tad difficult to program in this case, because the switch has to support momentary action too.

 

[ecallahan]

I've been playing around with this light quite a bit, and another thing that has helped me with my initial problem is not screwing the head on tight. I screw it on tight, then back it off a bit, and the switch really seems to work much better now - you get a longer travel to the piston which gives me more feedback, and also seems to get rid of any eratic lighting.

 

[abvidledUK]

Welcome to the world of Version 1 testers.

 

[Beamhead]

Welcome to the world of Version 1 testers.

This "version 1 tester" is very satisfied with both lights.

 

[LED-holic]

This "version 1 tester" is very satisfied with both lights.

+2

This "version 1 tester" is going to buy a 2nd ND10, which is a first for any light in the collection.

 

[half-watt]

Debouncing could be a tad difficult to program in this case, because the switch has to support momentary action too.

if the debounce is designed properly (and i don't know whether it is or not), this should NOT be an issue.

have written a fair bit of s/w debounce code earlier in my career while developing embedded systems h/w and s/w. debounce is aimed at changes in switch state that occur too fast for a human to have produced it. even the briefest intentional/unintentional human initiated momentary operation of the switch ought to be longer than what a debounce routine (or circuit, if implemented in h/w) would be looking for and interpreting as switching bounce. a high sampling rate of the switch is used to make sure that any very brief momentary "bounce" is not missed.

all that said, i don't know the specifics of NiteCore's debounce design, so perhaps there is a problem in this area.

 

[half-watt]

i'm having my own problems w/an EX10 just rcv'd today.

can't get the click gesture for MAX to work. 4seven's video clearly says CLICK-HOLD to jump to MAX. the instruction booklet says CLICK-CLICK-HOLD to jump to MAX. *NEITHER* works. first tried a used Tenergy cell out of a Ra Twisty-100-Tw. then tried two unused SF CR123A cells.

with all of the cells:

1. twisty operation of the EX10 will give a MAX-ish (very bright) output.

2. momentary mode will give MAX-ish output

3. ramping will ramp up to a MAX-ish output

4. MIN is easily activated w/a dbl-click gesture

5. all three cells when placed back in the Ra Twisty-100-Tw will burn on its MAX setting for two minutes with no perceivable step-down in brightness.

6. doesn't appear to have any problem w/the ring sticking when i inspect the ring.


any have any ideas? many thanks, pj aka half-watt

 

[half-watt]

ok. here's what's goin' on.

talked to Matt at Fenix-Store. he was very helpful.

i can now reliably and fairly consistenly get the light to JUMP to the MAX setting.

so, what was the issue?

OLD and SLOW. me that is. thought i was doin' the CLICK-PRESS(and HOLD) fast enough. i was goin' almost as fast as the old bones and muscles in my fingers could manage [Note: i have ZERO problems puttin' a NovaTac EDC 120P through any of the button click "gestures" to activate any of the modes.]

however, i wasn't goin' quite fast enough. even though i was completing the entire CLICK-PRESS(and HOLD) in less than or equal to 0.5s, it was not fast enough.

if i go just a tad faster (i can't go any faster than one measly "tad" - PERIOD!!!), i can consistenly and reliably make the JUMP to MAX.

this is much faster than i ever would have expected.

so, if anyone else has this particular problem, just try it a wee bit faster and it might work. also, make sure to HOLD the PRESS for 0.5s to 1.0s. it takes at least (maybe exactly???) 0.5s for the light to JUMP to MAX. if i release the PD too soon, it won't make the JUMP to MAX.

hope this info helps someone.

 

[jbviau]

...when I twist the light on it never goes straight on. Instead I get a little pulse before it comes on constant. In other words, every time I twist on (no matter what level it's set at) I get a little on-off-on sequence in quick succession...

Update: Removing the bezel, lens, reflector, o-ring, and light engine and lubing everywhere (as suggested first by Stillphoto) fixed all of the problems I reported earlier...except the one above.

Maybe the twisty oddness doesn't even qualify as a problem. Has anyone else experienced it?

p.s. Disassembling this light was very easy.

 

[guiri]

Thanks for the reply, but my EX10 doesn't have a head logo, just a logo on the body of the light. I'll try and search for that thread.

Mine only has a body logo. Does that mean that we are NOT special like you guys?

 

[MKLight]

It seems as if the EX10 has one body logo. The D10 has two on the separate body panels. Hope this helps!

Mike

 

[senna94]

Got my EX10 today and am overall impressed with the light. I opened it up cleaned and lubed as everyone has suggested and it worked flawlessly. My problem started when I switched from a primary Duracell to an AWRCR123. I just could not get the switch to work and the modes just were not activating at all. I then went back to the primary and it worked fine. I then replaced the Duracell with a Batterystation primary and it also worked fine. At this point it occured to me to compare the battery dimensions. While both the primaries and the AWRCR123 are the same overall height shoulder to shoulder I did notice that the cathode terminal on the AW cell does not extend out as far as the ones on the primaries. I wonder if someone with some vernier callipers or a micrometer could check and verify these dimension.

Paul