Anyone get NP3 finish on Surefire?

etc

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http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm

It's supposed to be the most durable thing available, but it does make it look a bit "silver".

I am thinking of applying this to my Surefire 9P which is HA-II (although I am not real sure what disadvantages it has versus HA-III.)
 
There is no such thing as HA II. HA does not mean Anodizing. The H means Hard. HA is short for Hard Anodizing. Type II anodizing is not hard anodizing and thus should not be called HA II and that is why HA II does not exist.

Hard Anodizing, HA, Type III, HA III whatever you chose to call it is thicker and tougher then normal type II anodizing. Because if it's thickness it is more resistant to scratches but it is also harder to color. It can also be easy to chip since aluminum oxide(what anodizing is made of) is a brittle material(compared to the aluminum it grows on).

I don't know anything about the NP3. It does remind me of Duracoat.
 
Thanks for the lesson on type II vs. type III.

I've hadn't issues thus far with the type II on Surefire 9P. It seems to hold really well and is beautiful to look at it. However, if I have any issues, I will probably apply NP3 to it.

This will make this Malkoff M60 Surefire surely one of a kind.

I need to talk to Robar and make sure that NP3 will adhere well to alum.
 
I think it should. But I will wait until this one wears off (if it even does) before I apply NP3. It should be way nicer than HA-III.

On the other hand, if I get a Leef/FM body, which is already HA-III, might not make sense to do it.
 
NP3 should adhere to a 9P's aluminum body. NP3 is used on pistols with an aluminum frame, so a 9P body should be no problem.
 
That's real good news.

I was kind of disappointed that 9P did not come with HA-III like C3. However, I got it for $60 (Ebay) and don't mind putting another 50 tokens in it, it might come out better than the C3.
 

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