The only red headlights that I have been able to find either have red as an afterthought, such as one or two red LEDs on the side and a white main beam, or use a cluster of lower powered red LEDs, or use inefficient filters over the lens. None of these solutions are really optimal for me, as with the lights that have a white beam you may accidentally trigger it spoiling your night vision, and LED clusters have too much glare visible from the sides.
I'm getting some red 2.5w Luxeon star modules in to test on modding the PT Eos, mainly for astronomy use. I'll post once I have some results, but it will take a few weeks for them to get here.
The red side of the Photon Fusion is probably the brightest red headlight I've seen, but I don't think it's bright enough for what you want.
The Fenix L2T on high with liths and the red slip-on filter will light up frog and croc eyes at 30, maybe out to 50 yards. But that's about all you'll see, it just the eye reflection. You could probably put that in one of the NiteIze headbands for the MiniMag.
I was thinking also about a good bright red flashlight. Saw these new
LED clusters for cars -brake/turn/running signals replacement bulbs
Bought 2 for $15. They drain 93mA & 34mA: brake & running @ 12volts.
I cut it open a bit and was able to bypass the resistors/diodes inside
and it'll run on 6volts draining 44mA. Good directional beam,
It's a nice red, and lots of light.
Think a 9volt battery and a switch with this would be a cool little light.
I'm building one. Its already working in solderless board and is ready to be fitted into a headlamp. I bought this dirt cheap incandescent headlamp for 4xAA. One red 350mA cree and reflector from DX; power is from MicroPuck 2009 in buck configuration; And I also have regulation in 1024 steps using my own PIC MCU program and a MOSFET. I was truly amazed that in 1/1000 brightness it still provides usable illumination and consumes grand total of 1,5mA from 5V source. Max power is around 400mA.
The buck convertor is 90% efficient and LED is operating at some 2V so only about 120mA from batteries is needed for full power. So its gonna last very long. There is even enough room for another white cree ...
1) 3×1W LED, Each LED 50~60lm, total 165lm
2) 3-in-1 optical lens (30-degree)
3) Metal Core PCB for heat sinking
4) With mounting holes on the Metal Core PCB so that extra heat sink can be mounted
5) To be driven with constant current 350mA led driver
6) Colors available: white (6000-6500k), warm white (2800-3300k), red, green, blue,
I'm willing to bet the coloured versions are only 1/3-1/2 the lumens of the white. That seems to be the case with most of the ones I read data sheets for when hunting for a suitable replacement for use in my headlamp. The best I could find were only about 44 lumens at 2.5 Watt.
Well, the PT Eos mod is done. I used a LXHL-MD1D Luxeon Star, and the net result is quite bright, around 800/300/65 lux at 1m as measured by my EA30. As a comparison on low, that is about 10% brighter than my Jet-1 MK. IBS, although it looks visually at least 50% brighter so that may come down to meter accuracy with 625nm light. I need a lower low for astronomy, so I'll probably see what can be done with the regulator, to see if I can get this down to 80/30/6 or so.
The LED I used is rated at 44 lumens/1.1W, so some of those Cree XR red LEDs rated at twice the current would be very intense if driven at capacity, assuming your headlamp could dissipate the heat.
I got my red cree and tried it out but I don't have any real way to show it to you all. I also bought an edison in plain white to try and what became immediately evident is that the lower forward voltage of the red cree makes it easier to drive. It is a retina burner driven by 2 AAA's but the edison barely glows with the same power. I left the red bulb in my EOS with no reflector and you get a nice globe of light. The red is sort of creepy with no white light option. It is a nice dark ruby red. Range of about 15-20'. Maybe a bit more than that. It is insanely bright compared to what red 5mm's produce.
I tried the edison in my Icon but due to the high voltage it requires, it isn't any brighter than the luxeon that was in it originally. There seems to be about 3v going through the lux and the 5mm's. My multimeter is very primative so that could be +/-. I think the edison might be ok mounted where the 5mm's are just for flood, if that won't damage the circuit.
I once installed a star mounted Cree X-RE 7090 WC in a Streamlight Argo HP. It was a really easy modification, but the stock reflector was not exactly well suited for this task.. The beam had an ugly doughnut hole in the middle, but otherwise the tint and brightness were fantastic. I solved the problem of the reflector by sanding it down carefully and then laying a piece of wax paper of the dome of the LED. What turned out was this creamy bright light with absolutely no artifacts at all... It's a pity I lost that headlamp..:mecry:
I have however built a new SL Argo HP and installed a Luxeon 1watt orange/red high domed star and it fits fine. With the reflector there is a super concentrated spot, with a very very insignificant doughnut in the center, and without the reflector there is a fantastic flood of light that fills at least 170 degrees of vision. It's nice because you don't have to turn your head to illuminate something, just your eyes.
One of my intended projects was to build a super headlamp with 4 red X-RE's mounted onto a computer heatsink, very floody optics installed and a variable voltage buckpuck taking power from two 18650 batteries. That would be amazing! :naughty:
Haven't gotten around to it yet though.