Arc4 Testing
- Thread starter Gransee
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jtice
Flashaholic
Awsome, thats a great setup.
Damn I love how we can customize this thing to our liking.
Yea,, about that knurling though... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
But, what if....
Lets say the light is set to turn on at my secondary (bright) setting. If the light is off,, and I click it 3 times, will it goto that low light setting imediately? I hope. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Or, do I have to first turn the light on, then click it 3 times to get to the low light setting.
Damn I love how we can customize this thing to our liking.
Yea,, about that knurling though... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
But, what if....
Lets say the light is set to turn on at my secondary (bright) setting. If the light is off,, and I click it 3 times, will it goto that low light setting imediately? I hope. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Or, do I have to first turn the light on, then click it 3 times to get to the low light setting.
Gransee
Flashlight Enthusiast
I thought someone answered the boost question already.
First off, it is now called "Full Power" function not boost. Second, the highest power level is now level 1 (formarly level 0). That level is now settable for the primary and secondary settings.
Therefore, you may set your primary to be the brightest possible setting.
Currently, the code is still being tweaked. The brightest setting is about 500mA and runs for about 1.75 hours on a fresh battery. The unit runs for 15-20 minutes before heat cycling to setting 2. It is hardly the "boost" mode of our original discussions. In the production units, I am hoping for a higher setting 1. Maybe 700mA like I originally planned? If that is possible, the run time and thermal cycle period will be shorter of course. We may then factory default the light at level 2 so run time is good.
jtice, the light must be latched on before the "triple click" will be accepted. But if you have the primary set for the lowest setting, why would you need to triple click from off?
Peter
First off, it is now called "Full Power" function not boost. Second, the highest power level is now level 1 (formarly level 0). That level is now settable for the primary and secondary settings.
Therefore, you may set your primary to be the brightest possible setting.
Currently, the code is still being tweaked. The brightest setting is about 500mA and runs for about 1.75 hours on a fresh battery. The unit runs for 15-20 minutes before heat cycling to setting 2. It is hardly the "boost" mode of our original discussions. In the production units, I am hoping for a higher setting 1. Maybe 700mA like I originally planned? If that is possible, the run time and thermal cycle period will be shorter of course. We may then factory default the light at level 2 so run time is good.
jtice, the light must be latched on before the "triple click" will be accepted. But if you have the primary set for the lowest setting, why would you need to triple click from off?
Peter
Peter, one thing that's confusing me is how to tell whether I'm in primary or secondary mode at any given time. Assuming, I don't have Force Primary active, how would one tell if they're in primary or secondary, without forcing primary active, changing brightness, and firing back up to see if you change the right mode or not?
jtice
Flashaholic
Peter,
Sence "full power" mode is only for short durations, even when made a secondary, or primary setting,, I really think it is a good idea to make it as bright as possible. IE 700 mA or so.
Sence the light is programmable, and has many settings, you might as well make the highest setting really high. That gives the user alittle more versatility.
Sence "full power" mode is only for short durations, even when made a secondary, or primary setting,, I really think it is a good idea to make it as bright as possible. IE 700 mA or so.
Sence the light is programmable, and has many settings, you might as well make the highest setting really high. That gives the user alittle more versatility.
jtice
Flashaholic
Mr Blue,,,, 4 settings
primary,
secondary,
full power "boost" ---hold---
low light level (dimmest setting) ---3 clicks---
primary,
secondary,
full power "boost" ---hold---
low light level (dimmest setting) ---3 clicks---
Gransee
Flashlight Enthusiast
Ray, it is quite possible to get the primary/secondary confused. If you don't use the force primary, it won't matter anyways.
Btw, someone asked if the settings will survive a battery change. The Arc4 has non-volitile "Flash memory". We can program any setting you want to exist for as long as you want. Most of the settings we choose to persist while a few (like tac2) reset to default with the next power cycle. It is all a matter of what makes the light easiest to use.
And yes, we use flash memory maintenance routines to rotate the memory cells and keep them viable.
Peter
Btw, someone asked if the settings will survive a battery change. The Arc4 has non-volitile "Flash memory". We can program any setting you want to exist for as long as you want. Most of the settings we choose to persist while a few (like tac2) reset to default with the next power cycle. It is all a matter of what makes the light easiest to use.
And yes, we use flash memory maintenance routines to rotate the memory cells and keep them viable.
Peter
[ QUOTE ]
gatesy3 said:
Sorry to ask again about what must seem to be already have been stated but just to confirm ---- in setting Primary to the highest level---- this is I understand boost mode, does it only stay at this level for as long as the circuitry allows and then drop down to next level?
[/ QUOTE ]
Correct.
gatesy3 said:
Sorry to ask again about what must seem to be already have been stated but just to confirm ---- in setting Primary to the highest level---- this is I understand boost mode, does it only stay at this level for as long as the circuitry allows and then drop down to next level?
[/ QUOTE ]
Correct.
Seems like a lot of questions can be answered by going through the manual. I post a link here for convenience
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB31&Number=436125&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=2#Post437954
Also seems like the most asked is about the brightness settings/how many etc. You can actually have 4 levels if you set your high setting to other than the highest level. Mine is setup so that my high setting is 3 notches below the max, and low is another 4 below that. The light remembers the last setting unless you force it into primary through the options. At night, I set it to secondary (low beam) and when I gotta go potty, I just turn on the light and it will remember the last setting. That way I don't blind my wife when nature calls. There's no way to get to the lowest setting unless the light is on already. Triple clicking when the light is off will not work. The light is setup this way on the assumption that most users will use the primary and secondary the most, and when you need really dim, you just triple click from where you are or when you need really bright, you just press down and hold to get "boost". This type of interface is optimum from a simplicity standpoint without having to go through excessive clicking. Three (or four) brightness levels is plenty in my opinion.
The more I use this light, the more I'm convinced I need it. This may be blasphemy but it will replace the AAA on my key chain--well, maybe not since I do need a backup and will also replace an overdriven KL1. It will allow me carry two less lights. For the average flashaholic, an Arc AAA and an Arc4 will provide 95% of your needs. I do like blindingly bright lights on occasion but that's what my incandescents and L4/L5 are for. Unfortunately, those can't fit in my pockets easily as an Arc4 and AAA and will not be part of my EDC.
CM
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB31&Number=436125&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=2#Post437954
Also seems like the most asked is about the brightness settings/how many etc. You can actually have 4 levels if you set your high setting to other than the highest level. Mine is setup so that my high setting is 3 notches below the max, and low is another 4 below that. The light remembers the last setting unless you force it into primary through the options. At night, I set it to secondary (low beam) and when I gotta go potty, I just turn on the light and it will remember the last setting. That way I don't blind my wife when nature calls. There's no way to get to the lowest setting unless the light is on already. Triple clicking when the light is off will not work. The light is setup this way on the assumption that most users will use the primary and secondary the most, and when you need really dim, you just triple click from where you are or when you need really bright, you just press down and hold to get "boost". This type of interface is optimum from a simplicity standpoint without having to go through excessive clicking. Three (or four) brightness levels is plenty in my opinion.
The more I use this light, the more I'm convinced I need it. This may be blasphemy but it will replace the AAA on my key chain--well, maybe not since I do need a backup and will also replace an overdriven KL1. It will allow me carry two less lights. For the average flashaholic, an Arc AAA and an Arc4 will provide 95% of your needs. I do like blindingly bright lights on occasion but that's what my incandescents and L4/L5 are for. Unfortunately, those can't fit in my pockets easily as an Arc4 and AAA and will not be part of my EDC.
CM
georget98
Enlightened
Lowest setting from off:
- hold light in hand
- place other hand over lens
- click on
- triple click to dimmest
- remove hand from lens
Don't try this with the Arc6, you'll burn a hole through your hand. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
- hold light in hand
- place other hand over lens
- click on
- triple click to dimmest
- remove hand from lens
Don't try this with the Arc6, you'll burn a hole through your hand. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
jtice
Flashaholic
lol TWO handed operation?
Oh, that just wont do at all. lol ;P
Oh, that just wont do at all. lol ;P
MicroE
Enlightened
Software?
Flash memory?
Microprocessors?
We're still talking about a FLASHLIGHT here, right?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Now I'm waiting for Peter to tell us that the firmware can be upgraded on the internet like my mp3 player. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I love the design of this light!
Flash memory?
Microprocessors?
We're still talking about a FLASHLIGHT here, right?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Now I'm waiting for Peter to tell us that the firmware can be upgraded on the internet like my mp3 player. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I love the design of this light!
carmel
Newly Enlightened
[ QUOTE ]
jtice said:
Peter,
Sence "full power" mode is only for short durations, even when made a secondary, or primary setting,, I really think it is a good idea to make it as bright as possible. IE 700 mA or so.
Sence the light is programmable, and has many settings, you might as well make the highest setting really high. That gives the user alittle more versatility.
[/ QUOTE ]
\
I agree completely! To have the option of a particularly powerful setting immediately accessible at all times, even if only momentarily, has great benefits, especially when outside. I liked Peter's original idea of the "boost" mode along these lines very much, and hope he carries through with it by making the highest setting as close to 700mA as he can; this would obviously not be feasible for the primary or secondary settings, but would be extremely useful for momentary use.
carmel
jtice said:
Peter,
Sence "full power" mode is only for short durations, even when made a secondary, or primary setting,, I really think it is a good idea to make it as bright as possible. IE 700 mA or so.
Sence the light is programmable, and has many settings, you might as well make the highest setting really high. That gives the user alittle more versatility.
[/ QUOTE ]
\
I agree completely! To have the option of a particularly powerful setting immediately accessible at all times, even if only momentarily, has great benefits, especially when outside. I liked Peter's original idea of the "boost" mode along these lines very much, and hope he carries through with it by making the highest setting as close to 700mA as he can; this would obviously not be feasible for the primary or secondary settings, but would be extremely useful for momentary use.
carmel
Bernhard
Newly Enlightened
Yes, I want it to be 700mA for the highest setting. Bring it on /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
There's not much new information to report from today's testing. Testing is going well. The Arc4 is working as expected. It went to work with me today in my coat pocket. No issues with accidently turning on. I had to intall a new cell today. I used a SureFire cell. Power up sequence worked fine, with no issues.
Likebright
Enlightened
Peter, would like a full power of 700 mA. if possible.
Thanks testers, all sounds sumwhat clearer to me now./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Mike /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
Thanks testers, all sounds sumwhat clearer to me now./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Mike /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
I'm dense. How does the highest level (once called boost) compare to the LSH-P? From the pictures it looks the same with a nicer beam on the Arc4. If the LSH doesnt get hot enough to require an automatic drop in level why does the Arc 4 drop off from the highest level?
Also, for me the clip is a must. I NEED hands-free operation for work and . But the clip does look a little strange and clunky. It needs a little refinement- the screws need to be a little more flush. My knives have tiny screws on the clips and I've never had one break off. Maybe a wire clip like spyderco knives would look sleeker.
All in all, congratulation Peter on setting the bar so high and clearing it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
Also, for me the clip is a must. I NEED hands-free operation for work and . But the clip does look a little strange and clunky. It needs a little refinement- the screws need to be a little more flush. My knives have tiny screws on the clips and I've never had one break off. Maybe a wire clip like spyderco knives would look sleeker.
All in all, congratulation Peter on setting the bar so high and clearing it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
BlindedByTheLite
Flashlight Enthusiast
aright, this might've already been covered, but i 4got, and i'm not in the mood to dig thru to find it right now..
but will the assortment of powerpacks be compatible with the Arc4? or will it have its own?
but will the assortment of powerpacks be compatible with the Arc4? or will it have its own?
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