FWIW, I have the 2C ($24) and 1AA ($10) versions of this light. You can get them at target. I think this is the same 3AAA light as the one you found at DX -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260197827283
GOOD Aspects
Build quality, fit and finish is top notch on both. No sharp unfinished edges anywhere, knurled texture is smooth and consistent around the lights. Very good fit with Duracell alkalines, no cell rattle. Even the lanyard hole is smooth as silk.
Very good run-times from both... although I imagine the AAA version would be the shortest runner of the 3 with its limited capacity. Unless the 3AAA cells are in parallel, which I kind of doubt.
Tail caps are durable, smooth engaging threads, with solid contact springs inside. Tail caps are flat, so you can do the "bounce off the ceiling" trick... very nice with throwey beam pattern lights.
Good water resistance. I dim the lights and my kids use them in the bath tub as play toys... pretty burtal too I might add.
Switch is solid feeling, thick rubber boot, does not accidentally engage in my backpack.
1AA Modes = On: on/off/on/off flashing mode : Off
2C Modes = On (reverse clicky) : Off
DC-DC regulation is pretty good. It limits the initial "blast"
with new alkalines, yet allows them to run dim, very low as cells deplete. It does not cut-off near the end of the cell charge.
BAD Aspects
The Aspheric lenses are soft-ish plastic, and can scratch easily. They are not recessed too far into the head so they can be easy to scratch too if you are not careful. I guess the flip side of this is that there is NO wasted light spilled onto the shroud of the head. So, every lumen from the nichia LED is emitted too the viewing area (except for transmission losses through the lens).
The head is epoxied/swaged to the body so the lens/LED assembly can not be removed. If either fails, repair would be difficult if not impossible.
NEUTRAL Aspects (it comes down to preference)
1AA- The beam pattern as you illustrate is VERY focused. Takes some getting used too. Near-field (within ~4 feet) can be difficult because the beam is so tight. Bounce off the ceiling trick works wonders to illuminate a desktop. The beam does open up the farther you project. The beam opens to a 4 foot diameter circle at the end of a ~23 foot hallway. You almost need to have a kind of tunnel vision mentality while using it, looking only at the bright spot. Peripheral field of view is lit only by light that is
reflected from the central hot spot.
1AA needs more lumens (IMHO) its good for use inside the house. It will easily light a small room, stair case or hallway. But outside it doesn't have the throw. It has that defined beam projection, that opens up the farther away you shine it.... but the single AA / Nichia combo runs out of steam at the ~20 foot mark. It is
slightly brighter than my incan minimag, so I think its in the ~15 Lumen range. Although the white/blue color of the nichia LED could be tricking me into thinking its brighter than the orange/yellow minimag. The flip side of it is that the Nichia LED (with its lower output) will run for a long time.
2C is much better, and IMHO worth the extra $$ over the 1AA. Not only is it brighter (~42L), but its lens is not purely Aspherical. It has a small ring around the projection lens that lets light flood to the sides. Not massive amounts of flood, but a usable amount (IMHO). The central beam follows the same pattern as the 1AA, and opens up to about 4 feet diameter at ~23 feet distance. The 2C however can throw farther with its higher Lumen output. It will project a usable beam out to the ~35-40 foot mark and usably light up my side-yard.
Take this with a grain of salt... Theoretically the 3AAA version is adding an extra 1.2V to the DC-DC regulator. That should in theory yield a brighter light than either of mine. I am
somewhat skeptical of Chinese lights that use that 3AAA cell holder, and would hesitate to recommend one outright. I have 2 lights that use it and one has developed an intermittent contact in the holder... heres a pic... I had to re-flow some solder to try and fix it, unfortunately the plastic melted a little and hence the intermitency remains (to a lesser degree). The second light however works fine.
