backpacking light

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Generally speaking, perfect, smooth, beams aren't necessary for most outdoor tasks. However, since having lights with good beams, I've found they do have benefits when reading, working on or adjusting small equipment, finding slivers in your skin, small items in the grass or carpeting, tent floor, etc. Even at a distance, a smooth beam will help you to spot and identify animals or people in the woods sooner than a light with a bad, artifact filled beam.

To reiterate, a perfect beam's usefulness is often overstated, especially outdoors, but sometimes a good beam is worth its price.

Adding Scotch Satin tape to all of my cheaper lights has been WELL worth the time spent. I often use a light to find small items and that's where a smooth beam really shines.
 
I would say a perfectly smooth beam that passes the white wall test may not be necessary, but I disagree that a smooth beam is of no practical value. If you pan your light around over scenery, any dark or bright bands cause your eyes to dither, trying to adjust for changing levels of brightness. This is very distracting and can cause a time delay in properly identifying what you're seeing. I would also say it may even cause eye strain.

Paul. I appreciate your views about dim light, but I don't always find the "just getting by" approach to be all that satisfying. Sometimes you can simply fail to identify a target because your light just isn't bright enough. That's why I use atleast two lights. One flood beam, kept as low as possible, and one for spotting. Ideally, even a spotting light should be dimmable, as you don't want to hurt NV or waste power.
 
I carry a headlamp on all my trips, plus a modded mini-mag (LED) as backup (just replaced by an Ultra-G). I like the BD Gemini; haven't used a PT Yukon HL yet. For back-up you could also go with an Infinity, or I-ultra. Since I'm usually traveling internationally, I go with AA and AAA's, but this may not be a concern in your case.
 
I'd take an Arc 4.
1) It's very, very small and light.
2) It's very bright on high.
3) It has 3 easy-to-get-with-one-hand light levels, with the dim beam being perfect for close up night work.
4) On medium to low beams, the battery lasts a long time.
5) It has a clip, so you can clip it to your baseball cap to make it a headlamp.
 
Two anecdotes related to headlights for backpacking/climbing: A few years ago I took an assortment of lights down to climb in the Andes. Turned out I only used the Petzl Tikka- the other lights were not necessary when you have to go light. One night I forgot to turn off the Tikka after summiting one peak- so when I reached for my helmet the next night for another climb it was still shining, since I was somewhat hypoxic and the thing is so light you forget it's on your helmet. I used it for the second night without any problems- crossing crevasses, snowbridges, etc., still running strong from 1am through twilight. With the newer model, the Tikka Plus, you've got an even brighter light, so i use that light for lightweight backpacking or climbing all the time.

As a funny side note a few years ago I agonized over which light to take for a climb in the Alaska range. I purchased a Petzl Arctic, since I was going to be in the Arctic afterall. Turns out though that when I got there I forgot that the sun never dipped low enough for it to get dark enough to use a light of any kind; even at midnight it was plenty bright.

I just came back from 2 weeks in the Tetons, where I used the Tikka Plus. I had brought along the Firefly with more throw, but never used it because the Tikka Plus was fine, so I'll probably cut out the Firefly or similar throw light next time I do any summer backpacking, just because I'm becoming almost addicted to lightweight backpacking as I am to flashlights.

As a park ranger on patrol I use a Matrix 2- check out Backpackinglight.com- they give it the highest rating and if you're moving fast at night i agree, but you don't need that kind of light for most things you do at night as a backpacker, such as adjusting the tent fly or boiling water. For search and rescue and quieting rowdy campers I resort to more high powered lights.
 
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I live in So Cal and am just going to the local mountains for a couple days to get my feet wet then maybe try a longer trip. I think i'm going to take the 4aa propolymer (to shine at the trees) and my little keymate. I will also look at the different led's and purchase and bring one of those. If these lights weigh to much i'll just have to sacrfice something not as important, like food?
 
Some old Camp Perry gravel-belly said: "Only accurate rifles are interesting."

I think the same way about beamspots. Only smooth and clean ones are desirable to me. Why "make do" with a ringy, mangy, artifact festooned beamspot when I don't have to?

Shining a flashlight's beam on a white wall is how I judge the quality of the beamspot. Just like when I shoot at paper targets to test or zero a rifle.

Where you see the problem with ringy and spotty beamspots is at a distance. Those shadows which may be minor at 10 feet can hide all sorts of things at 75-100 feet.

Britt
 
I have no place in my life for a ringy beam.

Scotch Satin tape is the newest weapon in my arsenal. But I still have Writeright!

The Streamlight Clipmate 3AAA 3LED (or the clone at Wallyworld) are dang fine headlights that make decent handheld lights too.
 
When I reccomend hiking lights to my friends, I tell them to take a UK 4AA eLED and an Infinity Ultra, both filled with lithium AAs.
1. Battery compatability
2. both are some of the toughest lights you can get.
3. both are regulated.
4. Lots of runtime from both, especially with lithiums.
5. you can get the pair, loaded with lithiums, for less than $50. This is the most important thing for people that don't hang out here.
 
I attached a Maglite Solitaire to the main zipper on my pack, then just tucked it in when the zipper was closed to avoid snagging it. "What a great idea" said my hiking partner, when I needed something out of my pack in the dark and I lit it up. What I didn't realize was what a better idea it was to have an Arc AAA instead of a Maglite. If you want 2 lights when backpacking, get a 2nd Arc AAA! Then consider some of the other fine lights mentioned.
 
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BC0311 said:
I think the same way about beamspots. Only smooth and clean ones are desirable to me. Why "make do" with a ringy, mangy, artifact festooned beamspot when I don't have to?

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Actually, given my recent interest in "throw" and beamwidth, I'm much more interested in the outside of the beam than the inside.
 
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I'm slow tonight, I don't understand what you mean, sotto?
 
Well, $50 to a non-CPF'er is an awful lot to spend on flashlights. I'd actually skip the lithiums since those lights are both regulated, unless it's a winter hike. After all, 15 year shelf life isn't an issue unless it's a 15 year hike; low temperature operation isn't an issue in the summer; and the runtime difference isn't an issue unless the hike is so long that you expect to actually need a light for that long.
 
FYI: I have been mighty impressed by CPFer "Waion"'s little Black Sun LED light. For only $15 shipped, it has excellent brightness for its 16 5mm's. The throw isnt as great, but it aint bad by any means. But hey, it has no reflector or optics, so its really good by that. Its a 2*123 so its a good hand light, not too small nor too large. And I prefer the grip of it over most of my lights. Nice and 'bumpy.' The head does get warm, but to me, that just shows that it is heatsinked, for the LEDs are being overdriven I believe. Just a recommendation. Here's a link to where he is selling the Black Sun that also comes with a decent belt pouch... Black Sun and More... And be on the lookout for his homepage with the lights on sale there. Making it easier to keep track of all the lights he is now selling.
Cameron
 
Would it be hijacking to talk about what light(s) I am thinking of carrying on a week-long mountain bike ride alross the mountains from CO to UT.

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I think considerations for the bike trip are similar to for backpacking. Maybe have a little more emphasis on having a handsfree light in case you need to work on the bike in the dark. I presume you're not planning to ride in the dark much--if you are, you probably want a bike light, which is different.

Otherwise I'd say the same prescription: PT Aurora plus PT Rage, if you want battery interoperability. Replace Rage with a UKE 2L if you don't mind using 123's in the 2L.
 
Not _planning_ on riding in the dark. There will be 8 of us on the ride. Weight/space is at a premium though since we'll be carrying all our stuff/food/etc with us. And believe me, you eat a LOT on a 7 day bike ride.

I was thinking of a zipka and a uk 4aaEled. But someone needs to bring some kind of long-burning light for nighttime. I know that we will NOT be having a fire, so it'll be dark.

If each person brings a light that'll run for about 4-8 hours then we will have a light for each night's area lighting. Then all we need is an extra 1 or 2 for trips to the bushes/bike repair/etc.

I am giving some serious though to an eternalight. I does have that nice long runtime, decent output, and SOS mode (hope we WON'T be using that).
 
The UK 2L with the eLED head will save some size/weight over the 4AA. It will cost a little more. Runtime will be about 7-8 hours with 2x123, vs around 18 hours with 4xL91 lithium AA's. I actually wouldn't bring that light at all unless I had a specific use for it in mind. If I just wanted a bright light for when the Aurora or Zipka wasn't enough, I'd go for brightness over runtime, i.e. bring the 2L xenon version, or a Surefire E2e or something like that. You may need the bright light to spot something in the distance but you won't likely need it for 8 hours.

SOS mode seems silly to me. Strobe mode is enough for signalling, if you should need that. PT Aurora supports strobe mode and Zipka+ might support it also (not sure). Aurora and Zipka weigh about the same. The retractable Zipka cord is cute but the space savings aren't that significant. The main benefit is it reduces tangles in your pack, not that big a deal.

I don't think you should need to use flashlights several hours a night. If I were on that trip I'd vote against any sort of area lighting since it would interfere with stargazing. Everyone should have a red LED for walking around in the dark ($1.00 Countycomm with red LED is plenty). Even that's not necessary if there's reasonable moonlight. After it's been dark for a while, you'll find it's easy to go to sleep early after a long day's riding or hiking.
 
The wife and I just returned from a 2-week trip to Superior National Forest in MN (Gunflint Trail). Set up a "base" camp (car camping) with the heavier gear to have a comfortable place to work out of, then spent a few days/nights backpacking around the Cascade River. Didn't do any night hiking though - pretty dangerous thing to do in this type of terrain.

The Dorcy 1AAA worn on a neck lanyard performed impressively well for 95% of my task light needs, and they're very inexpensive. Batteries lasted the entire 2 weeks despite considerable nightly use. The Arc 1AAA would be a higher quality step up from this, though not as inexpensive.

I also used a PT Matrix-I headlamp, very handy for hands-free tasks (like eating) where holding the Dorcy 1AAA in the mouth was not practical. The Matrix-I gets a bad rap I think for being dim compared to many other headlamps, lacking different brightness levels, and maybe for its size/weight-being a 2AA form factor. I like it because of its ruggedness/waterproofness and impressively long run time, especially with lithium AA's. Plenty bright enough for me - and doesn't wreck night adapted vision so easily from reflections at close range the way a brighter light can. Just my opinion.

I also took a bright, long-throw LED light for checking things out when needed (after all, it IS bear country...) but didn't need to use it too much. Still, I felt more comfortable having it just in case.

All of the other suggestions noted here are good choices, it just depends on what you want/need. Wish I could go backing again right now...

Have fun - John
 
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