BadBoy assembly questions

[ZuluWhiskeyFox]

Ok here is the drill. I just received my first BB500 CB in the mail today. I've never done this before. I recently put together 3 of Lambda's Ill Pill kits. (Successfully) I have no formal training in electronics at all. I'm a millwright by trade. I am reasonably handy with a soldering iron. So don't see that as problem. The problem is this. There is no indication what is supposed to be soldered to what. It looks as though the little pins supplied are to soldered into place in pairs. One pair on each side of the emitter board. Solder only on the emitter side of the board. The pins then get soldered into the BB500 board. Solder only on the battery side of the board. How am I doing so far? That last step though has a potential mix up. Anode, Cathode? Which is which? Is the Anode + or - ? I'm guessing that the + on the led is also the + from the battery? I have noticed that one of the pin holes has little bridges out to the main heat sink part of the board. The heat sink part is also the - side of the battery...Yes? Once again, How am I doing so far?

See my dilema. Somebody please help.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif

zwf /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

Just thought of another question. Once I do solder the thing together; Do I fill the gap between the two boards with epoxy or anything. Seems to me that epoxy would make the whole assembly more solid and durable. Maybe should test first to comfirm that it lights up before filling with epoxy.

 

[tvodrd]

You can find it here .

Larry

 

[wasabe64]

Hi zwf,

Yes you do use epoxy to add extra support, since the module will spend most of it's operating life compressed. Most of the readily-available LePage's 5-minute epoxies have a low HDT, so they are not good candidates. Marine epoxy is a good candidate, or JB weld (automotive section of Canadian Tire).

Oh, and yes, test the module every step of the way.

 

[ZuluWhiskeyFox]

Just found this page from a link in another thread.
Bad Boy building instructions
Seems to answer most of my questions. Has some good pics. Well done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


BTW I plan on putting a TVOJ on this sandwich. Should be in the mail any day now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

cheers,
zwf

 

[dat2zip]

I don't have any instructions on the assembly and how I have the Contractors do it requires special fixtures.

One thing to note that I've changed was a suggestion from a fellow CPF'er. He noted the LED legs can shear with the rotational force of the head as your screw it on and off.

The new LED attachment uses the connector pins for attachment and not the bigger hole as shown in KJ web site.

I cut the LED leads at the first bend. I then bend them all down but not flush against the black plastic body.

When putting the LED down on the emitter board, I align the two emitter leads (each side has two) to mate with the two connector pins. I then solder both leads to the two connector pins each side.

Ever since we went to this process we have not had any more reports of the LEDs coming off.

 

[kj]

I know the current sandwiches you are selling are built with this way, but I didn't realize this change was intentional. I'm going to add a note to point to this post and will eventually update my instruction.

 

[ZuluWhiskeyFox]

Dang! I've already clipped off the excess on those leads. So I guess I'll have to put the emitter leads down the holes. If the emitter is epoxied onto the board rather than using heat tranfer compound that should help my plight a little.

zwf

 

[dat2zip]

The original method is actually quite good. Out of 200 or so, maybe, one had a problem. That's a very low percentage. So, either way should be fine. I only posted so that you know what some of the historical issues were.

 

[kj]

If I understand correctly, only the end of the emitter leads need to be modified with the original method, so the portion of the leads, which are used in the new method, should be intact.

Maybe I misunderstand the new method or my description of the original method is confusing...?

 

[ZuluWhiskeyFox]

[ QUOTE ]
dat2zip said:
The original method is actually quite good. Out of 200 or so, maybe, one had a problem. That's a very low percentage. So, either way should be fine. I only posted so that you know what some of the historical issues were.

[/ QUOTE ]

I've done a little thinking about this and it seems to me that if my epoxy were to let go then it wouldn't be long and I'd be replacing the emitter anyway. I suspect the darling little thing would let out all of it's magic smoke. Up until this time I would be unaware that the epoxy had been compromised. So whether or not the leads were still intact is of little consequence.

It's also quite possible that the historical failures that have occurred are on units that had their emitters bonded to the board with a non-hardening heat transfer compound. In which case the torque loads, of the twisting on and off, would have to be carried by the emitter leads. Having said that, not all epoxies are created equal. Some will soften under the heat of the emitter. There by leaving the emitter leads to carry the torque load.
Me thinks that perhaps I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill. I'll be quiet now and just solder the thing together and I know I'm going to be quite happy with it.

cheers,
zwf /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[dat2zip]

KJ,

That is correct. Trimming and forming the leads is different with the new method and the leads are no longer inserted into the single hole provided. They are side soldered to the connector pins if done the way I'm describing it.

zwf,

I concur. You have it correct in the torque failure load since the manufacturing process uses Arctic Alumina grease under the LED. The LED is easy to spin or twist.

Here is a sample picture of how the LED is placed on top of the module with the leads trimmed. Remember, that the connectors are not 180 degrees opposite each other and if you place the LED as shown it will not be centered. You can use the 4 holes around the perimeter to eyeball and center the LED. In the case of this picture, the LED needs to move to the right to center the LED on the emitter board.

The top rightnost lead is unaltered. This is the cathode fat lead with the square hole cut part way off. I bend the other three leads downwards and leave this one alone.

Hope this helps.

Wayne