Beginners Guide to Hotwire Incandescents

[ElectronGuru]

*Please consider this a work in progress until this notice is removed*




Beginners Guide to Hotwire Incandescents​

Contents
Post 01 - This Guide
Post 02 - Recipes and Ratings
Post 18 - Color Temperature Profiles
Post ?? - Photographic Bulb Profiles
Post ?? - Case Study: Mag vs SF
Post ?? - Beam Shots



Introduction
Incans represent the original electric light source, starting with the first electric bulb and the first flashlight (so named in the US because blinking/flashing was employed to extend battery life). Hotwire incans are the greatest expression of this original vision and are to be differentiated from other leading flashlight technologies, particularly HID and LED. For purposes here, hotwire means greater than normal light and heat.



Background
For most of the last decade, hotwire incans have pushed the limits of existing configurations, requiring increasing levels of skill, daring, and money. These requirements limited the appeal and popularity of incan flashlight creation and adoption. But we are seeing innovations that combine to create what I consider to be a new golden age of incans.

Innovation #1 - Simple bi-pin adaptors
Beyond generic bulbs are xenon bulbs. Beyond xenon bulbs are halogen bulbs. Beyond socketed (potted) halogen bulbs are bi-pin halogen bulbs. Designed for scientific instruments, the most popular bi-pins are out of place in most as-is flashlights. But thanks to FiveMega, bi-pins are right at home in two of the most popular host form factors, Mag C (as designated by battery size) and SureFire C (as designated by thread size).

Innovation #2 - Fast discharge batteries
The key to hotwires is voltage, double and triple what was considered normal 10-20 years ago. First there were multi cell adapters, holding multiple standard normal cells in magazines of various configurations (6AA->2D, 9AA->3D, 12AA->4D). Then, lithium ion cells came on the scene, increasing densities for voltage and energy. But such chemistries require expensive and often ill fitting protection circuitry to enable safe use. One of these protections is against over discharge, by limiting current flow, in direct contradiction to the high drain needs of incan bulbs (ie double-press to start).

But thanks to AW, there are now IMR cells (LiMN - Lithium Manganese). Standard battery sizes, standard cost, high energy density, and high discharge rates (what incan bulbs crave most). And they fit right into popular flashlight bodies (hosts), without the need for expensive and troublesome adaptors.



Build

Step 1 - Host
The first step in building this new kind of incan is choosing a host. This can be based on size/runtime requirements or simply by what you have sitting in your parts drawer (or on your mantle). Mag hosts cost less, but don't come equipped with high temperature reflectors or lenses/windows. At this point (more to be added), there are 2 basic host options (small/big) and 2 voltage options (2 cell or 3 cell), but you are really only limited by budget and [FMs] imagination.

Surefire "C" or compatible (small size, low runtime)
2-cell - this can be a stock 6P, C2, Z2, etc (65 lumens @ 6.0v)
3-cell - this can be a stock 9P, C3, Z3, etc (105 lumens @ 9.0v)

2-cell - this can be a stock 9P, C3, Z3, etc with a dummy CR123A
3-cell - this can be a stock 6P, C2, Z2, etc with a cell extender (A19 etc)


Maglite (large size, high runtime)
2-cell - this can be a stock Mag 2C (36.5 lumens @ 3.0v)
3-cell - this can be a stock Mag 3C (76.8 lumens @ 4.5v)
​

Step 2 - Batteries & Chargers
Depending on how step 1 goes...

Stock 6P = 2 AW IMR16340's
Stock 9P = 2 AW IMR17500's (when available)
Stock 9P = 3 AW IMR16340's
Stock Mag2C = 2 AW IMR26500's (see note 4)
Stock Mag3C = 3 AW IMR26500's (see note 4)
Modified Mag2D = 3 AW IMR26500's
Modified Mag2C = 3 AW IMR16340's (thanks Niteowl!)

Available directly and through dealers


C Cell Charger
LITEmania Charger for C/IMR26500

Basic Non C Chargers
Ultrafire WF-138 Charger for RCR123A/IMR16340
Ultrafire WF-139 Charger for 17500/17670/18500/18650
Also available directly and through dealers

Advanced Non C Charger
Pila IBC for RCR123A/IMR16340/17500/17670/18500/18650
​

Step 3 - Bulb Sockets et al

Surefire
FiveMega G4 D26 SUNLIGHT for $urefire (includes high temp MOP reflector)

Maglite
FiveMega G4 bi-pin socket for M*g (lens & reflector extra, see step 5)

Unlike the SF socket, this design currently lacks a retaining screw
Its necessary to gently bend the bulb pins so they stay in the socket
Pins bent in this way will be harder to insert into SF sockets
​

Step 4 - Bulbs
There are two types of incan bulbs, potted and bi-pin. Potted are the standard style that has been popular for a century, drop the half metal module into the socket and screw down the retaining collar. Bi-pins, as their name implies, are almost bare glass with two pins protruding from the bottom. For the purposes of this guide, bi-pin bulbs require one of the adapters from Step 3, potted bulbs (Mag only) do not. This is not a comprehensive list of bulbs, merely those that work best with these hosts & cells.

To little voltage and bulbs produce inefficient yellow light. To much voltage and you destroy the bulb. The ideal is to the overdrive it enough to get brighter/whiter output without pushing it to far. Easy to do with regulation (step 5), but more trial and error without it. See post 2 for tested non-regulated configurations. At 3.7 volts per cell, 2 cell setups are 7.4 volts and 3 cell setups are 11.1 volts. More amps (a) equals more lumens (L) but it also means more heat and less runtime.

Maglite only (bi-pin socket not needed)​

2 cell bulbs - 7.4v (8.4 volts fresh off charger)
Potted Pelican 3853L: 290L @ 7.2v - 1.50a | LuxRating: 360L at 8.0v - 1.60a (see note 7)
Potted Pelican 3853H: 600L @ 7.2v - 3.40a | LuxRating: 928L at 8.4v - 3.70a (see note 7)

Maglite & SureFire​

2 cell bulbs - 7.4v (8.4 volts fresh off charger)
Bi-Pin WA 01274: 553L @ 7.2v - 2.77a | LuxRating: 864L at 8.4v - 3.10a
Bi-Pin WA 01111: 465L @ 6.0v - 3.35a | LuxRating: 874L at 7.4v - 3.80a

3 cell bulbs - 11.1v (12.6 volts fresh off charger)
Bi-Pin WA 01166: 704L @ 11.6 - 1.97a | LuxRating: 870L at 12.6v - 2.06a
Bi-Pin WA 01331: 534L @ 9.6v - 1.93a | LuxRating: 700L at 11.1v - 2.15a
Bi-Pin WA 01185: 817L @ 9.6v - 3.15a | LuxRating: 1401L at 11.2v - 3.40a

[Information courtesy of LuxLuthor and Litho123 (purchase link)]
​

Step 5 - Options & Extras

Mag reflectors (C & D)
Basic
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5633

Advanced
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207494


Mag Lenses (C & D)
http://www.flashlightlens.com/str/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=boro_lens (direct)
http://www.lighthound.com/521mm-Borofloat-Lens-for-Mag-C-amp-D-Size-Flashlights_p_43.html (dealer)


Mag Heatsinks (C only)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=168722



Regulation (advanced voltage and output control)
AW Softstart / 3 level Incan Driver Switch for SureFire 'C'
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=213751

AW Softstart / 3 level Incan Driver Switch for Maglite C
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=185688

AW Softstart / 3 level Incan Driver Switch for Maglite D
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=177316
​

Step 6 - Adjust Focus (optional)
Beam quality/behavior is determined by the relationship between the bulb and the reflector. For example, the larger the reflector, relative to the bulb size, the more control you will have and the more light can be projected (think spot light). The other key factor is the position of the filament (the coil inside the bulb) relative to the bottom of the reflector.

Surefire
For optimum bulb placement in a SF configuration, begin by positioning the filament just above the bottom opening in the reflector, then fine tune from there. This is controlled in the FM socket by unlocking, then turning the brass bulb base inside the aluminum housing. When ready, point it at a wall or ceiling. If there is a dark spot in the center (aka donut), the bulb is probably positioned to high.

Maglite (with cam)
Unlike the SF configuration which is set during assembly, Mags are adjusted during use. If you have a cam (an angle cut tube extending from the bottom of the cone) equipped reflector, loosen/tighten the head of the light in half turns to get the desired focus. If you would like to control the focus starting-point when the head is fully tightened, see my Mag calibration guide.

Maglite (no cam)
If your reflector lacks a cam (or its removed), adjustment is similar to having a cam, just slower and more precise. It can take several full revolutions to equal a half twist with a cam. The configurations shown here work both with and without a cam, so the choice is yours: fast or slow focus.
​

Step 7 - Enjoy! :thumbsup:




Extra Configurations

SureFire: LumensFactory IMR Ready Drop-Ins (more info)

MagCharger: to upgrade a MagCharger, ignore most of this guide and add a Mica shield (when available) and 1160 bulbs from Litho123. 5761 bulbs also work but reliable operation requires replacing the plastic socket with a ceramic socket (also from FM) and enlarged reflector opening.
​

Extra Reading

Bulbs
rikvee's Popular bulbs current draw
LuxLuthor's destructive incan bulb tests
LuxLuthor's most powerful Maglite mods list

Batteries
LuxLuthor's Li-Ion categories
mdocod's rechargeable battery guide
mdocod's Lithium-Ion > incandescent guide & compatability/comparison chart

Chargers
mdocod's tests on the WF-139

Reflectors
mdocod's reflector efficiency discussion
​

Notes

1. These configurations are capable of producing intense amounts of heat. Keep out of reach of children. Do not leave any light unattended while running. Take care when storing your completed lights so they will not activate accidently.
   
2. While utilizing "safe chemistries," IMR cells are capable of releasing enormous energy. Read AWs warning and cautions before use and familiarize yourself with standard handling protocols.
   
3. IMR cells will last longer if they are not deeply discharged. For maximum life, turn off your light as soon as it starts to dim and recharge the batteries as soon as possible.
   
4. IMR 26500 cells are slightly to wide to fit into standard Mag C's. You can either enlarge your Mag's opening (link) or reduce the thickness of your cells (link)
   
5. Get yourself some high purity rubbing alcohol (90+). After a bulb is handled and before it is turned on, wipe it down. This helps prevent poof.
   
6. If you want the ability to swap bulbs in the field with SF configurations, pre-load (and test) two complete FM sockets and have the extra ready. Change out dead bulbs after you get back.
   
7. Standard 6 volt ROP bulbs (model 3854), while happy in most dual Lithium-Ion configurations, cannot handle the higher voltage produced by the IMR26500 cells presented in this guide. For these cells, 7.2 volt ROP bulbs (model 3853) are recommended, available at Battery Station.

:devil:​

 

[ElectronGuru]

Recipes and Ratings

2-Cell Surefire​

Surefire74
Take SF 6P, add FM SunLight Socket, 1274 bulb, and 2 IMR16340's



Surefire11 *Good*
Take SF 6P, add FM SunLight Socket, 1111 bulb, and 2 IMR16340's

Bulb output is proportional to the reflector, with an bright hotspot
Heats up quickly and drains the cells to fast to be useful, runtime:
Color is warm white
Good combination, but it needs bigger cells (like 18mm body/cells)
​

3-Cell Surefire​

Surefire31 *Excellent*
Take SF 9P, add FM SunLight Socket, 1331 bulb, and 3 IMR16340's

Bulb output is proportional to the reflector, with an excellent (if oblong) hotspot
Heat build up is gradual with reasonable battery life, runtime:
Color is warm white
Great combination
​

Surefire85 *Okay*
Take SF 9P, add FM SunLight Socket, 1185 bulb, and 3 IMR16340's

Bulb output is larger than the reflector can handle so the hotspot is weak
Heats up rapidly and drains the cells to fast to be useful, runtime:
Color is neutral white
Okay combination, needs bigger cells and & larger reflector (see Surefire31 & Mag85)
​

Surefire66 *Weak*
Take SF 9P, add FM SunLight Socket, 1166 bulb, and 3 IMR16340's

Bulb is underdriven, so general output is low, including the hotspot
Weak combination, needs more voltage (more cells, bigger cells, etc) (see Mag66)
​

2-Cell Maglite​

MagROP-High *Excellent*
Take Mag 2C, add 7.2v ROP-H bulb, 2 IMR26500's, MOP reflector, and lens (see note 7)

Bulb output is proportional to the reflector, with a broad hotspot
Heat build up is gradual with reasonable battery life, runtime:
Color is warm white
Great combination, indoor night use is best with sunglasses
​

MagROP-Low *Good*
Take Mag 2C, add 7.2v ROP-L bulb, 2 IMR26500's, MOP reflector, and lens (see note 7)

Bulb output is proportional to the reflector, with a round hotspot
Heat build up is gradual with excellent battery life, runtime:
Color is warm white
Good combination, however output is less than other configurations
​

Mag74
Take Mag 2C, add FM G4 Socket, 1274 bulb, 2 IMR26500's, MOP reflector, and lens



Mag11
Take Mag 2C, add FM G4 Socket, 1111 bulb, 2 IMR26500's, MOP reflector, and lens

Fresh off the charger, these batteries blow this bulb (0.1 volts over limit)
Poof City, consider smaller cells, regulation or resting your cells before use
​

3-Cell Maglite​

Mag85 *Excellent*

Caution: let your cells rest overnight before use to minimize poof
Bulb output is proportional to the reflector, with an excellent hotspot
Heat build up is rapid with good battery life, runtime:
Color is warm white
Great combination
​

Mag66 *Good*
Take Mag 3C, add FM G4 Socket, 1166 bulb, 3 IMR26500's, MOP reflector, and lens

Bulb output is proportional to the reflector, with an excellent hotspot
Heat build up is gradual with excellent battery life, runtime:
Color is warm white
Good combination
​

Mag31
Take Mag 3C, add FM G4 Socket, 1331 bulb, 3 IMR26500's, MOP reflector, and lens

Fresh off the charger, these batteries blow this bulb (0.6 volts over limit)
Poof City, consider smaller cells, regulation or resting your cells before use
​

:devil:​

 

[JJV]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

Awesome thread!!! I had no idea 5M was doing the Surefire adapters. Gotta get one.

Thanks!

 

[Seiko]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

Great post!

 

[rockz4532]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

My ROP is a 2D with homebrew Li-ion adapter, with 2x AW protected 17670's and low bulb. I'll see how it works when I get the bulb tomorrow.

 

[Guy's Dropper]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

Would this thread be considered "Sticky" material?

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

Great post!!

Thanks a lot.

ElectronGuru,

You should put this in your guide: the new Charger for 'C' Li-ion batteries or 26500 IMR cells -->> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=160022

Cheers

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

My ROP is a 2D with homebrew Li-ion adapter, with 2x AW protected 17670's and low bulb. I'll see how it works when I get the bulb tomorrow.

2x18650 IMRs would be a lot better....

 

[ElectronGuru]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

You should put this in your guide: the new Charger for 'C' Li-ion batteries or 26500 IMR cells

Good point OF, charger section added!

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

Good point OF, charger section added!

Another great charger --and safer for regular li-ion cells-- than the Ultrafires is the very reliable Pila IBC charger. Available here: http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/bach.html


Another observation,

3-Cell SureFire users can also choose to run 2x17500 IMRs and use the same lamps as in the "2-Cell" options to get longer runtimes.


Thanks for the update.
Cheers

 

[ElectronGuru]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

Thanks for the notes OF. I'm going order a few more parts from this fancy guide, then take out the camera and start filling in the examples.

Might even get crazy and try my hand at beam shots.

 

[R@ndom]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

Dude it goes like this generic(argon/vacuum)<halogen<krypton<xenon in order of reverse efficency not generic<xenon<halogen.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

I have not commented on PM's or thread because once you really get into incans, there are so many options, developments, customizations that it seems too hard to cover them all.

For example, in bulbs there have been revolutionary developments in addition to bipins of filament shape, orientation, size, material, glass material, thickness, optical and thermal properties, infrared reflective coating (i.e. Osram "IRC" bulbs), Osram's Ministar with reflector coating built into the bulb. Then there are wide varieties of bulb wattages, longer life ratings, ability to be overdriven, bulb lumen ratings, heat issues, etc. The destructive testing link in my sig gives a good idea of bulb performance, but not overdriving life.

Reflectors have a similar wide variety of shapes, focal lenghts, diameters, bore sizes, surface coatings, durability, etc.

Switches come in many styles, functions, sizes, location on side, tail, and/or twisting body. They have various amp/resistance ratings. Then the biggest revolution is switches that are soft starting (AW which you mentioned), regulating voltage switches (AWR, AlanB/JimmyM), multi-level, programmable functions like low voltage battery protection shutoff.

Batteries are a whole other topic with primary & secondary options that include various NiMH and Lithium Ion cells (which I tried to categorize here). Chargers are another large topic....

So like I started, there is so much information to cover, I was overwhelmed by trying to contribute all I have learned into a single thread.

 

[ElectronGuru]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

Dude it goes like this generic(argon/vacuum)<halogen<krypton<xenon in order of reverse efficency not generic<xenon<halogen.

I was going more for "advanced" (able to output) than "efficient," making the assumption that less powerful bulbs are less advanced. Would you say that krypton, for example, is more advanced than halogen?

there is so much information to cover, I was overwhelmed by trying to contribute all I have learned into a single thread.

Thanks Lux and no worries. Its through efforts like yours that those of us who are new (or newer) get up to speed, enjoying this passion to its fullest.

 

[ANDREAS FERRARI]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

Great start ElectronGuru! You may want to add the Magcharger to this list.Already comes with a bi-pin switch and aluminum reflector and by simply installing a Phillips 5761 bulb(or other 6v bulb) you get a 700lm. monster that will out throw 99% of the lights out there.

 

[R@ndom]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

My bad halogen bulbs is actually plain krypton, xenon etc with a halogen added therefore it is more advanced and efficent. But I do remember reading a few threads from 2001 that davidw and all the old people was talking about how xenon bulbs just became available. Mayby thats how I got confused.

 

[ElectronGuru]

Re: A beginners guide to plug-n-play hotwire incans

You may want to add the Magcharger to this list.

Extra Config section added. Thanks!

 

[ElectronGuru]

Color Temperature Profiles​

Closer to gray is better, click here for more info...

:devil:​

 

[LIGHTSMAD]

if you could add WA1160 possibilities......which is a super bright setup!

 

[My3kidsfather]

ElectronGuru-

Just wanted to say thanks for putting your experiences down for us newbies to incans. Things are way crazier here in incans than in the led world. I'll be trying things out for years to figure it all out.. Thanks again.