Capturing Beamshots: Manual and Auto Exposure

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nekomane

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Here is an attempt at explaning the difference with Manual exposure and Auto exposure when capturing beamshots.

All individual pics were shot with a Canon G7 at ASA100, WB Daylight. Lights and camera were placed at the same distance (perhaps an inch or so off). What varies is the exposure setting.

When in the auto exposure modes, the camera tries to get a consistent exposure regardless of the amount of light bounced back from the subject.

58109290.jpg

On the left column, the exposure is set to Manual and have been taken at the same exposure of f5.6 shutter speed 1/8 seconds. The images show how the overall brightness differs.

On the right column, the exposure is set to f5.6 in Aperture Auto (the A mode). This set the same aperture at f5.6, same as in M mode, but the camera decided the shutter speed.
This resulted in (from top) 1/2.5 seconds for the Surefire U2, 1/1 second for the Nitecore SR3, and 1/15 seconds for the Jetbeam RRT-2.

Here is another comparison shot in Program (the P mode).
P mode leaves the combination of aperture and shutter speed up to the camera.

programc.jpg


Notes:
-The reason the results differ from what can be expected in theory is because the profile of the beam of each light differs. Some have an intense hotspot, while others have a more even pattern which throws off the camera's metering, usually set to measure heavily on the centre of the frame.

-Even when set at Manual exposure, a pic will only show how a beam is captured in a digital image, but not necessarily the same way it looks to the eye. The human eye has the amazing ability to adapt and adjust (similar to the auto modes on cameras, or what you can see in a cats' eyes).

Another way to get a more realistic beamshot may be to use different exposures and take multiple images, and then morphing them into a single image to replicate what one can see with their eyes. HDR imaging which some of our friends have been experimenting with.
HDR imaging and BEAMSHOTS ?
This too can be subjective as one's eye may not perceive what others will.

Pictures may be worth a thousand words, but seeing is believing. Go buy the light and see for yourself ;)
 
Last edited:
The following may explain better.
To eliminate the varying beam profiles from different lights, the same light (Surefire U2) was used.
The light has 6 levels of brightness.

Each brightness setting was recorded in Manual mode (top) where the exposure is set, and Aperture Auto mode (bottom) where the shutter speed automatically adjusts depending on the brightness.
The pictures were put side by side for easier viewing.

beamm.jpg


beama.jpg
 
Here is another demonstration of the power of auto mode (or is that the pitfalls?).

Here are two shots using my Fenix P3D in auto mode (P), no camera settings changed. One of these was taken in low and the other on turbo. With the Q3 5A emitter I heve installed low should be about 10 lumens and high around 180 lumens.

is this 180 or 10?
IMG_2719.jpg


And this one?
IMG_2720.jpg
 
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