Car won't start

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Flint&Steel

Newly Enlightened
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Feb 5, 2010
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The Land of Beautiful Women, Fast Horses, and Smoo
Hello CPFers,

First off, please forgive my ignorance when it comes to cars and their vocabulary. Just something that has never interested me beyond changing my own oil. That is, until now.

Today I went out to run some errands, and my car wouldn't start. The motor turns, and seems ready to fire, but it doesn't. Radio, interior lights, etc., all come on and work (replaced the battery only four months ago).

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what I can check before arranging for a tow and spending $$$$? If there are some fixes that I can do, I'd like to try them first. The little bit of info I've gained from talking with friends is that there may be moisture in the distributor cap (we've received about six inches of rain the past week), and/or the spark plugs/wires might need replaced.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,

F&S
 
what kind of car is it, and do you get a CEL? If you insert the key and keep it in the ON position for several seconds, does the Check Engine Light stay on. If so and it has an OBDII port, stop by a local auto store that gives free readings and printouts of what CEL you're tripping, then research that issue and go from there. Some cars give you the codes if you read the manual it'll tell you how to pull them right from the dash. Checking spark and fuel is systematic, but CEL, that's first.
 
It's a Sentra with 136,000 miles (please don't laugh, this car has been golden), and the CEL has been on continuously since 34,000 miles. I had the CEL checked out when it first came on and the dealer wasn't concerned then. The only thing I've ever replaced (other than routine maintenance) has been a "mass airflow meter" at about 60,000 miles, and I had that replaced when I couldn't go faster than 10 MPH.
 
Flint&Steel said:
and the CEL has been on continuously since 34,000 miles. I had the CEL checked out when it first came on and the dealer wasn't concerned then.
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I'd be going to your dealer and demanding that they fix the issue. A CEL is no trivial matter. If they've been ignoring it, then they should be responsible for whatever has gone wrong.
 
don't you have inspection/emissions wher you live, lol, time to get that CEL looked at I'd suggest.. you may have more than one issue now throwing codes, tho there's only one CEL light on your dash.
 
Flint&Steel said:
...The motor turns, and seems ready to fire, but it doesn't. Radio, interior lights, etc., all come on and work (replaced the battery only four months ago)...
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The first thing to check in this situation is the fuel level. :duck:
 
This was a common problem with the mid 90's mitsubishi's /Colt's/eagle summit with the 1.6/1.8/2.0 motors if your distributor has only four wires on the cap and the cap has the coil tower bump on the side of the cap I'll bet your on the mark with the cap being damp and/or bad wires. Started alot of them with WD-40 because the water seal on the cap is crappy and the cap isn't vented so moisture builds up.

remove the cap and spray is down with WD-40 let it dry a few mins replace it and see what happens when you crank it you may have to keep the pedal down a little to get it running till it clears
 
I had similar problem intermitantly for over a year. Had to have my truck towed home several times. Finally figured out it was the crankshaft sensor. $40 and 10 mins to replace it and 4 years later no problems.

Before I discovered the problem, i changed the distributor cap/rotor and the spark plugs and wires and it didnt fix the problem.
 
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Flint&Steel said:
(replaced the battery only four months ago).
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A new battery isn't any grantee the battery isn't bad, I replaced an expensive sealed battery earlier this year, just a few months old. The window in the top of the battery was green, supposedly showing fully charged. Replaced under warranty fortunately.
Norm
 
because you had rain , spray distributrer cap (if you have one) and spark plug wires with wd40.
battery is fine if it spins the motor 'normally'.
you can get codes that will cost hundreds to fix but dont need fixing, and you can get codes that are telling you 'im not gunna start till you fix me' .
has the immobilser chip fallen out of the key ?(if it has one).

cheers and good luck.
 
JB5 said:
I had similar problem intermitantly for over a year. Had to have my truck towed home several times. Finally figured out it was the crankshaft sensor. $40 and 10 mins to replace it and 4 years later no problems.

Before I discovered the problem, i changed the distributor cap/rotor and the spark plugs and wires and it didnt fix the problem.
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+1 on the crankshaft sensor. My truck would crank longer than normal every once in a while until one day it wouldn't start at all. After making plans to trailer it home, a mechanic friend of mine tapped the sensor with a wrench and it started. Long story short, I replaced the sensor (with a cheap replacement) and even still once in a blue moon, my truck won't start unless I unplug and replug in the senor. I believe its a connection issue with the terminals, just too lazy to fix it at the moment. Most auto parts stores have code readers. That would be the best way to find out what is wrong instead of throwing money at things.
 
Internal combustions engines require fuel, spark, and compression to run. Because of the rain I'd suggest you dry the distributor and cap and replace the spark plug wires. When you get it running you should take it to the dealer for a fuel pressure check and compression check. Rainy weather can cause moisture to build up inside the distributor cap and/or to seep into tiny cracks in the wires. Then.... the dealer needs to pull OBD codes and *fix* the check engine light. In most states cars with illuminated check engine lights will not pass smog inspection.
 
Well, Friday it started, died at a stoplight, started right up, and then hiccuped while driving. I took it to a repair shop, where they couldn't find anything wrong with the codes. Drove it around some more, and then it completely shut down. Sprayed some starter fluid in it, and it tried so hard to turn over, but it wouldn't. I had it towed to a shop and will find out the verdict on Monday.

Thanks for everyone's help/suggestions!
 
Sounds like it could be an oxygen sensor. I had the same problem with a car in that it would die, and sometimes I would have to wait to start it up and then it would run sluggish and stutter.
 
Nitroz said:
Sounds like it could be an oxygen sensor. I had the same problem with a car in that it would die, and sometimes I would have to wait to start it up and then it would run sluggish and stutter.
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Any signal from oxygen sensor during start up is ignored by computer.
 
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