PeLu
Flashlight Enthusiast
OK, next try to post the mesage
Ok, I wrote a lengthy comment and hit a key which deleted everything accidently .-(
Anyway (short as I have no time now):
I wrote probably hundreds of pages on cave lighting (in different languages).
Some of the points mentioned in this paper are not as silly as they look at the first glance, but I agree that it is somewhat outdated.
When you use incandescents with a regulated source (like Ocelot's Willie Hunt LVR) they came close to LEDs.
And LEDs were overrated for a long time.
And, as mentioned before, LEDs have the possibility of using them at lower levels efficiently.
The author also compares electric lights only with carbide caplamps, not with the CB (ceiling burner) type which is quite common around here.
These CBs light up the whole surrounding of the wearer and therefore everybody illuminates for everybody. You get a much better impression of the cave passages and rooms and the person who makes the scetching has much better results.
On the other hand, more or less focused lights (mostly electric) are what I call egoistic. They just throw a cone of light in the direction the wearer is looking (more or less). You get a completely different view of the same cave. Difference in between this light categories is less in smaller passages, of course. And vice versa.
A CB can put out easily 500lm and in our case carbide is easily obtainable and more or less free. And a well maintained lamp works quite well, but never as easy as an electric one (with exceptions).
I now use a Melzer Radon which tries to copy the CB effect with an LED. It is quite nice and comes close, but not perfect (in that way). It lights up half the angle of a free flame.
some 6 years ago I wanted to buy a NevTec lamp as it came close to a carbide light's unfocused beam.
At least as good were DougS' caving lights.
I also prefer to have a seperate spot to look down pitches (most of our pitches are less that 1200 ft deep .-)
Light colour: It depends higly on what you look at. Ice (quite common around here) lights up well with white LEDs. Brownish rock (like quite common in TAG and Indiana/Kentucky) better with carbide lights. Our cave walls are usually almost white and work well with all kinds of lights. I had cases were people with carbide or incadescent lights could spot red survey marks much easier that I could with a LED light. On the other hand I found a rusty spanner with my quite dim LED light (back in 1999) where carbide cavers looked around without success. Both light colours have benfits and shortcomings. Mineral collectors prefer the white LEDs.
As I wrote yesterday, I would like to try a StenLite with one white and one amber or orange LED. Both with the widest beam available.
Fluorescent lights: Smaller tubes have lower efficiency, you need a converter which is usually a little bit less efficent as one used for LEDs. Fluorescent drop in efficiency at lower temps, LEDs increase. Caves are usually relatively cold (around 0-5°C here).
And tubes are fragiile compared with small incandescents and LEDs.
If the author of this pamphlet states that he and others missed a passage due to their lightig it says more about their caving skills than about the lights .-)
Alpine caves tend to be more confusing than most of the US ones (as the bedding planes are never horizontal) and I cannot remember ever missing a junction due to bad light (but I may have forgotten it). I used to cave with a 3.7V 0.07 A bulb and a square battery (some 50 hours of light). This was a backup, of course, but got used sometimes for a longer time.
much more to write about...
SilverFox said:I ran across this discussion...Comments?
Ok, I wrote a lengthy comment and hit a key which deleted everything accidently .-(
Anyway (short as I have no time now):
I wrote probably hundreds of pages on cave lighting (in different languages).
Some of the points mentioned in this paper are not as silly as they look at the first glance, but I agree that it is somewhat outdated.
When you use incandescents with a regulated source (like Ocelot's Willie Hunt LVR) they came close to LEDs.
And LEDs were overrated for a long time.
And, as mentioned before, LEDs have the possibility of using them at lower levels efficiently.
The author also compares electric lights only with carbide caplamps, not with the CB (ceiling burner) type which is quite common around here.
These CBs light up the whole surrounding of the wearer and therefore everybody illuminates for everybody. You get a much better impression of the cave passages and rooms and the person who makes the scetching has much better results.
On the other hand, more or less focused lights (mostly electric) are what I call egoistic. They just throw a cone of light in the direction the wearer is looking (more or less). You get a completely different view of the same cave. Difference in between this light categories is less in smaller passages, of course. And vice versa.
A CB can put out easily 500lm and in our case carbide is easily obtainable and more or less free. And a well maintained lamp works quite well, but never as easy as an electric one (with exceptions).
I now use a Melzer Radon which tries to copy the CB effect with an LED. It is quite nice and comes close, but not perfect (in that way). It lights up half the angle of a free flame.
some 6 years ago I wanted to buy a NevTec lamp as it came close to a carbide light's unfocused beam.
At least as good were DougS' caving lights.
I also prefer to have a seperate spot to look down pitches (most of our pitches are less that 1200 ft deep .-)
Light colour: It depends higly on what you look at. Ice (quite common around here) lights up well with white LEDs. Brownish rock (like quite common in TAG and Indiana/Kentucky) better with carbide lights. Our cave walls are usually almost white and work well with all kinds of lights. I had cases were people with carbide or incadescent lights could spot red survey marks much easier that I could with a LED light. On the other hand I found a rusty spanner with my quite dim LED light (back in 1999) where carbide cavers looked around without success. Both light colours have benfits and shortcomings. Mineral collectors prefer the white LEDs.
As I wrote yesterday, I would like to try a StenLite with one white and one amber or orange LED. Both with the widest beam available.
Fluorescent lights: Smaller tubes have lower efficiency, you need a converter which is usually a little bit less efficent as one used for LEDs. Fluorescent drop in efficiency at lower temps, LEDs increase. Caves are usually relatively cold (around 0-5°C here).
And tubes are fragiile compared with small incandescents and LEDs.
If the author of this pamphlet states that he and others missed a passage due to their lightig it says more about their caving skills than about the lights .-)
Alpine caves tend to be more confusing than most of the US ones (as the bedding planes are never horizontal) and I cannot remember ever missing a junction due to bad light (but I may have forgotten it). I used to cave with a 3.7V 0.07 A bulb and a square battery (some 50 hours of light). This was a backup, of course, but got used sometimes for a longer time.
much more to write about...
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