Cheap Hacks!

[Andrewr05]

A fan would be better in the tailcap blowing through the tube towards the head.

Probably, but with such a configuration you have to limit your cell diameter therefore limiting your runtime.

I'm assuming that C/D size cells even in the rechargeable li-on (etc.) area offer better runtime than smaller cells...

 

[Tony Hanna]

Back to the Eveready mod from the first post, does anybody have a suggestion for a reasonably bright DX/KD p60 style LED drop-in that wouldn't overheat from the lack of heatsinking in a plastic host? I'm thinking about opening mine up to take a single 18650 with a spacer if I can find a drop-in that runs cool enough for extended use.:)

 

[Chodes]

Back to the Eveready mod from the first post, does anybody have a suggestion for a reasonably bright DX/KD p60 style LED drop-in that wouldn't overheat from the lack of heatsinking in a plastic host? I'm thinking about opening mine up to take a single 18650 with a spacer if I can find a drop-in that runs cool enough for extended use.:)

I would not think so. The main weakness of those dropins (nearly all the products "those" shops sell) is lack of heat management.

I think any "reasonably bright" P60 dropin needs a good thermal path to a metal body to have a chance of working reliably.
Why not just get one of their cheap metal bodies?

 

[Chodes]

I think the cheapest realistic hack is a P7 Mag.
Just spend the money on a LED and 1 decent cell. Hack a heatsink or pay for that too.
Used Mag bodies can be found for next to nothing.
Hacksaw the body , glue it into the head - hacked 1D. Hack a tailcap switch.
Direct drive with stock mag reflector and $1 glass lens.

Not quite in the $10 category - more like $50 but easy to make it very reliable with still impressive output.

Cheap hacks are better limited to lower power novelties IMHO.
Like this:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=236653

 

[Tony Hanna]

I would not think so. The main weakness of those dropins (nearly all the products "those" shops sell) is lack of heat management.

I think any "reasonably bright" P60 dropin needs a good thermal path to a metal body to have a chance of working reliably.
Why not just get one of their cheap metal bodies?

I have an L2. I was just wanting to try something different with the Eveready for the fun of it and to try to make it a little more useful. Since I got the L2 the Eveready has been sitting unused and I keep looking at it wondering if there's something I could do to keep the output close to the same without worrying about it melting down from an extended run.