Chuckable collet holder?

[Chop]

Hey guys,

I haven't been able to take the jump into a "real" lathe and am still working on a Homier mini lathe. My big problem with it is that I can't use a 1" collet with it.

I recently installed a 5" chuck on it and was just wondering if there is such a thing as a collet holder that I could chuck to be able to use 1" or larger collets?

Thanks,

 

[gadget_lover]

I've been wondering the same thing.

Daniel

 

[PEU]

did you asked Chris at LittleMachineShop.com?


Pablo

 

[tvodrd]

5C collet-holding blocks can be had from Enco/Rutland/Travers/McMaster. They usually come in a set which includes a square and hex block with a lever lock and simple ring lock with wrench. I can take a pic tonight.

Larry

 

[Chop]

Oh man, the hex block sounds like me. I'll check at Enco.

Thanks Larry.

 

[cy]

here is my setup. unfortunately it's a crack big for my 9" southbend lathe. found all sorts of other uses!

 

[gadget_lover]

So, Cy, tell us about some of the other uses?

I assume the hex fits into jaws of the chuck, but what does the round piece with the knob do?

Daniel

 

[Chop]

I'm going to guess that the knobby thing is what closes the collet. I would imagine that a small draw bar could be made to replace the knobby thing so that you can chuck it in a lathe. Or maybe you could whack off the knob and drill and tap the rod to make a removeable handle.

 

[cy]

[ QUOTE ]
gadget_lover said:
So, Cy, tell us about some of the other uses? I assume the hex fits into jaws of the chuck, but what does the round piece with the knob do? Daniel

[/ QUOTE ]

With these two collet holders and all the 5C collet options. I'm able to securely hold on to any small round tube.

Wrap masking tape on the HA part and risk of damage is minimal.

I've been meaning to post a tutorial on how to service ARC LS first runs without damage.

You can place a tremendous grip on HA aluminum without damage. In cases like ARC first run bezels locktited solid. using a collet is the only possible way to remove w/o damage.

I also use these collets to hold on to ARC LSH while removing the internal locking ring. another use is to hold on to ARC AAA head while threading to new custom size.

Cost is the only drawback. Each collet holder is $55, then you need to all cost of 5C collets. They are made 1/64 increments. I use metric sizes for inbetween sizing.

I've got aprox. $250 in my collet setup.

 

[McGizmo]

I have the square and hex collet holders as well and use them on my drill/ mill all the time. If you come up with a way to clamp them to your cross slide, you can use the lathe for some simple milling. I have done that as well.

 

[tvodrd]

The hex one here at work is ~1 3/4 across the flats. cy only shows the lever closer, which works by drawing the collet into the internal taper of the block. It is quick acting and very useful in the mill. For use in the lathe in a 3 or 4 jaw, they are also supplied with a nut and wrench, and the nut draws the collet into the taper to close it, and nothing protrudes outside the profile of the block.

Larry

 

[cy]

Thanks Larry for the tip on how to use the collet holder ring. now it fits fine in my lathe.

Larry = the man /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif

 

[tvodrd]

Thanks cy,

Btw, 5C collets are available in 1/64" (.0156") diametric increment steps. They are also available in standard square and hex sizes. "Emergency collets" can be had in nylon, brass, and soft steel, and in the case of the steel ones, with head diameters up to 6". They come with pins you clamp down on while you machine the inside to the diameter or shape you want. You then remove the pins for it to clamp your parts. You can even thread them for holding threaded parts. (Can't say I'm too enthusiastic about swapping threaded parts in and out without stopping the spindle like I can for small round ones. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif )

They also make 5C "expanding" collets for holding work from the inside. These don't come for standard sizes, rather you turn them down to the size you need. For production or even toolroom work on odd parts you can't hold on the outside, they are hard to beat.

Some other very handy 5C goodies are the "spindex" which allows you to rotate the collet and workpiece in defined angular increments- think accurately-located tritium vial slots, and the one built into a 90deg angle block. It allows you to mount it with the collet vertical or horizontal while clamping to a mill or grinder table. On the good ones, the collet doesn't move up and down as you open/close it. I recently bought a cheapie for work but it is a POS.

Individual collets range from ~$10 for a cheap import to ~$70? for a 6" "pot chuck." I think I've blown about $1500 on 5C stuff setting up my home shop in the last couple months. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Larry

 

[Chop]

Guys,

Thanks for the great responses. I need to be able to accommodate a collet to hold 1" diameter pieces. Which one should I get? Could someone post a link. I just want to make sure that I get the right thing.

If I can get this going, my cheapie import mini lathe will rise to a new level of utility.

 

[tvodrd]

Chop,

Chop, If your 3-jaw/4-jaw will accomodate 1.8"dia, you could hold a hex/square, 5C collet block. Most 1" 5C collets will accept a 1" dia workpiece completely through them. (There are some that won't, like the one with the set I bought. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif ) The minilathes may have a problem chucking something as large as a collet block, and the ID of your chuck may still be an issue, depending on how long a piece of 1" stock you want to grab. I'll look for links tomorrow, but I *suspect* you maybe SOL with the minilathe.

Larry

 

[wasabe64]

A 4" chuck can only go up to 1.25" with the straight jaws. The wide-diameter step jaws can hold the 1.8" block, but the grip would not be as solid, which could translate into unwanted deflection.

You could get a 5-6" chuck...

 

[Chop]

Hey guys,

I have a 5" chuck on my Homier mini lathe. Wahoo!! I actually parted a 1.75" diameter piece of stock today. It's nice to be able to do some real work on this tiny machine. I think my maximum is 2" using the inside jaws.

If any of you guys have a mini lathe, I would highly recommend the 5" chuck. It easily clears the bedway. In fact the only way the jaws hit is if you loosen them up to the point of falling out. If any are interested, I got it a the little machine shop.

Which make of 1" collet is it that will accept a 1" piece of stock?

BTW, thanks you guys.

 

[tvodrd]

Chop,

I checked http://www.travers.com and you can find the hex block cat# 69-001-008, $29.10 p633, and 3 flavor$ of 1" collet, starting with cat# 69-500-064, $5.99 p537. Enter the cat#'s in the search box and then click catalog page. As to my $20-class, 1" it will require opening the internal threads a little if I need to poke a 1" something more than 2.7" deep into it. They usually come internally-threaded so you can use an internal, adjustable depth stop. Depth stops are a must for production work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

You will find similar offerings from Enco and Rutland and McMaster. McMaster sells Japanese-made 5C's which is where I got my full set. I suspect they're good ones, probably on par with Royal.

Larry

 

[McGizmo]

I picked up a "lot" of some hardinge collets on E-Bay for a good price. There were a bunch of internal collets as well. I must have a dozen brass emergency collets that I use for the various flashlight parts. I made my own brass 1" and bored it all the way through so it can digest "rough" 1" bar stock. Like Larry said, some of them with the internal threads are not happy taking 1" all the way through.

 

[Chop]

Thanks guys, I'm going to have to follow up on that. The problem is that I bought a freakin' drill press today and blew my wad so it's gonna have to wait. Maybe a couple of days.

Thanks again guys,