Cleaning tips for blades

[madwomble]

I recently bought myself a Spyderco UK legal pen knife, alongside a uk Leatherman too (both legal carrying as no lock blades). This was to replace my lost, and much used, Gerber Suspension (So much use for so little money, really miss it!) and a Mauser folding knife (not original I think as it looked slightly different from the pics I found on Google).

Anyway, this is my first new knife in a long time and I'm just curious about how to keep the blade clean. There is currently some residue on the Spyderco blade. I can just clean the blade off with a damp cloth, but is there an advantage to using a lightly oiled rag to leave a waterproof sheen on the blade and help protect it? If so, is there a recommended oil to use and\or type of cloth?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Minibear453]

It is not necessary to clean it, especially since the UK is a stainless steel. I believe S30V? I can't remember exactly. Anyways, just wiping the blade down and keeping it clean has done the trick for all of my knives, although if you want a better coating, Tuff cloth provides a corrosion resistant coating for the knives. I think it comes in oil for as well, but you will need to make sure it's food safe if you're going to be cutting anything you eat. I think it's unnecessary, unless you live in an extremely humid environment, or you're using a carbon steel.

 

[madwomble]

Cheers for tips! The knife doesn't say what steel type it is, but good to know just wiping it down is sufficient. I hadn't even considered the food safety angle; certainly worth remembering that. I'll just stick with the 'keep it clean' mantra I think.

Cheers again

 

[tx101]

If your not going to use the knife for food preparation use a light machine oil like 3 in 1
I did have an original UKPK which was S30V which developed light surface rust thru neglect
My current UKPK, Wharnie blade and G10 scales is VG10 seems to be holding up well, been EDCing for the pass year.
Been using a Tuff Cloth as well.

My tip ... dont let the blade get too dull. Maintain the edge with regular stropping

 

[AnAppleSnail]

"Stainless" doesn't mean unstainable. It means, "Stains less." You can stain a 'stainless' steel sink by keeping wet paste on it for a week or two. The same can happen to knife blades that are kept covered in stuff. For longest service, wipe it clean, and use an appropriate oil when it's convenient. Large quantities of mud, sauce, putty, etc can become a problem.

 

[RobME]

Whatever works. I like Benchmade Blue Lube Cleanser. Google it.

 

[Dry-cell]

Regarding lubrication, I have two applicators of Nano-Oil, 10 weight; it's expensive stuff that I use for my flashlights but you only need to use a few drops here and there. It would be good for my knife, but I kinda want something that costs less and can be picked up at my local Canadian Tire. Has anyone tried Honey Goo Lubricant?; since it's a waxy lubricant, does it gunk up parts?.

I have a Buck Vantage Select, Small. When cleaning the blade and handle, is Isopropyl alcohol safe to use on a glass reinforced nylon?.

 

[8steve88]

I use Sentry Solutions TuffGlide, basically the same as in a TuffCloth but in liquid, it cleans very well and is an excellent lubricant. I dries leaving a very thin coating, so thin it's invisible. It only takes a drop or two to lube and clean an Enlan EL-01 one for each side bearing and one on a cloth for the blade. It has a "distinctive" smell, I don't think it's food safe though.
On the bearing surface where the backlock sits in the blade tang I use Sentry's HiSlip grease, same with slipjoints where the backspring contacts the blade but any decent grease will do - I prefer the black Molybdenum Disulphide type but they all work on a knife..
Protecting a knife long term for storage and for everyday really I use Renaissance Wax, amazing product, well worth the money and you will not get any rust. It polishes to a good shine as well, again not food safe but you're not going to be eating it with a spoon. I use whatever is my EDC at the time to cut food and don't notice any taint to the food.
Any light household oil does the job if you can't get anything else.

I've not tried Isopropyl Alcohol on Buck's GRN it's a damn good solvent so it's a bit of a risk. I do use it to clean stuff like tree sap off blades but I have mostly linerlocks with G10 scales and it doesn't hurt them.
You could use it at the start of cleaning to get sticky stuff off then quickly rinse in hot soapy water and let it dry completely before lubricating and protecting, that way it wouldn't be in contact with the GRN for long enough to do any harm.

 

[Dry-cell]

I'm thinking I may just stick with Nano-oil, 10 weight, it should be good for all metal areas of the knife, correct?. If I'm storing the blade for some time I'll make sure to get some wax metal polish for it, it get's quite humid in the summer where I live and I'm not far from water.

As far as polishing goes, should I use some WD-40 on the blade, then wipe it all off and apply some nano oil after?, or is it unnecessary to use WD-40?.

I don't use the knife for cutting food, so it's not a concern of mine.

I was gonna ask if isopropyl alcohol is safe to use on a G-10 laminate handles for cleaning, because I had ordered myself a Spyderco Persistence the other day.

For sharpening I have a Lansky - 4 Rod Diamond Turn Box.

I have the information about knife maintenance printed out from the Buck and SOG Knives websites and have been watching various videos on YouTube about it also. When it comes to knives, I'm very much in the process of learning about them. I bought myself the Buck Vantage Select (Small) so I can learn about maintaining a knife without to much worry.

Edit: I should also be oiling the liner lock at the tip where the lock meets the tang end, correct?. Anywhere, where there's metal on metal contact and moving parts.

 

[subwoofer]

For me the following has worked for the last 30 years of knife collecting and using:

Any food residue of other 'biological' contaminate is washed off using fairy liquid and the sponge side of a normal washing up sponge (never the scourer side). Rinse under the hot tap and dry thoroughly with kitchen paper towel.

Then (and also used for general care and removing finger prints and dust) I use a silicon 'gun and reel' cloth to wipe the blade and leave a very light coating of silicon oil. I've used Napier or Abbey cloths and find the Napier ones last a bit longer before becoming fluffy.

The use of the silicon cloth has been the easiest, least messy and best method for cleaning and protecting all my knives and guns. I use them to remove finger prints every time I use a knife or gun and have never had any issues. Using this method I have also never had any issues storing knives in leather sheaths or with the notoriously corrosion inducing bead blasted finish of the Gerber BMF when stored in its original sheath.

 

[Dry-cell]

Thanks for the info guys, unfortunately none of these items mentioned here are available at Canadian Tire. There's similar products that do the same thing, but are made by another company. I could order some stuff through Amazon.ca, or check other stores like Home Hardware or Walmart.

 

[8steve88]

I
For sharpening I have a Lansky - 4 Rod Diamond Turn Box.

I have the information about knife maintenance printed out from the Buck and SOG Knives websites and have been watching various videos on YouTube about it also. When it comes to knives, I'm very much in the process of learning about them. I bought myself the Buck Vantage Select (Small) so I can learn about maintaining a knife without to much worry.

Edit: I should also be oiling the liner lock at the tip where the lock meets the tang end, correct?. Anywhere, where there's metal on metal contact and moving parts.

I use the Lansky hone systems, stone, diamond, serrated, plus a few extras and find them great for repeatable results, very easy to get polished edge, razor sharp.
I have recently bought a Lansky 4 rod turn box, the ceramic set not the diamond and I'm very impressed with it, easy to use and very fast giving excellent scary sharp results.

A pencil rubbed on the blade tang and the end of the liner or frame lock where they meet is an excellent way of smoothing the action, the graphite in the pencil lead is a good slippy substance, doesn't last long but very cheap.
For general lubrication I prefer to not use WD40, no real reason, I just don't like the stuff. Any lubricant that you have to hand will do, light machine oil like 3in1 is a good choice. I use Sentry Solutions stuff because it works and I have enough knives to justify the extra cost. I use this pen applicator and top it up from an 8oz bottle as needed. I've had the 8oz bottle for over 3 years and it's still ¾ full.
For the light oil I use a syringe with a blunt needle like the inkjet refill kits use, it gets the oil where it needs to be without getting it all over the knife, less waste as well.
Having been to Canada (Burkes Falls area, Ontario) and been into a couple of Canadian Tire stores, gobsmacked by the range of products, I'd reckon that you can find everything you need to maintain a knife in good condition.

Why not buy a few Chinese knives to practice on - Enlan and SanRenMu both make very good knives at an outstanding level of value. If you want some recommendations on stores PM me or look up SRJoben's channel on youtube - Lazy Lizard Gear. He has an ebay or amazon store as well and is great to deal with.
Good luck and enjoy the collecting/using of your knives.

 

[Dry-cell]

You're very helpful Vlad, I appreciate the recommendations.

Yesterday I sharpened my Buck Vantage Select (Small) with the Lansky 4 Rod Turn Box; I used the ceramic rods and did the two stage sharpening method. The knife was still pretty sharp when I started, I was only using it to cut rope and paper. Keeping the knife vertical, I stated off on the 20° angle and did 12 swipes (L,R), then moved to the 25° and did 12 more (L,R). After sharpening, I cleaned the blade with a paper towel which I wet with rubbing alcohol (blade only), and waited a minute. Then I proceeded to put two drops of Nano-oil on both sides of the blade where it pivots (so it goes down into the tang area) and proceeded to work the blade back and forth to get the oil into the crevices. I then placed one drop of Nano-oil on each side of the blade, rubbing it in with my nitrile glove across the whole blade surface. The last drop was placed where the liner lock meets with the tang end. At the end I took a piece of paper towel and lightly wiped the blade of any excess oil.

I'll need to get myself something to polish the edge and get it razor sharp.

 

[Dry-cell]

I've found this product for cleaning and polishing metal and it's available at several stores in my area, Nevr-Dull Magic Wadding Polish. http://www.nevrdull.com/page6.html
It's a decent price at $9.99CAN, I think I'm going to get myself some.

What's the best type of rags for wiping a blade that won't leave behind to many fibers?, is cotton a good choice?. I know that paper towel is somewhat abrasive so I want to avoid using it altogether.

My Spyderco Persistence is in transit, I may receive it today. Their facility isn't far from where I live.

Edit 01: These are available at Canadian Tire also, Outers Cotton Cleaning Patches ($4.99CAN). http://www.outers-guncare.com/products/guncare/cleaningpatches.aspx

Edit 02: I dropped by my local Canadian Tire and got both the Nevr-dull and Outers Cotton Cleaning Patches.

 

[jabe1]

Microfiber cloths are best when no residual fibers are wanted.

 

[8steve88]

Hi there Dry-cell, not so much of the Vlad or I might have to impale you next time I visit the far flung reaches of Empire Vlad's story is an interesting one. Last time I was in Canada I was staying with some friends at Burkes Falls out on RR 520 so don't sleep with the window open!
I think Nevr-dull is like Brasso over here, a wadding with cleaning solution absorbed into it, whatever works for you will be fine. I don't think you'll harm a blade without great heat.
jabe1 is right as well Microfibre cloths are excellent for cleaning knives, and cotton buds to get between the scales on an open backed knife.
Must fly.

 

[dss_777]

I can't think of any good reason not to clean your EDC pocket knives like you clean your kitchen knives: soap, water, sponge and/or pot scrubber. Dry with a dish towel or rag, and lube folder pivots/joints with fluorinated grease (Krytox, CRK special slippery stuff, etc...). Regular use should keep the blade clean.

You DO use your knives, don't you?

Disregard the above, if this is your idea of a knife maintenance station: