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Concern about the R2H I purchased..

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Orion

Flashlight Enthusiast
Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2002
Messages
1,852
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Missouri
A short while back I purchased an R2H, and I've never have been able to get it all that bright. I've directly drove it with 3 cells even, and the Blaster II I have [and even a P ranked LED flashlight I have] is brighter than this R2H. Did I get a dud? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
hmm, weird.

DD R2H should be a lot brighter than P binned lux. You prolly get a dud or you get a very good P lux /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif
 
No, I don't see that P as anything extraordinary. Now, my Blaster II does have a Q4H [if I remember correctly] in it, and it does pretty good (uses the Fraen optic). Definitely brighter than my R2H. And I believe that Wayne puts some resistance in the Blaster II's.
 
Look very closely at the board around the emitter and be sure there isn't any debris that could impede proper contact with the flashlight body. I had a TINY piece of what was probably arctic alumina oozing out from under the emitter that caused my R2H MM+ to be very dim. It doesn't take much.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Now, my Blaster II does have a Q4H [if I remember correctly] in it, and it does pretty good (uses the Fraen optic)

[/ QUOTE ]

IIRC, Wayne's Blaster II optics are of his own design, not made by Fraen. 30mm collimator lenses. The Tristar uses Fraen optics. Just FYI.
 
I guess I should insert the fact that I replaced the 30mm optic with a Fraen. Hot spot not quite as bright, but with a lot more spill. At any rate, it is brighter than the direct driven (off 3 cells) R2H. Contact points of the R2H look normal.
 
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Orion,
I hope that I don't get flamed for this, but I've had bad luck with the R2H's. I've gotten a few from a few different sources and none of them were as bright as the Q3J's I've had, also from multiple sources. I quit searching for and using the R2H's, since the Q3J's were so cheap and brighter and whiter.

That having been said, I do have to say that the R2K's that I have gotten (around 6 of them) have been a different story. They were just what I expected from an R flux. The color of the light was a bit warm, but not yellow or green and, at a given current, they've been subjectiively (dark bathroom test pointing at ceiling) brighter than the Q3J's.

The only problem I have with the R2K's is that lately, they cost about twice as much as the Q3J's have been going for.

I guess all of this is moot now, though, since the 3W's are coming out.
 
Yes, Chop, I think you are right about the moot point, what with the 3W-ers out there. And I'd be fine with the less amount of output if I hadn't spend almost the price of a U4U 5W luxeon. I think I paid $18 and then whatever shipping was after that. I've seen a lot of posts about people looking for the R2H, but I never felt comfortable selling it since the output seemed poor.

So, now what do I do with this LED?
 
Orion, how much current going to the led?
as far as suggestion goes, may i suggest to put it in some kind of back up light? something that does not require bright light to be useful?
 
I put my R2H star, from Wayne (EL), in my Blaster 1R and was disappointed, it was not any brighter than the stock N ranked star that came with 1R. Maybe the R2 needs to be driven harder, close to 1 amp to make the difference.

Bill
 
shiftd, I'm not sure what the current is, I have run it direct from 3 cells and it is lack luster. I'm not sure how to check the exact current to the LED.
 
I've gone through probably 20+ R2Hs (ink jet printed on the back of the alum PCB.) They have been inconsistant as hell as to brightness and Vf! They have ranged from MAGNIFICENT(!) to less than mediocre. I have some knowledge of ATE (Automated Test Equipment) and small character ink jet printer interface games. Given Japanese companies' typical (VERY high!) quality assurance, Lumileds seems to be falling short wrt their "binning." Just an observation.

Larry
 
Bullzeyebill,
I've driven the R2H up to 1A and compared it to the Q3J and R2K running at 700mA and they were just about the same. I did put the R2H in a M@g mod and it runs ok. I mean it's bright, but it doesn't live up to the hype.
 
I took the R2H out of my Blaster 1R today, and installed a Q3J. I did not notice any real difference in beam quality. The light is pulling 450 mA's. Do not know how much is getting to led via circuit.

Bill
 
Sorry to hear about your R2H orion. The one I ordered from Wayne a while back has turned out to be one of the whitest LED's I've ever seen. It also seems to be rather bright.
 
I ditto what Chop said, aside from the one in my 1W McModule I got from McGizmo.

As to 1W's vs. LuxIII's, here's the deal (My deal, anyway):

For applications driven at lower power (<750mA) the Q3J's will be as bright anyway. For anything over, Luxeon III's it is!
 
MR Bulk,
I am inclined to agree with you, but I have yet to get my hands on some 3W luxeons. I've been playing with the KL4 reflectors lately. I currently have a KL4 running a Q3J at ~700mA and it is impressive. I have a couple more KL4 hosts on the way. It is my intent to drive the 3W at 700mA in another KL4 and make a comparison. If my suspicions are correct, I don't think I'll see much of a difference. I also have a PR head on the way. I have a DB 1000 set aside for that. I suppose that I'll have to compare that to a M@g mod I did direct driving a Q3J at ~1A. It's the only thing I'll have for comparison.

One thing's for sure though, I am sold on reflectors.
 
Chop, yes that DB1000 will put the LuxIII right on max spec and then a difference should truly be perceptible, if you are willing/able to sacrifice a Q3J or similar 1W at the same current.
 
I have a MadMax+R2H from Wayne and I'd have to say that it is a beautifully "white" and bright led. Easily the whitest little light I have.
 
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