Convert SF G2Z to LED
- Thread starter Steevo
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greenLED
Flashaholic
:welcome: Steevo.
Most of the recommendations you get are probably going to be:
1. Get a Malkoff Devices drop-in
2. Get a SureFire drop-in
There might be other LED drop-ins that will work, but I think those are the 2 top rated ones.
Most of the recommendations you get are probably going to be:
1. Get a Malkoff Devices drop-in
2. Get a SureFire drop-in
There might be other LED drop-ins that will work, but I think those are the 2 top rated ones.
Armed_Forces
Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2008
- Messages
- 488
Welcome to CPF Steve, but you've got a problem.
You can't have "the most powerful light possible" because with light comes heat and that heat must be dissipated to have reliability/longevity. Your G2Z is made of plastic and that really sucks as far as heat conduction is concerned. LEDs are far more demanding in this area compared to incandescent bulbs. Without getting you too bogged down with the tech, I would suggest buying an aluminum bodied flashlight that would be better suited to what you have in mind.
You can't have "the most powerful light possible" because with light comes heat and that heat must be dissipated to have reliability/longevity. Your G2Z is made of plastic and that really sucks as far as heat conduction is concerned. LEDs are far more demanding in this area compared to incandescent bulbs. Without getting you too bogged down with the tech, I would suggest buying an aluminum bodied flashlight that would be better suited to what you have in mind.
sween1911
Flashlight Enthusiast
At least, if you're married to the G2Z, get an aluminum bezel with a non-melting pyrex lens to manage at least -some- of the heat and give you a heat-resistant lens.
If you're going for a drop-in, might as well spring for a Z2LED with the Surefire LED drop-in already in place.
If you're going for a drop-in, might as well spring for a Z2LED with the Surefire LED drop-in already in place.
How many lumens will my G2Z handle. And why would I get a new z2led when I can get a drop in for a lot less money. I really don't know much about lights only that they have saved my behind many times. For my purposes of regular patrol work do I need to go higher than 80 lumens?
Short answer in light of what has already been said is that the Malkoff drop-ins are widely considered the best drop-ins for Surefire. The most powerful ones are very powerful indeed but since your Surefire is made of plastic you'll have to "settle" for one of the Malkoff "low output" drop-ins that are designated with an "L" in their name so that it doesn't melt the body. The output is around 140 lumens.
The standard M60L is here:
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/m60l-low-output-to-fit-surefire-p-8.html
brad
The standard M60L is here:
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/m60l-low-output-to-fit-surefire-p-8.html
brad
Onuris
Newly Enlightened
There are many options. You can start here-
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=217252
The Malkoffs, while pricier than many others are well worth it. The SureFire drop ins are ok, but not very bright.
This is the one I use in one of my 6PLs for close range tactical use. It will absolutely blind anyone you shine it at.
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/m60w-mce-warm-p-53.html
I would also suggest upgrading to a metal head to help heat sink the LED module. Something like this-
http://www.lighthound.com//GampP-Tactical-Head-for-SureFire_p_507.html
Hope this helps, and :welcome:
Edit- oh, dummy me, I was not thinking about the polymer body. I have had my MC-E Malkoff in my G2L, but only on for short periods of time, maybe a minute or so at the most without any problems. If you are going to be using it as primarily a momentary tool for blinding bg's, and have another light for other tasks, it should not be a problem. If you want to have it on for extended periods for doing searches or such, then yes, you will want to use one of the high output modules in an all metal light.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=217252
The Malkoffs, while pricier than many others are well worth it. The SureFire drop ins are ok, but not very bright.
This is the one I use in one of my 6PLs for close range tactical use. It will absolutely blind anyone you shine it at.
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/m60w-mce-warm-p-53.html
I would also suggest upgrading to a metal head to help heat sink the LED module. Something like this-
http://www.lighthound.com//GampP-Tactical-Head-for-SureFire_p_507.html
Hope this helps, and :welcome:
Edit- oh, dummy me, I was not thinking about the polymer body. I have had my MC-E Malkoff in my G2L, but only on for short periods of time, maybe a minute or so at the most without any problems. If you are going to be using it as primarily a momentary tool for blinding bg's, and have another light for other tasks, it should not be a problem. If you want to have it on for extended periods for doing searches or such, then yes, you will want to use one of the high output modules in an all metal light.
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Onuris
Newly Enlightened
I would suggest sticking to what you are familiar with and getting an all aluminum Z2. I think they run about $95. Then put a Malkoff M60 in it. It is $55. Puts out 235+ lumens. The whole thing will cost you $150 plus shipping. I have an M60 in a Valiant head on an E2 body. It is superb, extremely bright with a good balance b/t medium throw and flood. I think you will be pleased with the Z2 and M60 combination.
Kestrel
Flashaholic
Malkoff is tops.
This thread has more nuts&bolts info.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=194879
Enjoy,
Edit: BTW the full-power M60 can run in a nitrolon host as long as it has an aluminum bezel (per Gene Malkoff), although this configuration is borderline due to heat issues.
This thread has more nuts&bolts info.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=194879
Enjoy,
Edit: BTW the full-power M60 can run in a nitrolon host as long as it has an aluminum bezel (per Gene Malkoff), although this configuration is borderline due to heat issues.
manoloco
Enlightened
i dont think the bezel will melt, but the efficiency and output will be reduced.
Leds suffer from heat generated by the junction, not the die itself (i can be wrong) thats why most quality drop ins have a heatsink, different to incans where the heat is generated by the resistance and goes out the window.
the aluminum bezel helps the heatsink dissipate heat to the outside of the flashlight body.
Low output lamps and drop ins wouldnt be a problem for your nitrolon head, but high output leds need to have a more conductive head material, otherwise the light wouldnt be reliable, and you know you need that reliability.
you can get any 6P/G2L bezel for your drop in
There is one i can recommend after trying: the malkoff devices M60 (there are good reasons almost everyone here are recommending it), or you can try a brighter one, the MC-E version, also CPF member Nailbender i making drop ins with the newer SST-50 and SST-90 leds that i would love to try!, another plus with this drop ins, is that you can use rechargables, as they take in more voltage, thus saving a bit more in the long run.
hope i made any sense.
Leds suffer from heat generated by the junction, not the die itself (i can be wrong) thats why most quality drop ins have a heatsink, different to incans where the heat is generated by the resistance and goes out the window.
the aluminum bezel helps the heatsink dissipate heat to the outside of the flashlight body.
Low output lamps and drop ins wouldnt be a problem for your nitrolon head, but high output leds need to have a more conductive head material, otherwise the light wouldnt be reliable, and you know you need that reliability.
you can get any 6P/G2L bezel for your drop in
There is one i can recommend after trying: the malkoff devices M60 (there are good reasons almost everyone here are recommending it), or you can try a brighter one, the MC-E version, also CPF member Nailbender i making drop ins with the newer SST-50 and SST-90 leds that i would love to try!, another plus with this drop ins, is that you can use rechargables, as they take in more voltage, thus saving a bit more in the long run.
hope i made any sense.
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
I think this is being made more complex than it is. I would get a M60L (LL) or P60L and call it a day. I got the P60L for my G2Z. Granted it is not the best thing going but has a nice beam and runs longer/brighter than before the upgrade. But the tint is not as good. Hard to beat an incan for that. I want a M60L or LL next and I will not change out the plastic bezel for a metal one. I like it because it is plastic and think the lower power M60s will work just fine and should still be brighter to boot.
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If you're content with the performance and output of your G2Z and incan, then the easiest solution would be to get a Malkoff M60WL (warm tint, similar to incan) or a M60L (cooler tint). The M60L would be regulated for 4 hours at 140 lumens followed by a decreasing output. The M60WL runtime will be the same but with slightly decreased output, although you probably won't notice the difference.
If you want the most "powerful" light possible then other members here can direct you to what you're looking for. Then Malkoff LED combined with G2Z can be a great back up or belt light.
Stay safe.
If you want the most "powerful" light possible then other members here can direct you to what you're looking for. Then Malkoff LED combined with G2Z can be a great back up or belt light.
Stay safe.
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Solscud007
Flashlight Enthusiast
I think you guys are forgetting that the G2Z has a pyrex lens. G2 have lexan. even though the G2Z has a polymer head, the lens is pyrex.
I don't think any of us that are not police officers can tell you how much light you need for patrol work but if I was going to stake my behind on a drop-in, it would definitely be a Malkoff. Surefire makes great lights, but their LED drop-in pales in comparison to the Malkoffs. They are built like tanks and are designed to give a constant amount of output for a given amount of time.
You still have options to sort through with Malkoff, mainly light output, run time, light pattern, and tint. The more light a drop-in puts out the shorter its run time (no surprise there). Malkoff drop-ins are available in a "normal" light pattern (similar to an incandescent) or a floodlight pattern that doesn't shine as far (indicated by a 'F' in the name). As for tint, LED lighting looks "cooler" than incandescent, that is, colors will look washed out to a certain degree. Malkoff drop-ins are available in regular or warm tints. The warm tint drop-ins are rated at lower output by testing equipment, but your eyes probably won't register a great difference. If you want the best color rendition, stick with the Malkoff drop-ins with a 'W' in their name.
As others have said, the plastic body of the G2Z cannot dissipate heat as well as an aluminum body light. If you stick with the plastic body, the greatest output drop-in you can use continuously is the M60L (or M60WL for the warm version). Stronger drop-ins will overheat in a few minutes and that can damage the drop-in. If you switch to an aluminum body light (the Z2 is the aluminum equivalent of the G2Z), there are two brighter drop-ins to consider:
I hope this helps.
You still have options to sort through with Malkoff, mainly light output, run time, light pattern, and tint. The more light a drop-in puts out the shorter its run time (no surprise there). Malkoff drop-ins are available in a "normal" light pattern (similar to an incandescent) or a floodlight pattern that doesn't shine as far (indicated by a 'F' in the name). As for tint, LED lighting looks "cooler" than incandescent, that is, colors will look washed out to a certain degree. Malkoff drop-ins are available in regular or warm tints. The warm tint drop-ins are rated at lower output by testing equipment, but your eyes probably won't register a great difference. If you want the best color rendition, stick with the Malkoff drop-ins with a 'W' in their name.
As others have said, the plastic body of the G2Z cannot dissipate heat as well as an aluminum body light. If you stick with the plastic body, the greatest output drop-in you can use continuously is the M60L (or M60WL for the warm version). Stronger drop-ins will overheat in a few minutes and that can damage the drop-in. If you switch to an aluminum body light (the Z2 is the aluminum equivalent of the G2Z), there are two brighter drop-ins to consider:
M60: noticeably brighter than the M60L and with longer throw (the distance the light will shine). Also available in a warm tint.
M60 MC-E: much brighter than the M60 but with a floodlight pattern (much shorter throw). Also available in a warm tint.
The Malkoff website has detailed information for all their drop-ins. The stronger drop-ins, M60 and M60 MC-E, have warnings regarding use in plastic bodied lights. Finally, don't feel bad if you feel overwhelmed since there is a lot to consider but that also means you have a lot of flexibility available to you.
I hope this helps.
SimpleIsGood229
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2007
- Messages
- 160
Firstly, thank you for your service, and :welcome:
If I were in your shoes right now, I would rank my various Surefire-Malkoff (definitely go with Malkoff) options like this:
1. Buy a Malkoff M60 (235 lumens) and drop it into regular incandescent Z2. Keep the G2Z as a backup light.
1(a). Buy an aluminum bezel for your G2Z, and drop in the above-mention M60.
NOTE: Option #1 vs. #1(a) depends upon how long you continuously run the light. If it's more than, say, ten minutes or so, I would go with option #1 to ensure the LED doesn't suffer damage.
2. Buy an aluminum bezel and a Malkoff M60L (140 lumens). The M60L is just fine with plastic body/metal bezel.
3. Buy a Malkoff M60LL (80 lumens), and drop it into your G2Z as-is. The M60LL is fine in an all-plastic light.
Since you're accustomed to incandescent, I suggest getting a warm-tint ("W") Malkoff drop-in. They put out slightly fewer lumens than the standard ones, but I think the tint will more than make up for that.
Let us know what you decide--Malkoff or not.
If I were in your shoes right now, I would rank my various Surefire-Malkoff (definitely go with Malkoff) options like this:
1. Buy a Malkoff M60 (235 lumens) and drop it into regular incandescent Z2. Keep the G2Z as a backup light.
1(a). Buy an aluminum bezel for your G2Z, and drop in the above-mention M60.
NOTE: Option #1 vs. #1(a) depends upon how long you continuously run the light. If it's more than, say, ten minutes or so, I would go with option #1 to ensure the LED doesn't suffer damage.
2. Buy an aluminum bezel and a Malkoff M60L (140 lumens). The M60L is just fine with plastic body/metal bezel.
3. Buy a Malkoff M60LL (80 lumens), and drop it into your G2Z as-is. The M60LL is fine in an all-plastic light.
Since you're accustomed to incandescent, I suggest getting a warm-tint ("W") Malkoff drop-in. They put out slightly fewer lumens than the standard ones, but I think the tint will more than make up for that.
Let us know what you decide--Malkoff or not.
Actually, I think you will find the M60L is fine in an "all plastic" light. From Malkoff:
M60L (Low Output) to fit Surefire
This is the Malkoff Devices Low Ouput version of the P60 style dropin with solid brass heatsink construction. This design utilizes a Cree 8 degree optic. The optic has a very nice balance between throw and spill. It is an outstanding room lighter and short to medium spotter. It was designed specifically for use in SureFire 6P, 6Z, C2, M2 and G2 flashlights. It may or may not fit other models. The input voltage is 3.8 - 9 volts. Below 3.8 volts it will drop out of regulation and run direct drive. The output is 140+/- lumens. The current draw is approximately 350ma at 6 volts. The runtime is approximately 4 1/2 hours on 2 CR123 primary batteries. It will easily illuminate objects at 150+ feet. The LED is a Cree XRE 7090.
A fitting ring is required if used with a shock-absorbing head (ie M2).
Note: This mod will not work in Wolf Eyes Lights.
WARNING: This light is capable of causing eye damage at close range. Please use the light responsibly!!!
Note: This drop-in module is intended to operate for extended periods in metal or plastic light.
Hope this helps.
M60L (Low Output) to fit Surefire
This is the Malkoff Devices Low Ouput version of the P60 style dropin with solid brass heatsink construction. This design utilizes a Cree 8 degree optic. The optic has a very nice balance between throw and spill. It is an outstanding room lighter and short to medium spotter. It was designed specifically for use in SureFire 6P, 6Z, C2, M2 and G2 flashlights. It may or may not fit other models. The input voltage is 3.8 - 9 volts. Below 3.8 volts it will drop out of regulation and run direct drive. The output is 140+/- lumens. The current draw is approximately 350ma at 6 volts. The runtime is approximately 4 1/2 hours on 2 CR123 primary batteries. It will easily illuminate objects at 150+ feet. The LED is a Cree XRE 7090.
A fitting ring is required if used with a shock-absorbing head (ie M2).
Note: This mod will not work in Wolf Eyes Lights.
WARNING: This light is capable of causing eye damage at close range. Please use the light responsibly!!!
Note: This drop-in module is intended to operate for extended periods in metal or plastic light.
Hope this helps.
Most powerful?.... Malkoff M60 MC-E.
LINK:
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/m60-mce-p-52.html
(They tend to sell out quickly, but Gene should have more soon).
EDIT:
In keeping with what others have already posted, yeah; get an aluminum bezel for your G2Z if you're going to use an LED drop-in that's bright as Hell!
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Yoda4561
Flashlight Enthusiast
If you run the light for more than 15 minutes at a time, the M60L or M60WL are the easy answers. They will be a smidge brighter than the P60, similar throw but more spill outside the central beam, and run over 4x as long. These low output Malkoff dropins have no heat issues in a plastic surefire body. If you run the light less than 15 minutes at a time, a full power M60 is not out of the question. The only issue is if you run it for longer the module has nowhere for the heat to go, the heat will build up inside and the module will cook itself (the flashlight body and bezel will be fine) . Forget any MCE drop-ins unless you just flash the light on for less than a minute, they produce far more heat than an XRE dropin.
