CR123 question

[pinecone]

I'm purchasing a 2X123 tactical light that really won't be used that frequently as I use my rechargeable (Eneloops) 2XAA lights for everyday use.

Knowing that "shelf life" can mean different things, how long can I expect the CR123's to still be usable? I'd like to order several packs of Sanyos to save on local pricing, but don't want to stock up too many years worth if they are going to die in package on me.

I'm really not interested in the RCR's, just need some good batteries that will be there if needed.

 

[VidPro]

get enough for today tomorrow and an emergency, but myself i wouldnt overdo it, fresh batteries of all sorts do better, and if you get a freaking CASE , and use 4 and the others sit there on a shelf for 10 years, they will work, but how well, you wont know till then.
how long it lasts depends on the quality of the cell, i would expect an energyser to be about the same in 10 years, but its not really the best battery for capacity now

if they say 10, i say 5 , and things will probably work out. they are no less than amasing in shelf life, but they are volitile items, things change, everything is being made Cheeper, and ya just never know for sure, then its to late.

 

[Black Rose]

CR123A cells have a 10 year shelf life from the date of manufacture and have an extremely low self discharge rate.

Here is a post by one of the members here who knows a thing or two about batteries regarding CR123A storage:

There's no need to store CR123A cells in your fridge to reduce self-discharge. It's practically non-existent at room temperature.

 

[Marduke]

Actually a 2xAA light would have better shelf life. AA lithium primaries are still good after 15-20 years, and are somewhat more tolerant to temperature extremes.

 

[cave dave]

Try to buy the American made CR123's. Also don't just go for the cheapest price (aka ebay) as counterfits do exist.

I have had Chinese CR123's lose half there capacity in a year just sitting on the shelf.

 

[cave dave]

Also consider lights that don't have a self drain because of electronic switching. And always lock the light out so it can't turn itself on accidentally.

 

[The Beacon]

When you guys talk about self-discharge, is there a difference between batteries sitting on a shelf, and batteries sitting in a torch switched off? In other words, if I leave my torch switched off for 10 years with the batteries inside, can I expect to get the 'shelf life' performance from them?

 

[VidPro]

When you guys talk about self-discharge, is there a difference between batteries sitting on a shelf, and batteries sitting in a torch switched off? In other words, if I leave my torch switched off for 10 years with the batteries inside, can I expect to get the 'shelf life' performance from them?

if the torch fully disconnects from the batteries. some electronic circuits have parasitic drain, its still good with any long term IN light storage to do a lockout, or insulate the batteries. even something like a drop of water in the switch can cause a parasitic drain also.

 

[The Beacon]

Sorry to go on about it. But I want to clarify this, as I plan to use my torch infrequently. When you say the torch should fully disconect from the batteries, does that means the batteries shouldn't come into contact with any metal parts? Does two batteries touching each other draw current?

Let's say one wrapped a primary AA battery in aluminium foil and left it on the shelf. Would it lose more current than a battery stored in a plastic container?

Thanks for the advice!

 

[VidPro]

as long as the one end isnt connecting to the other end, it is a "open" circuit, so the only flow of energy is through the air, which when connected in series there is a slightly higher voltage potential that can pass through the air.
can you say Totally insignificant

disconnect, hmm, a MAg does a full disconnect because of the style of switch, but get it wet and it isnt anymore. long click lights usually do a full disconnect, lights that you just bump a nice electronic soft switch, might have parasitic draw. but again it still depends on the moisture, or any stuff in there (say like a greace that conducts tiny ammounts) that could complete the circuit.
Lockout, is the words they been using for unscrewing the tailcap untill the battery is fully disconnected, so no mater what could possibly be making a very tiny slight connection, the battery is not connected itself.

gee wrapped in aluminum foil? for what purpose? as long as it doesnt touch the ends, i think you should test that, cant be sure , mabey it stops the aliens?

 

[The Beacon]

as long as the one end isnt connecting to the other end, it is a "open" circuit, so the only flow of energy is through the air, which when connecting there is a slightly higher voltage potential that can pass through the air.
can you say Totally insignificant

gee wrapped in aluminum foil? for what purpose? as long as it doesnt touch the ends, i think you should test that, cant be sure , mabey it stops the aliens?

:lolsign:

 

[Marduke]

Let's say one wrapped a primary AA battery in aluminium foil and left it on the shelf. Would it lose more current than a battery stored in a plastic container?

No, that would actually cause a fire...

 

[pinecone]

Thanks for all the quick responses, that's exactly what info I was looking for. I know that there's tons of posts on here about CR123's but I just need to know the basics.

The place I'm going to send an order to only stocks Sanyo and at a fair price. I'm not going to buy enough CR123's to warrant paying shipping from another source.

As far as I know Sanyo is not a China battery and may not be the "best" performer among the current crop, but feel it will work in my application.

If any one can point me to some recent performance reviews of CR123's, I'd appreciate. I will try the search function also.

 

[Juggernaut]

No, that would actually cause a fire...

.