Cree CXA2011 LED, Driver options

Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

mds82

Enlightened
Joined
May 1, 2006
Messages
622
City & State/Province
Connecticut
With the new Cree CXA2011 LED as an option for DIY replacement lighting, what options are there for drivers? This LED operates ~40v 270mA and up to 1000mA. Are there any good driver options for this?
 
Any luck with the module yet? I ordered a couple of these to play with, and am looking for driver options now.
 
for AC, it looks like meanwell drivers or any other driver that looks decently made, for DC input, taskled's hyperboost looks suited.
 
for AC, it looks like meanwell drivers or any other driver that looks decently made

Any recommendation on the series? I ordered one of the Digikey kits with the RECOM unit, but want to get a bigger supply to power 3-4 of the CXA2011 units.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
Any recommendation on the series? I ordered one of the Digikey kits with the RECOM unit, but want to get a bigger supply to power 3-4 of the CXA2011 units.

Unfortunately, I havent had a chance to play with any AC drivers, I hope to in the future, but most of the drivers I see output <60V to stay classified as low voltage per NEC, so running the LEDS in series isnt an option. The HLG-185-48B can do 1.95-3.9A out, at upto 48V, so you could parallel 4 of them, with low value balancing resistors. See how much your Vfs vary and get a resistor to help equalize them.
 

Has anyone tried this kit? The CXA2011 documentation says that typical Vf at 500mA is 42 volts. The RECOM RACD-500 supply lists maximum voltage at 40 volts and maximum power at 20W. 42 volts *0.5A = 21Watts. Does the driver drop current until it hits 20Watts (at about 475mA) or does it limit voltage to 40V (which might require as little as 275mA according to the CXA2011 voltage versus current curve)? The kit price seems good, but the 56 volt maximum output of the 350mA version of the driver would seem to be a better fit?
 

Has anyone tried this kit? The driver data page says that it is 20Watts max and 40 volts max. The CXA2011 data pages say that the typical Vf at 500mA is 42 volts which equals 21Watts. Does the driver cut current to get under 20Watts (about 475 mA) or does it limit voltage (if it limits the voltage to 40V, the current could drop as low as 275mA)? The kit price seems attractive, but it seems as if the 350mA version of the driver with a maximum voltage of 56V might be a better match.
 
I have a couple of them, the 3000K and the 2700K, and like them. Haven't decided what I am going to with them yet. I retrofitted one of them into an Ikea light that I had sitting around, and it looks OK. It is quite bright.

Also installed 5 - Cree LR6-DR1000 2700K recessed lighting fixtures in my kitchen last week, and am loving the improvement. They are a bit too bright at night time, but with a dimmer, they work perfectly.
 
Has anyone tried this kit? The driver data page says that it is 20Watts max and 40 volts max. The CXA2011 data pages say that the typical Vf at 500mA is 42 volts which equals 21Watts. Does the driver cut current to get under 20Watts (about 475 mA) or does it limit voltage (if it limits the voltage to 40V, the current could drop as low as 275mA)? The kit price seems attractive, but it seems as if the 350mA version of the driver with a maximum voltage of 56V might be a better match.

I just tried my kit out, and you are correct the power supply is not the best match. Mine delivers ~370mA @43Vdc with the included LED, when i hook the led straight up to my power supply set for 500mA the led is noticeably brighter.
 
I just tried my kit out, and you are correct the power supply is not the best match. Mine delivers ~370mA @43Vdc with the included LED, when i hook the led straight up to my power supply set for 500mA the led is noticeably brighter.

Thanks for the feedback. At least you got more than the 350mA of the next lower current driver. With a small wall wort (e.g., I have one for a phone that is 7 volts DC and 900mA) added in series it should be possible to get the 500mA driver back to regulating in current controlled mode at the full 500mA. Just make sure that the added supply is a constant voltage supply capable of more than 500mA. Having 2 supplies in the circuit would probably hurt efficiency, but having the full 500mA would be nice for the brightness.
 
I have 2x RECOM RACD20-500 drivers. Both work well BUT they buzz and you can hear the buzzing across the room. RECOM says this is not normal and I may try to RMA both units.

I also wish the driver had a dimmer...
 
Meanwell ELN60-48 can run about 3 of them paralell at 430ma or 2 at 650ma. I've been seriously considering them for the fact that it appears you don't need secondary optics for wide angle room illumination. Factor in losses from making an XML more eye safe and not so reflective off surfaces, the CXA starts to look attractive... I'm tempted to order some next LED order.
 
Has anyone tried this kit? The driver data page says that it is 20Watts max and 40 volts max. The CXA2011 data pages say that the typical Vf at 500mA is 42 volts which equals 21Watts. Does the driver cut current to get under 20Watts (about 475 mA) or does it limit voltage (if it limits the voltage to 40V, the current could drop as low as 275mA)? The kit price seems attractive, but it seems as if the 350mA version of the driver with a maximum voltage of 56V might be a better match.


I have a supplier who has DC boost convertors which have a input of 12 v and a output of 10 to 60volts at 2 amps so these CXA2011 can be run on 12 v systems if wanting more details contact me: raduthie [at] xtra.co.nz
 
So can I just run these things off a 12v home lighting circuit? I mean the 9v CXA1304 version does that range and I believe the typical dimmer regulates voltage. The only dilemma I see is that these things shouldn't be pushed past 11v which is unfortunate the CXA1304 won't fit as a drop in replacement for an MR16 socket.

My point is that there are drop in replacement LED bulbs for the MR16 12v type. I don't believe they have any electronics in the bulb...am I missing something?
 
Back
Top