I bought an Ultrafire wf-016 mc-e
Since it's rated up to 4.2v, can't I skip the (bad) electronics and wire it directly to my ultrafire 3.7v 18650 battery?
I ordered the wf-016, its electronics lasted about a minute, returned, replacement lasted 30 min, haven't yet returned for another I wouldn't trust.
The emitter looks like http://img.ledsmagazine.com/objects/news/5/10/25/CreeMC-E.jpg but is wired parallel: 4 pins soldered together on one side, four on another, rated So why not run directly for one on/off mode? I care more about reliability than the dimming and flash options it had (for spare bike light which can bounce around a bit.) Any danger to light or battery?
I know next to nothing about electronics which may be more than ultrafire. I believe in keep it simple..., what could be simpler than direct drive? Thinking of a spare bike light so durability's important.
If direct wiring is feasible, any advice on wiring? Thanks for your expert edification.
Since it's rated up to 4.2v, can't I skip the (bad) electronics and wire it directly to my ultrafire 3.7v 18650 battery?
I ordered the wf-016, its electronics lasted about a minute, returned, replacement lasted 30 min, haven't yet returned for another I wouldn't trust.
The emitter looks like http://img.ledsmagazine.com/objects/news/5/10/25/CreeMC-E.jpg but is wired parallel: 4 pins soldered together on one side, four on another, rated So why not run directly for one on/off mode? I care more about reliability than the dimming and flash options it had (for spare bike light which can bounce around a bit.) Any danger to light or battery?
I know next to nothing about electronics which may be more than ultrafire. I believe in keep it simple..., what could be simpler than direct drive? Thinking of a spare bike light so durability's important.
If direct wiring is feasible, any advice on wiring? Thanks for your expert edification.